Notes from the Trail
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Notes from the Trail
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by Murray Selleck Fox River Socks may be the best Christmas stocking stuffer gift you can choose. Of course, the gift receiver may think, “Bah humbug” the moment the socks are unwrapped. However, once they pull the new socks on their feet the feeling of being underwhelmed is replaced with the comfort of a warm Christmas hug! So, so, good! These past few months I’ve been testing a few pairs of Fox River socks in my hiking and backcountry ski boots. The comfort is excellent. The durability is great. They show no signs of thinning or premature wear after using them and washing them consistently for months. The two socks I’ve been wearing are the Matterhorn LW Crew and Ramble LW Crew. While they are both pretty similar in fit and performance there is a difference. The Matterhorn is primarily made up with merino wool and the Ramble is knitted up with majority Coolmax®. One is made with more natural fibers and the other is synthetic. The Matterhorn LW Crew: The Matterhorn uses 35% merino wool. Merino is incredibly popular because it is a natural fiber, renewable, anti-microbial, biodegradable, and feels great next to your skin. It also has the ability to self regulate temperature. With the addition of silk (13%), polyester (6%), and spandex (2%), the sock has increased durability compared to a sock using 100% wool. And with the silk you’ll notice a nice smooth and soft feel to the sock. Shall we say silky? Yes, the smoothness with the silk is noticeable. The spandex adds a touch of snugness to the sock and stay-in-place performance. They won’t shift on you inside your footwear or slip down your shins. The Ramble LW Crew:
The Ramble is a synthetic sock but that is no reason to shy away from its performance, comfort, and fit. The majority fiber is Coolmax®. Coolmax is made up of 60% recycled fibers. It is also a hollow fiber that allows it to wick moisture away from your skin, trap heat to keep you warm when you need it, expels heat and moisture when you need it, and dries quickly. The rest of the sock is made with nylon, polyester, and spandex. Same with the Matterhorn, these additional fibers help create a snug fit around your foot that won’t shift, bundle around your toes, or slip down your calf. Shared Features: Both models of socks share a left and right design, memory fit construction, hold their shape nicely, add foot support around the arch, absorb shock through the heel and toe protection with additional padding, and offer a nice, smooth, flat toe seam. This all adds up to both of these models of socks performing well and fitting and feeling nice on your skin. It may be a toss up between these two socks as to which one becomes your favorite. I like everything there is to like about using Merino wool not only for socks but for clothing, too. My only (slight) personal concern is how quickly it dries. This comment probably pertains more to next-to-skin base layers (torso and legs) rather than socks but if you accidentally dunk your feet into a creek... Wool does insulate when wet but it does take time to dry. And if it is next to your skin it may feel clammy until then. This consideration is really only important when you know your day will be filled with lots of climbing, breaking a deep snow trail, winter camping... Times you know you will be working hard and breaking a sweat. The key to staying warm in the winter is staying dry! Synthetics, however, dry quickly even while you’re wearing them. Synthetics are oil derived and it is good to seek out recycled synthetic products whenever possible. Good for Fox River for doing exactly that… A LIttle About Fox River: Fox River is USA company and they do all their knitting/manufacturing in Osage, Iowa. They have been around since 1900 and their longevity proves they know quite a bit about design, production, and offering great value with their products. You get a lot of value with their socks because they fit and perform excellently and they last a long time. Final Thoughts: Socks are every bit as important of an outdoor gear selection as any big ticket item. They are our first perception of comfort before we lace up our shoes or buckle our boots. They provide trail pounding cushioning. They keep the cold at bay in the winter and expel heat and sweat in the summer keeping us comfortable. Great socks provide all day comfort. If you haven’t considered Fox River in the past you’ll be happy when you do in the future! Where to Buy: Colorado Front Range Stores offering Fox River are Jax Goods (Fort Collins, Loveland), Whiteside's Boots (Greeley and Loveland), and the YMCA of the Rockies (Estes Park). Fox River socks are also sold through their website foxsocks.com.
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by Trenton Ming Owner of Elevation Peak Marketing Rocky Mountain National Park, a breathtaking natural wonder of Colorado, offers endless beauty and adventure. Its majestic peaks, serene lakes, and diverse wildlife draw millions of visitors each year. With as many visitors that make their way here each year, there are just as many unique perspectives and experiences within the wilderness of Rocky. As we immerse ourselves in its beauty, it's crucial to remember the importance of giving, and not just taking. The park provides us with countless gifts: opportunities for adventure, breathtaking scenery, the chance to connect with nature, wildlife viewing, and community and connection just to name a few. Even though we may not always think in terms of Rocky giving to us, it is important to take the time and reflect with this mindset. We can reciprocate this generosity in various ways, which is truly the least we can do for the park that we all love so dearly. Volunteering: By volunteering through organizations such as the Rocky Mountain Conservancy, we can directly contribute to the park's preservation. Whether it's trail maintenance, wildlife monitoring, or visitor education, volunteering allows us to give back and ensure the park's continued health. Practicing Leave No Trace: Adhering to Leave No Trace principles is essential for minimizing our impact on the environment. By packing out what we pack in, respecting wildlife, and following rules and regulations, we can help protect the park's delicate ecosystem. Appreciating Nature: Taking the time to truly appreciate the park's beauty, whether it's marveling at a stunning sunset or learning about the local flora and fauna, can deepen our connection to nature. By understanding and respecting the park's ecosystems, we can become better stewards of the land. There is something special about taking the time to learn Supporting Conservation Efforts: Donating to organizations like the Rocky Mountain Conservancy helps fund vital conservation projects, such as trail restoration, habitat restoration, and scientific research. These initiatives ensure the park's long-term health and sustainability. Sharing the Experience: By sharing our experiences and knowledge of the park with others, we can inspire future generations to appreciate and protect this natural treasure. Whether it's through social media, personal stories, or educational outreach, spreading the word about the park's importance can have a significant impact. Learning About the Park's History and Culture: By learning about the history and culture of the park, we can gain a deeper appreciation for its significance. This knowledge can help us to be more mindful visitors and better stewards of the land. About the author: Trenton Ming is an avid hiker and fly fisherman. He has hiked thousands of miles in RMNP, often to remote destinations. He grew up in a small town in Kansas and now calls Estes Park home, owning local marketing agency Elevation Peak Marketing. Trenton is our newest contributor to Rocky Mountain Day Hikes and Hike Rocky Magazine. We're excited to read what adventures he writes about next! by Marlene Borneman, author of Rocky Mountain Wildflowers 2Ed., The Best Front Range Wildflower Hikes, and Rocky Mountain Alpine Flowers. Hike Rating: Moderate Distance: 7.6 miles from Trailhead plus 1.4 miles on road from Shuttle/winter parking. Total 9 miles round trip in winter Elevation gain: 1,390 feet Rocky Mountain National Park offers a variety of winter hikes. Wearing winter spikes, snowshoes or skis are the most suitable forms of recreation. A popular destination in this frosty season is Fern Lake when the trail transforms to a carpet of shimmering snow. The trek to Fern Lake begins at the Summer Shuttle Stop 0.7 mile from the Fern Lake Trailhead as the road to the trailhead is closed from end of October through May. Be prepared for current conditions and weather by checking ahead at the Wilderness Office. Both trail conditions and weather can change rapidly. Rocky is often referred to the Land of Extremes for good reasons! Early in the season you may be wearing spikes for an icy start, but as you gain elevation you may need to switch to snowshoes. It is good practice to carry snowshoes strapped to your pack to avoid postholing. Postholing is a term used when with each step you are sinking deep into