“Autumn is a second spring when every leaf is a flower”---Albert Camus

Every year I make the trek over the Continental Divide, 42 miles of which snakes through Rocky Mountain National park.

​There are several trails used to accomplish this mission but on Sunday of Labor Day weekend I chose to hike with three friends from Bear Lake to the Green Mountain Trailhead via the Tonahutu Trail, 15 miles one way. My husband was designated to pick us up at the destination trailhead.   ​

The summit of Flattop, 12,324 feet, is always perfect  for a second breakfast.

​Sweeping views of the Never Summer Range to the west were striking,  but also melancholic as no winter snow was left, due to drought conditions. ​

Soon, we approached the intersection of the Tonahutu Trail and North Inlet Trail.   We headed down the Tonahutu to the north and west over Ptarmigan Pass.  Sightings of marmots, ptarmigans, and watching for elk and bighorn sheep absorbed us. ​

​The junction for Green Mountain Trail head came into view, we were only 1.9 miles to the awaiting car.  

But wait, what?

Right then we got a text that the Park will be closing Trail Ridge Road at 3:00p.m due to heavy smoke from the Cameron Fire to the north.   This was to be our route on the drive back to Estes Park!
 
I checked the time -  2:45p.m. - and we hiked out a little unsettled thinking about the four-hour ride back, which usually takes 45-minutes when Trail Ridge Road is open (it has since reopened).   We happily agreed to relish our day, including the long ride home.   BE PREPARED you never know what will happen in the mountains.


OPTIONS
If you still feel ambitious after hiking over from Bear Lake instead of heading to the Green Mountain Trail Head, you can continue south along Big Meadows on the well maintained Tonahutu trail to Grand Lake.

Here the Tonahutu Creek snakes down all the way to Grand Lake and beyond. This adds another 4.5 miles. This section is very showy in autumn with golden grasses, shrubs in red colors, lodgepole pine forests, gold aspens, and the chance of wildlife sightings.   Encounter a little history by passing the Harbison Ditch as it no doubt helped irrigate the Harbison sisters homestead in 1895.
 
Another option I have taken for a mellow day hike, not involving crossing the Continental Divide, is to hike this section as a 5.8-mile one-way hike with a car shuttle starting at Green Mountain Trail Head  ending at either the Kaweeneche Visitor Center or Grand Lake.   Or approximately 12 miles round trip.  The entire way hiking is in rhythm with Tonahutu creek. 
The possibilities in Rocky are endless.    
 

NOTE:  Last week I hiked  Tonaahutu Creek./Big Meadows trail to Grand lake from Green  Mountain Trailhead and back.   Earlier in the week  there was an “wind event” resulting in  MANY down trees across the trail.  The downfall increases the difficulty of hiking this section.  Be sure to appreciate trail crews as they are working on clearing these trails.

This hike was done several weeks ago, on September 2. Before the area received several days of hot, dry winds that blew up the Cameron Peak fire and eventually closed Trail Ridge Road due to heavy smoke conditions. And before the dramatic change in the weather that dropped temperatures by nearly 50 degrees overnight and kept Trail Ridge Road closed for many more days with as much as 16" of snow. Conditions can change very quickly in the mountains.
 
​I left the Bear Lake parking in the dark with other hikers wearing headlamps to see their way on the trail. My destination on this day was Powell Peak via the Flattop Mtn trail and across the tundra, rounding the backside of the many peaks that make up The Front Range. Because of the extended amount of time cruising above treeline, it was important that there was a zero percent chance of thunderstorms in the forcast.

I started up the Flattop Mtn trail like a race horse out of the starting gate, but then settled into a steady pace as I rose in elevation with the sun.

I worked my way around the western flank of Hallett Peak until I could see Longs Peak and Taylor Peak, two prominent landmarks. I needed to go around Taylor Peak to get to Powell Peak, so I headed for a low spot to the right of Taylor and kept that spot in my sights while I navigated the terrain.

After passing Otis Peak, a visible trail appeared that led to the top of Andrews Glacier. I took a peek down to The Loch Vale before continuing on my tundra traverse. 

Once I reached the high point on the shoulder of Taylor Peak, I found I was still not far enough around to see my direction to Powell Peak yet. But I was able to see across the valley to the southwest at the dramatic range, with Andrews Peak to the the left and Ptarmigan Mtn to the right, and I could also see the two lakes, Nakoni and Nanita, that sit below them.

The actual summit of Powell Peak is hard to make out. It is not as prominent as many of the other surrounding peaks are, especially from the back side. And because of the rising elevations, some things are hidden. I kept an eye on a really prominent peak which at first I thought was neighboring McHenrys Peak. But later I realized that Powell Peak was hiding McHenrys Peak and what I was looking at all along was Chiefs Head Peak.

It wasn't until I was on the actual summit of Powell Peak that I realized my error. Right in front of me, sticking up like a sore thumb, was the backside of McHenrys Peak between Longs Peak and Chiefs Head Peak behind it. The topography can be confusing, and very dramatic when trekking across the tundra. 

At 13,208 ft, Powell Peak is slightly lower than McHenrys Peak by only 19ft, but higher than the more prominent Taylor Peak by 55ft. But the distance to get to Powell Peak is considerable, and I began to make my way back. It took me six hours to reach the summit of Powell Peak from the Bear Lake Parking lot, but only four and a half hours on the return.

This summer, I have enjoyed some spectacular hiking into the backcountry areas of Park. Last week, I changed things up a bit and visited a variety of  shorter hikes. I began my day by taking a walk on the tundra.

I entered the Park at sunrise, the first rays of the sun lighting up the clouds that were forming. By the time I reached Many Parks Curve, the sunrise was putting on quite a show. Note: click on each photo for a larger image.

The Tundra Communities trail begins at the Rock Cut pullout on Trail Ridge Road, at an elevation of 12,090', according to a sign posted on one of the restrooms at the parking lot. The 1/2 mile trail is paved and there are not any steps on the trail. The first part of the trail ramps up a ways before leveling off. Of course, there are mountain peak views in every direction.

On this day in late August, the sky was fairly overcast. But the sun found a break in the clouds and shone down on the Never Summer Range to the west. Looking to the northwest, the smoke from the Cameron Peak fire was laying low and filling the valleys below.

Along the trail, there are interesting rock formations of dark colored schist that originated at the bottom of a sea. The lighter colored granite pushed in as magma. The granite erodes more quickly than the schist and forms forming mushroom shaped rocks.

The trail offers the hiker plenty of informative interpretive signs where one can stop and rest while taking in the view.

The best time to see the tundra in full bloom is mid summer. But the tundra is rich in autumn colors right now and it's not as crowded with other hikers. 

The trail dead ends at a high point of rock formations. If you scramble up the rocks, you will find a memorial plaque Roger Toll, the first superintendent for this Park. You can read more on the Park history here and on Trail Ridge Road here.

The site of the old McGraw Ranch still has buildings, including one that has been standing since 1871, the original homestead cabin of Harry Farrar.  Others were built between 1884-1887, and most of the guest cabins were built between 1935-1936 by Frank and John McGraw (for more history of the ranch's early days, see part one of The Cow Creek Trail, published last week). ​

The first part of the hike is a beautiful meadow that climbs a bit before it wanders back to Cow Creek.  For most of the hike, you can hear its rushing or trickling waters, something I enjoy very much. It's so relaxing.
​
I needed a bit of calming down because I was anxious about taking this hike by myself, the first one with a distance of more 2 miles I've taken on my own since my back surgery. And there was no one else on the trail that early in the morning. ​

Every rustle in the trees had me looking - this is bear country after all!  It's also a hunting ground for mountain lions, although it's very rare to see these creatures anywhere near humans.  
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A bit further down the road comes another trail crossing, this time giving you the option to turn left to hook up with the Lumpy Ridge Trail to visit Balanced Rock and Gem Lake. ​

When I passed through the meadows again, the butterflies were flitting all around me, enjoying the late-August sunshine.