the snow past your knees which makes walking very fatiguing. Best to avoid. If there have been recent heavy snowfalls, you can start from the parking lot in snowshoes. Top Left: The icy Pool of the Big Thompson River. Top Right: Keep your eyes open for moose! Bottom Left: Spider on the snow. Bottom Right: Moose print. All photos by Marlene Borneman. Once at the trailhead it is an easy 1.75 miles hike up to The Pool, a deep collection of swirling water in the Big Thompson River. Hiking in the snow provides opportunities to investigate animal tracks, deer, moose, even field mice. Often these animals are seen along the snow-covered banks of the beautiful Big Thompson River. Spiders of all varieties may be seen on the snow in search of tiny insects. About a mile and half from the trailhead look to your right (north) “The Jaws” maybe visible. “The Jaws” is a large ice formation formed from water dripping down steep rock slabs creating a dramatic icefall. Technical ice climbers like to take on this challenge. Old Forest Inn trail sign and burn scar from the 2020 East Troublesome Fire. Photos: Marlene Borneman The next feature you reach is a backcountry campsite named The Old Forest Inn. The Forest Inn was one of the early rustic lodges located in Rocky Mountain National Park, built around 1913. The Forest Inn provided peaceful rest for hikers. In 1959, the remains of the Forest Inn were removed by the Park Service. The trail now becomes steeper with several switchbacks up to Fern Falls. Here the snow can become very deep. You will see evidence of the 2020 East Troublesome Fire. Stands of black, scarred trees in the glistening snow create a desolate landscape in winter. However, Fern Falls creates an intoxicating sparkling spectacle in the cold air. Fern Falls shows many faces in winter months, either completely covered in snow with only sounds of rushing water underneath, frozen water encased by snow sculptures, or cascades roaring down adorned by large sharp icicles or a mosaic combination. Leaving the falls, continue up a few more switchbacks. Soon you will see a hitch rack for summer horseback riders and just up a short hill Fern Lake comes into view. The shores of Fern Lake have a history of providing a restful spot for fishermen, hikers, and Park Rangers. Here stood Fern Lake Lodge, built in 1910 by Dr. William J. Workman from Kansas. His main interest was fishing and the lodge provided lodging and meals with some fishy stories thrown in. Later there were many others who managed the lodge with Rocky Mountain National Park taking over the property in 1958. Fern Lake Lodge was permanently closed in 1959. Due to the hazards of the deteriorating structure, the Park Service burned the lodge in 1976. Look slightly to the north and you will see the remains of the Fern Lake Patrol Cabin that was destroyed in the 2020 East Troublesome fire. This beautifully built sturdy cabin provided Park Rangers shelter when patrolling on official duty. In 1989 this Patrol Cabin was placed on the National Register of Historic Places. Maybe the cabin will be rebuilt one day. Fern Lake lies at 9,540 feet offering a striking vista more days than not with sunny blue skies overhead. Views of 12,129-foot Notchtop Mountain, 11,586-foot Little Matterhorn and 12,331-foot Knobtop Mountain make a picture-perfect backdrop to the shimmering frozen lake.
Spike season has returned to Rocky Mountain National Park. That is to say, if you are heading out for a hike in the Park, you should plan on winter trail conditions and it would be a good idea to have some kind of traction footwear handy. Current conditions can create slick and icy trails. November is a good month to get acclimated for winter. Regulating body temperature while hiking during this transition season can be tricky depending on elevation, aspect to the sun, and of course the daily weather conditions. Be prepared to stop frequently to either layer-up or dress-down. Our trail pages offer up National Weather Service trail specific weather conditions and forecasts to help you to be better prepared. Check them out to know before you go. And don't forget to admire this season of change. Beautiful ice formations are forming along open water, various signs of wildlife can be noticed as they prepare for the winter months, and the lower sun on the southern horizon creates dramatic light and shadows. Changes are in the air during the month of November. We are now 36 days away from Winter Solstice. Dear Mtn Trail
A good trail for snowy mountain vistas on a sunny day. With the sun being lower to the horizon this time of year, try to be on the trail before 10am to capture the best lighting on the mountains for photos. Lumpy Ridge Loop
A lower elevation, longer loop hike. Good sunshine will keep the beginning of this trail along the south base of Lumpy Ridge snow free for much of the year, and some years the entire trail can remain snow free into November. But right now you can count on snow and ice covering over much of the trail on the back side of this hike. After your hike, stop in to Lumpy Ridge Brewery for an apes beer! Emerald Lake Trail
A good hike to get an early taste of winter. This alpine lake trail is popular no matter what time of year. Use this shorter hike to make sure you have all of your winter gear ready to go for this season. November is the month winter moves down to lower elevation in Rocky Mountain National Park. It can be a challenge for hiking as you will need to be ready for any and all conditions. So get out and enjoy the seasonal transition! by Scott Rashid Colorado Avian Research and Rehabilitation Institute Colorado Avian Research and Rehabilitation Institute As fall ends and winter begins, birds begin to move to their wintering grounds, or the areas where they will spend the winter months, where they hope food and water is plentiful. Some of the birds that nest here also winter here, but other birds simply arrive in September and October to winter here, here being Colorado and specifically the Estes Valley and Rock Mountain National Park (RMNP). Migration takes many forms, and in fact, there are multiple types of migrations. There is elevational migration, latitudinal migration. longitudinal migration, circular migration and leapfrog migration. Different species use these varying types of migration. For example, shorebirds move north through the center of the country, migrate in a more circular form. From their wintering grounds along both coasts, they simply move north through the center of the country as they can feed in the flooded fields during their spring migration. Yet when they migrate in the fall, the center of the country if filled with crops, leading them to migrate south via either east of west coast to winter along the coasts of the Atlantic, Pacific and the Gulf of Mexico, migrating in two large circles. Birds here in the west have an elevational migration. Birds including Clark’s Nutcrackers, Horned Larks, and American Pipits nest either on or close to the Alpine Tundra and winter in Estes Park or along the grasslands of Eastern Colorado. Another example of migration is leapfrog migration. American Crows in the west have this type of movement. For instance, birds here in Estes Park head southeast in the fall/winter and are replaced by northern birds from British Columbia and Alberta, Canada. The species that both nest here and spend the winter in the Estes Valley include the corvids; Common Ravens, American Crows, Black-billed Magpies, the jays, and the Clark’s nutcrackers. The three species of nuthatches stay here as do some of the Brown Creepers. Townsend’s Solitaires and American Robins remain here as do Chickadees. Mallards, Common Goldeneye and Common Mergansers remain as do the Canada Geese. Some of the birds of prey winter here as well. These include the Red-tailed Hawks, Bald Eagles, Cooper’s Hawks, Sharp-shinned Hawks, Northern Goshawks, Great Horned Owls, Northern Pygmy-Owls, Boreal Owls, and Northern Saw-whet Owls. Birds that migrate out of Estes Park and include, most if not all the warblers, hummingbirds, and flycatchers, Pine Siskins, Hermit and Swainson’s Thrushes, Ruby-crowned Kinglets, Blue-winged Teal and Flammulated Owls. The birds that will appear in the fall/winter to spend the colder months in Estes Park and other parts of Colorado include the three species of rosy-finches, Evening Grosbeaks, Snow Buntings, Northern Shrikes, Lapland Longspurs, Pine Grosbeaks, Dark-eyed Juncos, and Rough-legged Hawks. It is a good idea to begin putting out bird seed for the winter birds in mid-October before they begin arriving. Once they are here they will need food to either refuel to continue moving or enough food to keep them here for the winter. As for what type of seed to put out, sunflower seed is always a good bet, as is millet and suet. Keep your eyes peeled for any of these species. Look for Black, Gray-crowned and Brown-capped Rosy-finches, Oregon, Slate, and White-winged Juncos, Snow Buntings, Evening Grosbeaks, and White-winged Crossbills. What began as a few friends who love hiking together in Kansas has now grown into a group of 70+ women who love to hike in Rocky Mountain National Park! How did this community of women come together and what is it they gain by hiking together? Rocky Mountain Day Hikes asked a few questions to Jeri Brungardt and Cindy Coughenour, the founders of Women Hiking Kansas and Beyond (WHKSAB), to find out how this love of hiking brought scores of women together from the lower elevation undulating terrain of Kansas to the steep and high altitude trails of Rocky Mountain National Park. RMDH: Where in Kansas is Women Hiking Kansas and Beyond based? Jeri & Cindy: We are based out of Wichita and Salina, Kansas. Cindy lives in Wichita, and I live in Salina. We started the group when both of us lived in Wichita but since we are a Facebook group the specific location we are in is not a big detriment. RMDH: How did you come up with the idea and what need are you trying to fulfill? Jeri & Cindy: Cindy and I met through a work experience. We became friends and started hiking with each other and a few other friends. We would post our adventures on Facebook and had so many of our friends asking to go along with us. We would try to remember who asked to go along with us but then the list got too long. So we brainstormed this idea of having a real hiking group and see how many might really be interested. We truly had no idea how fast and how well the concept would take off and grow. The need we are trying to fulfill is to provide females with a positive and comfortable hiking experience. We hope they all are, or become, appreciative of the outdoors. RMDH: How many participants did you start with and how many members do you have currently? Jeri & Cindy: We had 12 ladies show up for our first hike. Currently we have 10,898 Facebook followers. We started our group in late 1999. The largest hike we have ever had was 175 participants. It was a local in-town hike in Wichita. The average number for most hikes is 50-70 ladies. Our last hike was in October at Pomona State Park in Kansas. We had 70 ladies at that hike. RMDH: Is this a woman’s only hiking group or are all welcome? Jeri & Cindy: We are a female only hiking group for ages 12 and up. We have had girls as young as 12 years old and ladies as old as upper 80s. One of our most active hikers is a 77 year old. RMDH: Are your members mostly local folks or do they come from several different Kansas towns? And do you enjoy hiking in all seasons or is winter a no go? Jeri & Cindy: We have an organized hike each month. Most are "local" as in the Wichita area, but our hikers are mainly from Kansas. We have a few regulars from Oklahoma and Missouri. The specific location within the state of Kansas plays into the number that attend each hike. Since most of our hikers are from the Wichita area the distance from Wichita plays into the number that attend. We do gain quite a few hikers from other areas of the state depending on where the monthly hike will be held. We hike 12 months of each year. There are times when we must reschedule our hike if there is bad weather, flooding, icy conditions, etc. RMDH: Do you actively promote your hiking group to find new hikers to join? Jeri & Cindy: Yes, we have an active Facebook page (titled "Women Hiking KS and Beyond"). We have also been involved in many other media interviews. We have been on local TV several times, we have been on podcasts, we have been in newspaper interviews, we spoke at a Wichita agency on aging seminar, we had a large article in "The Active Age" newspaper, we spoke at Wichita State University and Butler Country Community College, and many local newspapers from our state-wide hikes have written stories about our group and interviewed us. We even had a reporter show up at a hike location two hours away from Wichita with his big camera and followed us into the hike for a couple miles and back to the trailhead. This is the most rugged trail in Kansas with many big ups and downs and some climbing on smaller rocks and through cracks. He did a great job carrying the large camera and not falling down! RMDH: Is the trip to Rocky Mountain National Park an annual trip? Do you always come to Estes Park? Jeri & Cindy: Yes, we have made it an annual trip in September of each year, and yes, our Colorado trip has always been to Estes Park. RMDH: How many years have you made this trip to Estes Park and RMNP? Jeri & Cindy: Five years with the WHKSAB group. Cindy and I traveled to Estes Park and RMNP in prior years dating back to 2015. Each year Cindy and I also do research for our trips and make an additional trip to Estes Park to determine which hikes we will take the ladies on and procure other information about things that are needed for the group trip. RMDH: How do you manage to get 70+ hikers to Colorado at the same time? Logistics must be complicated! Jeri & Cindy: To keep it simple for Cindy and myself, every hiker makes their own lodging and transportation arrangements. We assist them finding a roommate or a travel-mate, but they pay for their own lodging and transportation fees. We utilize Facebook for information distribution. We also have an in-person meeting about six months prior to the group trip to explain the trip details and explain many things to them such as timed entry, national park pass, lodging, hikes, what to take along, etc. The amount of time planning and answering questions can depend on how many are newcomers to our group and to Estes Park and/or RMNP that will be on the trip. RMDH: Do you stay in a number of hotels/lodges when you’re in Estes or is everyone centrally located? And if you are spread out all over town that must make logistics even harder? Jeri & Cindy: We have utilized the YMCA the last three years as our main place for lodging. Everyone is allowed to stay wherever they would like. We use the YMCA as our daily starting/meeting location for our hikes as well as any evening meetings that we hold. Most of our ladies stay at the YMCA, but a few do stay elsewhere. Prior to the staying at the YMCA three years ago we stayed at a local lodge (hotel) and found the YMCA was closer to the park entrances. The YMCA also has areas for meetings and a place to park extra cars. There are great YMCA trails to utilize also. RMDH: Do you hike as a single group or do you split up into smaller groups depending on athleticism, conditioning, age? Jeri & Cindy: Age has no relevance on how or who anyone hikes with, and it is mostly defined by hiking speed and distance any one person would like to hike. Some ladies have a group they go to Colorado with and that is who they hike with for the most part. We do hike in smaller groups. We will take a big group picture of those hiking on any given day and/or trail and then it just naturally thins out into smaller groups when the hike starts. Also, many ladies have found their equal athletic ability hikers and stick with that group as much as possible. Some ladies like lakes, some like waterfalls, some want more flat terrain vs a great amount of elevation, so these all play into where someone may hike. We try to find trailheads that have more than one item to see, and they can choose which trail best suits them. We instruct our ladies to never hike alone and always have a hiker buddy. RMDH: What do you hope to accomplish with this hiking group? Is it simply to enjoy nature or do you have other benefits/goals in mind for the members? Jeri & Cindy: We like to offer enjoyment of the outdoors and the beauty of hiking. We like to offer challenging hikes, as well as a couple hikes each year that are flatter and easier for all hikers. Many do hikes they never thought they could. We like to help women get out of their comfort zone. The camaraderie of fellow women hikers has shown to be a huge positive for so many of our ladies. Some women come to our local hikes and find many new friends. Then the next month they come with their new friends. We have experienced hikers and women who have never hiked before. We like to show them hiking is something than anyone can do. We do not do rock climbing but will have challenging hikes for those that want to do them. We have shorter and easier hikes on up to longer and more challenging hikes. Overall our hikes include many differences of distance and elevation. RMDH: Do you have favorite trails in RMNP you like to hike are do your groups like to explore? Jeri & Cindy: Yes, we have favorite trails in RMNP, but we like to take our ladies on different trails each year and try not to do the same hike two years in a row. There are so many trails to choose from that this is easy to do. Cindy and I personally do research and hike all the trails we provide information on for the group. We have knowledge of many of the trails and provide trail experiences for every lady. We did a headlamp hike around Bear Lake this year. This was our second time to do this type of hike. It is an early morning headlamp hike in the dark which then allows the hikers to also watch the sunrise. Our ladies also like to do things in the Estes Park like the mountain coaster, shopping, eating, jeep tours, Trail Ridge Road, Fall River Road, drive to Grand Lake, etc. They truly enjoy the entire experience of Estes Park and RMNP! RMDH: Since this is Thanksgiving time… what are you most grateful for when it comes to your hiking group and Rocky Mountain National Park?