It took me about five hours to do six miles roundtrip but remember, I stopped to take many pictures along the way.  It was worth it and I needed it. It was the first morning without any smoke haze after two days of good rain.  The air was clear, the sky was blue and the morning light was perfect.  Happy hiking, everyone! ​

In the south end of Rocky Mountain National Park, as part of the Wild Basin trail system, there are a series of lakes that begin at the Finch Lake trailhead and can give the dayhiker some options on a trail that is not too crowded, but the destinations are all longer hikes.

The trail actually loses some elevation on the last strech to Finch Lake. There are a couple of good rock spots along the eastern shoreline to enjoy this peaceful lake.

Finch Lake is a comfortable distance for many dayhikers, and well worth the effort. But for another 2.5 miles, you can also bag Pear Lake. The trail skirts around the north side of Finch Lake, then drops a bit more to a footbridge crossing Cony Creek. There's not too much elevation gain between the two lakes and the trail is pleasant.

This trial is not an official trail of the Park. It is not maintained and there will be some downfall to climb over, for example. If the dayhiker is going to travel here, you will want to plan on a much longer day. After passing the lower of the three Hutcheson Lakes, the trail can be difficult to keep track of, so it's necessary to have an awareness of your surroundings. Having a topographical map and knowing how to read it is also a good idea. This is a pristine alpine environment, so travel carefully. Follow the small trail to reach the Middle Hutcheson Lake.

The three Hutcheson Lakes each sit on a self with the lower lake still below treeline, the middle lake in the subalpine and the upper lake right at treeline. Carefully navigate over rock outcrops that look over Middle Hutcheson Lake to reach into the upper basin and Upper Hutcheson Lake.

The upper Cony Basin begins to come into full view as the dayhiker approaches Upper Hutcheson Lake. Cony Pass that leads over to the Bluebird Lake basin to the north, can be seen in the distance. Ogalalla Peak can also be seen now.

On our day, we decided to travel up to the base of Coney Pass. The pass is steep with lots of loose scree. 

We reach our high point standing below Ogalalla Peak. The summit, 13,138', is part of the Continental Divide and is a high point marking the south boarder line of the National Park. 

by Barb Boyer Buck

Imagine it's 150 years ago (I do this all the time).  Imagine you have made the long trek via horseback to the beautiful mountain valley of Estes Park.  At that time, Colorado was a territory of the US and the land was declared "public" by the Homestead Act.

Every piece of the valley that is not already developed is open for homesteading.  All you have to do is pick out your 160-acre parcel, "improve" the property, and pay a small registration fee.

Put yourself in that scene.  What is your personal perspective?  Are you a child, part of a family looking for a new home?  Are you sick of the towns where you live and want some peace and quiet in the Colorado mountains?  Do you fancy yourself a wilderness man or woman, fiercely independent and resourceful? You're itching to live off the land and figure things out for yourself.  Whatever your perspective, I'm sure you'll agree.  The homesteading narrative is romantic and adventurous.

Let's say you’re a big game hunting guide and you marvel at the wide-open fields below you as you crest that final hill over Estes Park. It's  the late summer of 1871, and the basin looks mostly dry, with only the snake of the Big Thompson River slicing through it (there was no lake back then).  You notice the prime spots along the river were already claimed.
​
Now, suppose you ride north in the valley, where the mountains meet the meadows and the elk are plentiful.  Finally, you see it.  The Cow Creek Valley. ​

Suddenly, I found context in past events. I studied possible motivations for historical figures.  I found similarities between myself and everyone who came before me.  I can imagine myself into the mindset of someone in Estes Park, 150 years ago.  In the case of the Cow Creek Valley, I can imagine the stirring excitement of the situation, being given just enough help through the Homestead Act to get myself started in something entirely my own. 