Jeri & Cindy:Friends - old and new, hiking, mountains, the smell of mountain air, the views, the autumn colors, the sounds of a waterfall... We really appreciate all the volunteers and employees that keep the park clean and provide information with a smile. We also love the friendly locals on the trails. They have great suggestions and information for us. We are grateful for the local businesses, too. We have made many good friends and developed relationships with employees and owners of businesses. RMDH: What would you like to include that any of our questions haven't covered? Jeri & Cindy: If any lady reading this information is ever in Kansas look us up on Facebook. We would love to have Estes Park ladies on our hikes with us! We would also love to have Estes Park ladies join us in RMNP and hike with us while we are there. Any woman is welcome to register and join us for our hiking event to Estes Park. RMDH Closing Note: We know Rocky Mountain National Park attracts hikers from all over the United States and the world. It's heartening to know how the love for RMNP spans all nationalities, ages, cultures, genders, and race. RMNP is common ground... where the love of nature and mountains, grand vistas and open space, solitude and friendship can all be found with the knowledge that this land belongs to all of us. During this Thanksgiving season we are grateful for these protected places that create connections with people and the land. by Marlene Borneman In the autumn months, Colorado is known for spectacular displays of golden quaking aspens (Populus tremuloides). Mountainsides glow in deep golds, red and oranges mid-September through mid-October. No doubt an aspen grove or even one lone aspen tree in the autumn months can take your breath away. In Rocky Mountain National Park many native shrubs and flowering plants give brilliant fall colors on the forest floor, on hillsides, and along streams and creeks. Here is a tour of Rocky’s Best autumn colors beyond the aspens to take in while hiking this fall. Willows - Rocky Mountain National Park boasts many species of willows. Willows, (Salix), grow along creeks, streams, and rivers, in all elevations giving stunning deep yellows. Squashberry - Viburnum edule, also known as highbush cranberry, decorates moist areas along streams and creeks with crimson red leaves and red berries making for a very pretty fall display. The berries contain a drupe which is a stony pit. Chokecherry - Prunus virginiana, is in the Rose Family Chokecherry. It's a large shrub with white fragrant flowers flowers in the spring and dark purple berries in late summer. In autumn months chokecherry shrubs gives deep red, orange and yellow colors to the hillsides. Ferns hugging the forest floor show off hues of deep bronze, shades of brown and gold. Whortleberry - Vaccinium myrtillus, carpets the forest floor with amazing colors that hang on until late October or until the first snowfalls. Golden hues of grasses in the high meadows shimmer in the sunlight. Alpine avens give the tundra a striking scene with their fern-like leaves turning the tundra into a blaze of deep maroon. Fireweed - Chamerion angustifolium, with deep pink flowers in late summer transforms in fall with showy seed capsules wrapped in long hairy magical strands and spirals appearing magical along their large deep red foliage. The most common species of Geranium, Geranium caespitosum, adds to the understory with shades of red, yellow and orange leaves. Oregon-Grape - Berberis repens, spreads in large masses in the understory of the forest. Oregon-grape produces large, deep blue, and purple berries with royal- red thick shiny leaves adding a striking scene to a hike.
By Scott Rashid Colorado Avian research and Rehabilitation Institute (CARRI). Since 2007 the Colorado Avian Research and Rehabilitation Institute has been studying the fall movements of both Boreal and Northern Saw-whet Owls in Northern Colorado. This is accomplished by capturing birds in the fall. After they are captured, we check their condition by measuring and weighing them, then a numbered leg band is placed on each owl to identify individuals, before releasing them. Birds are captured in 3, 40-foot (12 meter) nets. Each net has four pockets that stretch the length of the net. The nets are placed in the woods in a “U” shape. After dark, the call of the owl we are intending to capture is broadcasted. As the owls are moving to what will eventually be their wintering grounds, in the fall, they come towards the call, fly around the speakers and land in one of the nets and are captured. To reduce excess stress to the owls, we place video cameras on each of the nets so we can monitor the nets in real time. The signal from the cameras is sent via WIFI to a computer that is inside a nearby building allowing us to monitor the nets. This way, as soon as the owls land in one of the nets we can rush to the nets and extract them, place them in a cloth bag and bring them into the building to be processed. Processing the owls consists of determining the age and sex of each bird, placing a numbered leg band on them, measuring their wings and tails, weighing each bird, and determining their age before releasing them. The information that we obtain from the owls is sent to the bird banding laboratory in Laurel Layland via computer. If any one finds a banded bird, they simply contact the banding laboratory using their website www.usgs.gov/labs/bird-banding-laboratory, fill out the information, and the lab will let them know who originally banded the bird and were it was banded. The banding laboratory will then send you a certificate of appreciation. They will also let the person that banded the bird know that the bird was obtained. The calls of the birds are broadcast using a cell phone and Bluetooth speakers. The cameras are powered using a portable power station. The battery lasts about eight hours, enabling us to work well into the night to research the owls. There are multiple banding stations all over the country capturing these owls. We are one of the few in the country that use cameras to monitor the nets. We have found that having cameras on the nets reduces stress on the bird immensely, eliminates predation of the owls when they are in the nets, and enables us to run off any large animals like bears, elk, and deer that come near the nets. These large creatures can destroy the nets by walking through them. As we have been operating our banding station for many years, people from around the country come to see the owls. Some of these individuals are fellow researchers that want to see how our operation compares to theirs. As few banding stations use cameras and want to see how well they work for the project. This season, we have several wonderful volunteers that will be assisting us with the research. Some have never seen this type of research before, but are excited to learn the process, and a few have assisted us for years and have their assigned jobs. This is an amazing operation to see, as it is a good way to see the owls up close in and learn about their natural history. Since we began capturing owls in the fall, we have banded more than 400 birds. The surprising thing about this is we have only had three owls either recaptured or found dead. One bird banded in Pinewood Springs was recaptured in Estes Park a year later. Another bird captured in Estes Park, was recaptured live and released in Eastern Pennsylvania, and another bird was recaptured in the same banding site that it was originally banded.
This research is important to see how many of these owls are in the area and what the health of the birds are, which also tells us of the health of the forests where the bird reside. Beaver Ponds: How do Post-Fire Sediment and Carbon Dynamics Contribute to Watershed Resilience?9/26/2024 This article is republished from Continental Divide Research Learning Center Beavers are an important part of river systems and are often referred to as ecosystem engineers. They construct dams using riverside vegetation that pool water on the upstream portion of the river. The dams also slow the water flow. The combined effect of pooling and slowing water allows sediment to settle upstream of the beaver dam, a process that naturally improves water quality.
The retention of sediment and carbon by beaver dams can dampen potential impacts to drinking water and aquatic habitat. Immediately following a fire is the time when the most sediment enters rivers and creeks. Knowing that the sediments would travel down towards the river valleys, Sarah Dunn - a graduate student at Colorado State University - decided to study the impacts of the fires on the sediment retention in beaver ponds within and outside of burned areas to understand whether beaver ponds impact the ability of a watershed to recover after disturbance such as fire (Figure 1). The ability of a watershed to recover after a disturbance is known as watershed resilience. Research Study To determine how beaver ponds affect the resilience of watersheds, Dunn set out to perform a research project to answer the following three questions: Do burned ponds store greater relative volumes of sediment compared to unburned ponds?, Do post-fire sedimentation rates in burned ponds exceed pre-fire and unburned sedimentation rates?, and Is post-fire sediment stored in beaver ponds coarser and have a higher abundance of organic carbon relative to pre-fire sediment? The rate and volume of sediment, carbon storage, and sediment grain size are expected to increase after a fire during the period when vegetation is recovering (Figure 2). Dunn used field, laboratory, and geospatial methods to answer these questions. During the field component of the project, 48 beaver ponds were surveyed. Ponds were located in both burned and unburned areas. In the field, surveys were conducted of the pond perimeters and sediment and water depths within the ponds. Dunn also collected sediment cores to identify charcoal within the layers of sediment that had been deposited. Laboratory analysis included measuring of total organic carbon and grain size of the pond sediment. Lastly, geospatial analysis was performed on the field and laboratory data. Results For the beaver ponds that were sampled and analyzed for this research project, about half were located within a burned area and the other half located in an unburned area. The average sediment volume stored in the ponds was 796 m3 and sediment volumes ranged from 4 m3 (about half a dump truck load) to 7,888 m3 (about 500 dump trucks worth). Sarah determined that burned area beaver ponds stored higher relative volumes of sediment. The sedimentation rates after fires were significantly different from sedimentation rates before the fire (Figure 3). In fact, the sedimentation rates in ponds post-fire were an order of magnitude higher than pre-fire rates in ponds. In analyzing the grain size of sediments in burned and unburned beaver ponds, Sarah found that the grain size and amount of organic carbon did not differ significantly. Applications in the NPS Beaver ponds, which once were abundant on the RMNP landscape and are now less common, drastically changing the hydrology of the environment. Beaver dams (Figure 4) create upstream ponds that store sediment and carbon. Due to the effects, mimicking beaver dams with structures is a strategy under consideration for fire-prone areas. The research that Sarah conducted provides evidence that beaver ponds effectively trap and retain post-fire sediment. The increased sediment in beaver ponds post-fire builds on the existing knowledge that beaver ponds provide to the ecosystem is evident through the increase of pooling water and decreased water flow (Figure 4). These findings contribute to the park’s efforts to restore beaver habitat.
by Karen McPherson Editor’s Note: This is the story of Gene Kiernan and his attempt to climb Longs Peak at the age of 87. It is a story of how experience, preparation, physical conditioning, and planning are the keys to creating a successful backcountry trip… and it still may not be enough. Our thanks goes out to the Kieran family for sharing their story with writer Karen McPherson. ------------------------ The Oldest Man to Climb Longs Peak: Col. Butler’s 1926 Record Challenged by Gene Kiernan Reverend William “Col. Billy” Butler climbed Longs Peak on his 85th birthday, September 2, 1926. Billy climbed with two friends, Mr. and Mrs. Bob Leonard of Longmont. Coincidentally, Mr. Leonard was also celebrating his birthday, albeit only 30 years of age. At the time of his climb, Col. Billy was commander of his local post of the Grand Arm of the Republic, a fraternal organization for Union veterans who served in the American Civil War. He became a minister after completing his service (hence, “Reverend”). Col. Billy’s climb occurred during the summer climbing season, which typically runs from mid-July through early September. This is the most “approachable” time to climb Longs Peak, the tallest mountain in Rocky Mountain National Park standing at 14,259 feet above sea level. Col. Billy and his friends left from Longmont, camped the first night at the base of Longs Peak, and climbed up and back home in just under 46 hours. Col. Billy’s enduring record, having lasted–so far–for 98 years, is a testament to his feat of sportsmanship. Col. Billy felt, “fit as a fiddle.” Nearly 100 years later, so did Gene Kiernan. One can assume Kiernan is not the only octogenarian to challenge Col. Billy’s record, but his story is available and should be told to the advantage of others in pursuit of this formidable mountain. Gene Kiernan climbed Longs for the first time at 65 years of age. He is a self-described “compulsive goal-setter.” He ran his own company as an architect and builder. He is a road bike warrior: biking from Canada to the Gulf, throughout France, and across 28 of the United States. He is no stranger to training, preparation, and determination. He attempted a solo climb of Longs Peak last summer at 86 years of age but was turned away at Granite Pass by an electrical storm. Determined to try again, a RMNP ranger at the trailhead gave him tips and encouraged him to assemble a team. Learning of Col Billy’s 98-year-old record motivated him to call in his A-team. This A-team included his friend Steve O’Conner, an iron-man athlete who had climbed to the base of Everest, completed the Annapurna circuit, and submitted five 14’ers; O’Conners wife, Carol, self-described “sherpa”; and friend Charlie Scarlett, Gene’s road biking comrade for 20 years and whose resume includes hiking Kilimanjaro. “Team Geno” also included his two children: Steve, an elite triathlete, and his daughter, Kelly, who regularly climbs 13ers near her home in Pagosa Springs, CO, and the youngest of the group at 50 years of age. A fit and qualified team. Gene was the captain of the ship. He had arranged and shopped for a week’s worth of meals, made sure everyone arrived in time to acclimate and led a practice hike to Chasm Lake and Granite Pass. Team Geno may have signed up with mixed sentiments of obligation and adventure, but they were unanimously inspired to physically and emotionally support Gene’s admirable quest. His children especially wanted to be part of their father’s achievement. On the day of the hike, Steve and Gene set off at 7 am, allowing Gene to “take his time.” Kelly, Charlie, and the O’Conners left about an hour and a half later, knowing they could travel faster and set up camp. Gene was to carry an abnormally light pack of water, snacks, and rain gear. The rest of the team carried their own gear, shared supplies for the group, and absorbed the rest of Gene’s gear. They all carried approximately 30 pounds, except for Steve, who had the largest and heaviest pack. Rain was predicted and everything could be wet. They planned