In reality, Estes Park had long been the hunting grounds for native Americans, a summer stop on their nomadic routes.  Just because a place had never been permanently settled, doesn't mean anyone should claim it.  It had been a public, shared, space for ten thousand years before the homesteaders arrived.
​
Several buildings near the original homestead near Cow Creek were finished in 1887 after the property was developed with its sale in 1884.  The barn, the lodge, the bunkhouse, and two additional cabins started this valley along another journey.  It provided water for cows and the family that lived there. I imagine an idyllic scene, exactly how you'd imagine what a Little-House-on-the-Prairie homestead would be like here, in its perfect riparian ecosystem. Bounteous and cozy. ​

I'm an environmentalist, so I understand the damage human development has affected on our ecosystem, but the feeling of adventure, possibility, and excitement is intoxicating. 

John and Irene McGraw, grandparents of the surviving McGraw lineage, bought the ranch outright in 1909. John set it up so there could never be any debt on it.  There was no way any of his kin was going to gamble with the family home by using it as leverage in other concerns.  This pioneer tradition of establishing family ranches can be found in nearly every rural town, including those close to a National Park.
​
Frank and his brother John, sons of the senior McGraws, turned the place into a dude ranch in 1936 by building additional cabins, eager to get in on the action so many in the area had at the time by taking in lodgers.  ​

The trail to Ypsilon Lake is a quiet trail traveling up to a fine alpine lake. This can be a casual dayhike if not in a rush. However, with careful route finding, there can be adventure opportunity by trekking beyond the lake. 

The hike begins at the Lawn Lake trailhead at the west end of Horseshoe Park.

The initial trail rises off the broad valley floor on the northern side with occasional views of Endovalley and Sundance Peak.

The trail then rises quickly again and maintains a steady uphill pace as it meanders through lodgepole pine. Eventually, there's a welcoming view of Ypsilon Mountain through the trees. From here, the trail drops to the lake.

When the trail reaches Ypsilon Lake, the views are to the east. There is a non-established 'fisherman's trail' that skirts along the south shore of the lake and a little careful navigation along the eastern shore brings one around to views of Mt Chiquita. The surrounding terrain blocks the view of Ypsilon Mt from the lake.

At the inlet to Ypsilon Lake, there a small footbridge and a path that leads to a beautiful waterfall, a must see if traveling to the lake. My hiking partner and I decided to further. Again, with careful navigation up steep terrain, an unmaintained trail leads up to the spectacular Spectacle Lakes, surrounded by rocky terrain, at the very foot of Ypsilon Mountain, now on full display. 

After having a break, and considering working our way to the upper lake, with still plenty of summer sun, we opted for a different route. The Spectacle Lakes are embraced by two long named ridges that come off the summit of Ypsilon Mtn like two arms, popular in the alpine climbing world, the Donner Ridge on the south and the Blitzen Ridge to the north. After careful examination, we picked a route on the far east end of Blitzen Ridge to traverse into the Fay Lakes region.

We were treated by a very brief visit by this little critter, either an ermine or a long-tailed weasel. It was hard to get a good look at it because it moved around so quick, and then disappeared. 

There are numerous small waterfalls between the upper and middle Fay Lakes. Blitzen Ridge of Ypsilon Mtn is in the background. We navigated quickly down to the Middle Fay Lake and then picked up a faint trail marked by rock cairns back to Ypsilon Lake. 

Scenic mountain peaks are the hallmark of Rocky Mountain National Park. But reaching the summit of many peaks can be challenging if not impossible for the dayhiker. However, with a little uphill effort, the Chapin, Chiquita, & Ypsilon trail off of the Old Fall River Road affords three summits within easy reach. 

As we begin our early morning hike, a Clark's Nutcracker calls up the sun.

We ascend into the alpine with the trail leading us into the morning sunlight.

We are stopped by a White-tailed Ptarmigan standing watch along the trail, then suddenly notice five little chicks crossing the trail. While we watch them wander off, we look back and see Lava Cliffs off of Trail Ridge Road in the distance.

It would be easy to walk right by the side trial that leads up Mount Chapin. From the summit of this lowest of the three peaks (12,454'), we could see Horseshoe Park and Deer Mountain to the east. We backtrack back down to the main trail and continue up Mount Chiquita. Looking across to Mt Chapin, we can see tiny hikers on the summit.