to camp at the Boulderfield, six miles from the trailhead and at an elevation of 12,760 feet. Once they went up through the Keyhole and around the Narrows, they could determine if the back side was frozen. If so, they would head back. A difficult decision, but not a hard one. If not, they planned to summit by 11 am and get back down before afternoon thunderstorms. All they needed was good weather. Unfortunately, Team Geno had the grave misfortune of a sideways hail storm in the Boulder Field. To compound the matter, they found themselves without the right gear and no food to speak of. Ultimately, it was Steve and Kelly who risked their lives to save a man who, despite his inexhaustible leadership, packed neither pants nor a cold-weather sleeping bag. Two steps forward, one steps back. Members of the group peeled off throughout the climb for various reasons. Charlie was driven, in part, by his own desire to climb Longs Peak at the age of 72, but found it a relentless challenge, especially with a 30-pound pack. Despite his will to continue, altitude sickness caused occasional staggering and unsure footing. He fell farther and farther behind and, at one point, almost fell over backward. In hindsight, he had forgotten his fleece jacket — a frigid mistake for a sleepover in the Boulderfield. He made the wise decision to turn back. Unfortunately, he had the group’s stove in his pack. Kelly played the mountain goat, arriving first to ensure the group had safe campsites and filtered water. Unfortunately, by the time Gene reached the Boulder Field, there wasn’t time to set up his tent before the wind, rain, and sleet started. Kelly huddled with Gene in her tent while waiting out the first squall. The furious weather that night took its toll on Gene, even though Steve and Kelly offered him their clothes, a tent, body warmth, and a sleeping bag. He was dehydrated and presented signs of hypothermia. Meanwhile, the O’Conners couldn’t leave their tent in fear of freezing. They were cold and wet; they had one pair of dry socks and wet boots. They focused on surviving horrendous weather after a slow ascent, a late-in-the-day arrival to the Boulder Field, and no stove to make warm food. Steve O’Conner reflects, “We were all put at risk by poor decisions and oversight. It threatened my ability to summit and I very much feared Gene was going to perish that night. I was prepared to lift a body off the mountain. At one point, Kelly asked me to poke him with a stick to be sure he was still alive.” In the end, the group endured 6 dark hours of serious storms and no sleep as they shifted between frustration and fear. The decision to summit (or not).
By morning, Steve reports, “Only three of the 15 people camping decided to summit. Our group was drained. We agreed no one would be shamed for deciding not to summit. Otherwise, we were making a risky climb even more dangerous. My respect for my dad increased when he agreed, showing he knew his limits. Since the decision was quick and unanimous, for me it went immediately from a team to a personal goal.” Steve decided to continue solo to the top. Some accountability for the unnecessary challenges presented in this climb lay with the five members of the A-team. There was no “buddy check” to ensure appropriate gear, or “plan B” for food. Someone did reason with Gene to rent walking sticks, though. So there’s that. The Benefit of Trying Together Team Geno experienced a mixture of relief, vulnerability, and letting go. The group celebrated the week spent together and felt the camaraderie and the shared mission were more rewarding than beating any record. Kelly holds an invaluable memory of hiking ten hours up the mountain with her father, chuckling about what they had gotten themselves into. The solitude and gratitude offered by such a vast, beautiful space have inspired her to plan her next backpacking trip. Charlie was pained that he had failed himself and Gene. He realized, though, that Gene’s goals were not his goals. He demonstrated how important it is to reshuffle priorities on the fly and, “make decisions that are better for me (at my age) and my family.” However, he was left with a nagging thought that if they had attempted to climb Longs Peak in one day with light packs, they just might have made it… Steve summited Longs. He walked away with a keen sense of individual achievement and confidence in his willpower. Gene was grateful, uncharacteristically tearful even, once the group was back together safely. His career in architecture allowed him to work in teams and build great things, “but that was all brick and mortar. This is feelings and admiration.” As Gene trekked up and down the mountain, climbers asked, “Are you the one attempting to break the record?” They recognized and celebrated his perseverance. Way to go! Gene’s tenacity to produce a team in pursuit of his goal and his training alone (walking 15 miles a day for a year) was no small feat and can not be overlooked. And what were most other 87-year-olds doing on August 19th? Gene should be proud of his vim and vigor. May we all set goals way-up-high-in-the-sky. Longs Peak Trivia
Things to consider:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Abner_E._Sprague https://www.coloradohistoricnewspapers.org/?a=d&d=TDT19260903-01.1.1&e=01-06-1926-31-12-1926--en-20--1--img-txIN%7ctxCO%7ctxTA-%22william+butler%22-------2-Boulder----- https://www.nytimes.com/1926/10/03/archives/aged-veteran-scales-a-peak-william-butler-at-85-has-a-strenuous.html https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Longs_Peak by Jamie Palmesano - Brownfield’s “To everything there is a season, and a time to every purpose under the heaven.” We are graced by the changing seasons of life. All four seasons in Rocky Mountain National Park are magical, but there is something extra special about autumn in the mountains. From bugling elk to quaking aspen, the sights and sounds of fall in RMNP are unmatched. September has a beauty all of its own and there are plenty of easy and moderate hikes that will fully immerse you in the awe of autumn. These are my five favorite fall hikes in RMNP. Bierstadt Lake Bierstadt Lake is nestled in the forest and boasts beautiful views of the Continental Divide. This shallow mountain lake has no streams flowing in or out of it. The lake is named after artist, Albert Bierstadt, whose 1870’s paintings of Longs Peak and Bierstadt Lake have inspired many for generations. I recommend starting this hike at the Bear Lake Trailhead and concluding it at the Bierstadt Lake Trailhead. As you start on the Bear Lake trail, you’ll climb towards the lake on the Flattop Mountain Trail and later follow the Bierstadt Lake Trail. Within the first half mile of the hike, you encounter a stunning grove of aspen on the Flattop Mountain Trail. Looking back, you can find some openings to peak through the aspen and glimpse Bear Lake in its golden glory. Views of Keyboard of the Winds on Longs Peak are also visible through the aspen. The trail is mostly flat after the first mile and winds through the evergreen forest. Once you have arrived at the lake, the best views are from the north side. The Continental Divide is reflected into Bierstadt Lake and makes for a perfect portrait of the mountains. You'll have marvelous panoramic views of the mountains (from left to right: Longs Peak, Chiefs Head Peak, McHenrys Peak, Powell Peak, Taylor Peak, Otis Peak, Hallett Peak and Flattop Mountain.) The key to capturing all of fall’s beauty on this hike is to descend down the Bierstadt Lake trail rather than returning to Bear Lake. You can take advantage of RMNP’s wonderful shuttle system and ride the free shuttle back to the Bear Lake parking lot. The Bierstadt Lake Trail steadily descends more than 600 feet along a series of switchbacks lined with lodgepole pines and aspens. Ahead of you, lies some of the most spectacular views of the Continental Divide with the colors of fall painted on the canvas of creation. It’s an iconic view of Rocky Mountain National Park in the fall and should be on every hiking bucket list. Alberta Falls Alberta Falls is arguably the best waterfall in Rocky Mountain National Park. This 30-foot waterfall is tucked in a gorge on Glacier Creek surrounded by trees and rocks. Its thunderous roar fills the air and the mist from the falls can be felt by standing on the rocks below. This waterfall was named after Abner Sprague’s wife, Alberta, who were among the first settlers in Estes Park and homesteaded in Moraine Park in the 1870’s. The nearly one-mile trail to Alberta Falls is dotted with aspen trees glowing gold in the Colorado sunshine. This path is among my favorite for fall foliage. With approximately 200 feet of elevation gain, this is one of the most accessible waterfalls in RMNP. It is a very popular destination, so you may want to consider utilizing RMNP’s free shuttle service, as parking is limited. Cub Lake The hike to Cub Lake begins in the Moraine Park area of RMNP at the Cub Lake Trailhead. The hike starts by crossing the Big Thompson River and traveling around the edge of Moraine Park. Shortly into the hike, you will pass Beaver Ponds on your left. Moose and elk are frequently sighted along this trail, especially in the fall. The annual elk rut is a staple to the autumn experience in the Rocky Mountains. The word rut comes from the Latin word “rugire,” meaning "to roar" and is used to describe the mating season for the elk. As you wander along the path, you will often hear the unique call of the elk known as bugling and their sounds echo in the valley. Around the two-mile mark, you will pass through a healthy grove of aspen that shimmer and sparkle with their golden leaves. Once you arrive at the lake, you will see the underbrush, the ferns, grasses, and even the lily pads are dressed in yellows and oranges to honor the season. Unfortunately, the Fern Lake Fire in 2012 took a major toll on the area, so the lake is not as picturesque as it once was, but it still retains its rugged charm. Deer Mountain Deer Mountain is a pleasant six mile out-and-back hike where you get the satisfaction of summiting a mountain without it being terribly strenuous. One of the defining characteristics of this hike is that it offers fantastic views of Longs Peak, Upper Beaver Meadows, Moraine Park and Estes Park. Aspen line the side of the trail within the first mile of the hike and show off their color in fall. Aspen trees are also sprinkled throughout the remainder of the hike. At the summit, the 360-degree panoramic views of the area are breath-taking. If you have a youngster itching to climb a mountain, this is a great “first summit hike” for kids. Lily Lake Lily Lake is the most easily accessible area to take in the colors of fall and behold a beautiful mountain lake. Sitting right off Highway 7, Lily Lake offers a handicap accessible trail around the lake. For those who would like a bit more of a climb, you can take the ridge trail to the right of the lake and look down upon the lake. Perched proudly behind Lily Lake, stands Longs Peak at 14,259 ft. It is the area’s only fourteener and the most famous mountain in Rocky Mountain National Park. There are aspen trees along both sides of Highway 7 offering outstanding fall colors everywhere you look. Lauren DeStefano once said, “Fall has always been my favorite season. The time when everything bursts with its last beauty as if nature had been saving up all year for the grand finale.” I echo these sentiments. Fall in Rocky Mountain National Park is indeed the grand finale of the year. With each leaf underfoot, every tree swaying in the breeze, the call of the elk in the distance, and the sapphire sky above, I am reminded of the beauty of this majestic land. This incredible valley beckons you to come and enjoy this glorious playground with the child-like wonder you had when you first laid eyes on it. And, with a grateful heart, realize that each changing season is a good and perfect gift. All photos by Jamie Palmesano by Ally Anderson Physiology and Medical Sciences UA Franke Honors College University of Arizona “The mountains are calling and I must go." This is a popular quote by John Muir that rang true for a young college student named Ely Bordt. His first experience traveling to the Rocky Mountains pulled him in and never let him go. The Rockies challenged him and changed him, teaching him what his mind and body are truly capable of with enough grit and enthusiasm. It all started the summer of 2017 when Ely participated in a Colorado Ecosystem Field Studies program. The field study website describes this experience as ”An opportunity to study the Colorado Rockies and apply your classroom and textbook learning while immersed in an incredible mountain ecosystem setting.” After that first taste of living and working in the mountains, Ely's life trajectory shifted as he felt a strong pull towards the mountains postgrad. As a wide-eyed college graduate, Ely jumped at the opportunity to trade the flat lands of Indiana for the Colorado Rockies. Flashforward to February of 2021, Ely got a job in Longmont, Colorado and made a point to be on a trail whenever he wasn't working. Having no prior experience hiking or climbing, Ely would often hit the trials with the sole motivation of good views and impressive photos. This all changed when a year later he met his mentor, Kevin Rusk, a seasoned mountain climber with a big heart to show Ely the joy of pushing his body to new heights in the Rockies. Kevin taught Ely how to use his gear to climb in different terrains and instilled in him the importance of precautionary measures like bringing a rope even if you don't think you’ll need it. Ely followed Kevin's footsteps all winter, learning to climb glaciers, starting at their first climb together up Tyndall Glacier. When that winter was over, they climbed rocks together through the summer. “(Kevin) thought, let's get you off a trail and into some ropes, and since then... It erupted and now I'm snow climbing, rock climbing, and scrambling and don't so much stick with trails anymore, I aim to get off the trails.” -Ely As mileage started to increase and he started to fall more and more in love with the mountains, Ely went from a novice climber to someone whose mind revolved around getting back into the challenging terrain of the mountains. Rocky Mountain National Park and the Indian Peaks south of the park became his favorite spots in his early years of serious climbing. He worked tirelessly to condition his body to handle even the most advanced terrain alongside his mentor Kevin. How is it that in only a few short years, Ely has managed to completely shift his lifestyle from somewhat sedentary to extremely athletic? What are the physiological implications that come along with the ability to sustain endurance and strength while clinging to the side of a mountain? How does Ely fuel and train his body to perform at such a capacity? Shift in Lifestyle and Mental Headspace Ely has not always been able to casually climb Longs Peak. Longs is a challenging 14er that requires great deals of mental and physical toughness and is a great achievement for those who complete it. Ely has joyfully completed this climb multiple times and has plans to climb it again! This kind of ambition and ability to take on such challenges illustrates the dramatic shift from how he held himself in his childhood. He explains his early years as a period of time when he was overweight and lacking motivation to keep a consistent exercise regime due to a lack of excitement towards most types of physical activity. ”Prior to hiking, I was a gamer. I spent a lot of time online. There's a lot of toxicity online. I didn’t get out much. Hiking allows me to clear my mind.” - Ely He was an uninspired kid, most often seen indoors playing video games, lacking the desire for exploration or challenging physical feats. Fast forward to the present day, Ely is calmer and more mellow, feeding off of the serine mountain landscape he surrounds himself with. He's a social young adult, full of ambition and he credits this dramatic shift into a more positive headspace to the mountains. “I was entirely unathletic prior to that (moving to Colorado), it was a big change. The views drive me to get out but more so, if I go too long without the mountains, I'm thinking, I need to get a workout in. I need to get active.” -Ely “The mountains are something I get hungry for if I go too long without” -Ely Ely explained how he's tried weightlifting and cycling, but the mountains are the first and only thing that he's seen dramatically motivate him to get