The trail up Mount Chiquita can be a little difficult to keep track of, but there are rock cairns marking the way up. This is a steep and sustained part of the hike requiring numerous stops to catch our breath and take in the surroundings. 

We look down on Lake Chiquita from the summit of Mount Chiquita (13,069') and take a much needed snack break while enjoying the 360 degree views. To the novice geologist, these exposed rocks on the summit appear to be sedimentary layers, perhaps from an old ocean bottom, that was uplifted over the millennium.

We enjoy the patches of alpine wildflowers bringing color to  the otherwise sparse landscape while we climb up the last of the three peak series, Ypsilon Mountain (13,514'). It felt like a lot of effort to drop elevation off of Mt Chiquita and then climb back up Ypsilon Mtn. But gazing down on the Spectacle Lakes made the effort worth it. 

After our return decent off of Ypsilon Mtn, we skirt below Mt Chiquita. There may have been a trail crossing here, but we didn't see it and we carefully made our way back, rock hopping where we could, before reconnecting with the trail.

Journeying back on the trail across the tundra, and feeling satisfied with our accomplishment, we marveled at the surrounding rocky mountain vistas. After finishing our drive up Old Fall River Road, we stop off at the Lava Cliffs pull over on Trail Ridge Road and gazed upon the three peaks we had just climbed. What a fantastic way to spend our morning!

The trail passes by and in front of numerous mountain peaks and you can use numerous rest stops with a map figuring out what all the names of the peaks are. 

​At about the halfway mark, the trail begins its drop into the Tonahutu Creek drainage and back into the trees. 

"Little and Big Dutch Creeks remind us of eight Germans who formed a clique in Lulu City, as did groups of Irishmen and Swedes. Each nationality had a nickname, the Germans being known as Dutch. One night the Dutchmen, home from a spree at Grand Lake, started a free-for-all in Lulu. When the smoke cleared away, the townspeople found much damage, including a broken arm on a respectable woman. Blaming the Dutchmen, the majority of citizens ordered them out of town. The Germans climbed to the west, settling two miles above on Big Dutch Creek." ~ High Country Names, 1972

The hike to Lake of the Clouds is rich in beautiful scenery as well as history. It is located in the Never Summer Range on the west edge of the Park.​

In the early part of the summer season, a large and steep snowfield covers over the rocky trail. Though a thin layer of soft snow may make crossing this snowfield appear safe, there's still hard ice underneath and it is quite easy to take a fast, hard slide into the boulders below. Crampons are the safest way to travel here.

Lake of the Clouds is large and sits at the base of Howard Mtn and Mt Cirrus

The glaciated moraine that holds the lake is covered with alpine wildflowers, such as Alpine Avens and Sky Pilots.

A small snowmelt pond with views to the east and Mt Ida.

There's some very interesting geology in the basin, with very decorative rocks and boulders.

Looking south across the Lead Mtn basin to Howard Mtn and Lake of the Clouds.

The trail off of The Grand Ditch that leads back to the trailhead.

By Barb Boyer Buck

“What’s on your butt and why are you going to Cleveland?” 

I looked over at my dad who was sitting next to me while I was driving.  I had no idea what he was talking about. ​

​Note to self:  next time, tell them to be someplace one hour before I really need them there. 

There were rangers standing on the road, right before we reached the Beaver Meadows entrance of RMNP at about 9 a.m. to make sure we had made a reservation and then at the gate we showed rangers our reservation confirmation. ​​My dad had a heart attack three years ago; he turned 78 this year.  Sprague Lake was the perfect spot, I thought, for a small hike.  We took a slight detour to show them the handicapped accessible camping spot. There is virtually no elevation gain and it’s a half-mile jaunt around the perimeter of this lake, which was created by Abner Sprague when he was building is lodge there in 1914.  
​To my surprise, my parents had never been there.  Our family moved to Colorado Springs in 1979 and my parents owned a house in Longmont for 30 years before they downsized to a smaller place in Johnstown, just two years ago.  I had hiked with my parents in Rocky many times before; I guess we were all younger then and did more strenuous hikes. ​

​On Friday, June 5, I completed the Bear Lake to Fern Lake Shuttle hike. The experience was quite different from years past for many reasons. Three of us girls made reservations for two cars and met at the Beaver Meadows Visitor Center at 6:30 a.m., just as law enforcement officers were setting up two emergency vehicles and stopping all cars to make sure folks were aware of reservation requirement. We dropped a car at the Fern Lake Shuttle Stop and took the second car up to the Bear Lake Trailhead. There was plenty of parking at both locations. We encountered snow about one mile into the hike and the trail remained snow-packed until the turnoff for Odessa Lake. There is more snow in Odessa Gorge than I have ever experienced outside of winter. Microspikes are a must as the trail crosses several snow gullies. I worked hard to kick in deep steps and my sneakers got absolutely soaked. For those unfamiliar with steep snow travel, these crossings will likely be scary and dangerous. A lightweight ice axe would be a good idea for added security. We saw few people on this section of the trail: a group of campers at the Sourdough site who warned us about the treacherous snow and a solo female hiker who had come up from Fern Lake. The views of Grace Falls, Notchtop Mountain and the Little Matterhorn were especially stunning after such a long hiatus from hiking in RMNP.

National Park mask ($9.99, $8.49 for members). Wearing that mask would be a way to stay safe and look good, while also supporting Rocky!

​The trail to Alberta Falls was covered by some snow, but it was easy enough to divert around and I can imagine most of that snow is gone by now, the snow is melting fast! Alberta Falls was flowing very full with snow melt. But once past Alberta Falls, we encountered more snow on the trail and occasionally we had to pause to let someone cross on the narrow packed snow trails, or they waited for us, everyone making an effort to social distance, or when that wasn't possible, turning away while someone passed. Though it seemed unfriendly, usually the other person said thanks, acknowledging the effort. ​

While we hiked, I was able to try out a new app called GPSMyHike, soon to be released. It’s an app developed by Rocky Mountain Day Hikes and this was the first time I was able to try it out.

It's time for Ask Dr. Day Hikes:
​
Dear RMDH,
Hi! Do you know if flowers are starting to bloom along the Fern Lake Trail?
ML KD

Thanks for the question ML KD!

The trail is definitely hike ready to The Pool and up to Fern Falls. Flowers are just starting to bloom along the lower section of the Fern Lake trail. I saw a few patches of Alpine Spring Beauties and the yellow Hollygrape mostly (and dandelions). And the aspens are starting to leaf out. 

As I drove into Moraine Park, I could see that the upper Big Thompson River had swelled to the top of the river banks from spring runoff, but has yet to flood the meadow. I also noticed that the parking at the Cub Lake trailhead was full at mid-day. mid-week in mid-May. The road to the Fern Lake trailhead was open and the parking lot there was full as well. 

As the photos below show, the trail to The Pool was snow free and dry, though not entirely runoff free. There were only a few snow patches of snow approaching Fern Falls and the Falls only had snow along the edges.

I did not hike to Fern Lake but hikers coming sown said there was still a packed snow trail to the Lake and about knee deep snow if you stepped off the snow trail. 

There's good hiking snow free at Wild Basin for a few miles, but only because the road to the Wild Basin trailhead is closed a mile before. That didn't stop an overflow parking lot of people from getting out on Sunday, people are anxious to get hiking. And the trail is mostly snow free and not terribly muddy up to Lower Copeland Falls. After that, it's a mix but drying out, up to the bridge over the North St. Vrain River. The river if also snow free up to that point, but only starting to swell with spring runoff. However, the final uphill stretch after the bridge quickly becomes snow covered, and it's slick going from there on. 

The lower portion of the Deer Mtn trail is in great shape. But once in the trees, there was plenty of snow coverage, and it was slick. The legs are tense all the way up and down trying to stay upright. Once on the flat top portion, before the final summit push, the snowshoer from the last snow couldn't find the trail. So there are all kinds of people following the wanderings of this semi lost snowshoer, and as the the snow melts, people are walking over vegetation and postholing at fallen logs. But the wayward snow trail does eventually make it's way to the summit.
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