active. He has gone from an unmotivated child to a driven athlete looking forward to the next adventure, overall more enthusiastic and motivated about life as a whole. Why Does Exercise Improve My Headspace? As Ely experienced firsthand, there is a link between a lifestyle that prioritizes physical activity and improved mental headspace. The moment someone participates in physical activity, there are neurochemical changes that start taking place. There are hormones directly correlated to stress, which are reduced upon an exercise induced increase in heart rate. As these stress hormones are reduced, chemicals in the brain called endorphins are increased. Endorphins act on the body to brighten a person’s mood and alleviate stress. These chemical changes happen every time a person is physically active and even more consistently in someone who has a habit of increasing their heart rate through exercise. This explains why Ely’s attitude and outlook seemed to transform completely as he became more active. He began to alter his brain chemistry as a whole! Building Cardiovascular Stamina On top of building mental endurance, Ely has also been on a journey of building cardiovascular stamina. This is the ability of the heart and lungs to endure longer and harder through difficult exercise. Coming from an inactive lifestyle in Indiana, Ely describes this as a significant challenge. He started training on lower elevation trails in the Boulder Colorado area and built up to the challenging elevations of the Rocky Mountain National Park. Ely noticed improvements in his cardiovascular capacity when he got out into the mountains as much as possible getting as high as possible! He would celebrate each landmark climb at a higher elevation, constantly pushing himself to get higher and on more challenging trials. Training at Altitude A very common strategy among athletes is training at higher altitudes to develop stronger cardiovascular endurance because of the cardiovascular challenge of being in low-oxygen environments. Something special happens to the body’s ability to carry oxygen when someone puts themselves in a high-altitude environment where the oxygen is thin and less abundant. The low amounts of oxygen trigger a hormone called EPO (erythropoietin), which stimulates the production of red blood cells. The red blood cells begin to grow larger and increase in number to maximize the amount of oxygen they can hold and transport throughout the body. Ely, being an elite athlete who spends the majority of his time exercising at high elevation, has red blood cells that look differently than those of an athlete at sea level who has an abundance of oxygen in the air around them! If Ely were to go down to sea level, theoretically, he would find that his cardiovascular endurance would be even better. He has such a high number of red blood cells at a greater volume ready to make the most of little amounts of oxygen but finding that at sea level there is more oxygen to use than normal. It is very common for athletes to train at high altitudes to change their red blood cell composition and come back down to sea level with an advantage. Fueling the Body to Endure the Mountains Once Ely became more acclimated to the high elevation of the Colorado Rockies he was able to withstand more difficult trails mentally and cardiovascularly. He started to push the limits of what his body was able to achieve and to do so, he needed the right fuel. This meant taking nutrition to a whole new level. Ely describes his diet as high protein and high carb to have energy to perform at challenging levels, restore muscle, and maintain strength. Ely has a specific diet the day before a big hike. He prioritizes water, drinking four liters throughout the day before his planned day in the mountains. He also prioritizes eating as many calories as he can: chips, queso, whole pizzas, you name it. Ely expressed that the biggest component of waking up with energy is drinking substantial amounts of water the day before. While he’s out on the trail, Ely focuses on his sugar intake: fruit snacks, Honey Stingers, and salt tablets with and without caffeine. Ely is slightly anemic, meaning he has a blood disorder that reduces the effectiveness of the blood stream's ability to carry oxygen. To combat this, the morning of a big day in the mountains he will eat two servings of dry Cheerios. This cereal contains 70% of his daily iron intake. Consuming great amounts of iron translates to an increased amount of hemoglobin and an increased amount of oxygen capacity in the mountains. He eats these Cheerios without milk because milk inhibits iron absorption when eaten in conjunction with iron. Importance of Good Nutrition Ely's methods of fueling his body before and during athletic activity are widely used by athletes performing at his level of difficulty. His emphasis on water intake the day before extreme physical exertion is very important, especially on a hot day where perspiration is more likely. Water is important in so many aspects of body functionality including regulation of body temperature, lubrication of the joints, and transportation and digestion of important nutrients. Adequate levels of hydration affect many aspects of athletic performance. Carbohydrates are used by the body as its main fuel source during any kind of energy expenditure. Having a plentiful store of carbohydrates for the body to use will supply more energy and allow it to endure harder and longer. Nutritionists also recommend athletes prioritize snacks throughout the day, as Ely does, to maintain energy and nutrition, keeping the body strong and able to endure. What is Next for Ely Bordt in the Mountains ”My biggest challenge is just bravery” -Ely In past summers, Ely has done a lot of fourth-class scrambling. His goal for this summer is to get into more low fifth-class scrambling. This is the kind of terrain that borders the need for a rope. He aims now to challenge himself on more difficult terrain that is intimidating and more technical. If it is at all possible to be done without a rope, that's the way he wants to get it done. Ely does prioritize his safety, carrying with him what Kevin taught him in the beginning. “When I talk about getting into these technical terrains being my goals next summer, I always go in with what he (Kevin) taught me about having an exit strategy. I'll probably bring a rope and even if I don't use it on the way up, if I get cliffed out and need a way to get out of what I'm on, a rope will always be handy for at least rappelling and getting off.” -Ely Ely wants to get in the right mental space to be able to handle harder terrains such as the north face of Longs Peak. “I can see the goals I had and met, and I'm now wondering what I can do next” -Ely
Summer hiking season is fleeting and from the early days of summers warmer weather, a panic can overtake me that I won't get enough days on the trail before it's all over. It can feel hectic to make the time, make the reservations, set the alarm for early arising, hurry through the gate to get on the trail and get to the long planned destination, so that I can finally relax! A day on the trail is the best, but sometimes in the rush to get as much hiking as I can, I can feel as rushed on the trail as I do off the trail and I forget to slow down. The days of August can be the best days to practice taking time to slow time on the trail. It can be a time of nature immersion.
Immersion Tips
Don't hike. Instead feel what it's like to saunter or meander. It can be easier if done alone, but if you are with others, talk about what you hear, share interesting nature patterns you see. Speak through nodding. Don't plan on a destination. Instead find places to sit, close the eyes, and listen. Listening to the sound will make it easier to not think about everything else going on in your day to day life. It's the way to slow time. Though it can be difficult in busy Rocky Mountain National Park to become fully immersed, try going in the evening, when there are fewer people on the trails. Three trails for immersion While almost any trail can lend itself to immersion, here are three to practice on:
Coyote Valley
Copeland Falls
Take advantage of these late summer days to practice slowing time with an immersion in Rocky Mountain National Park. By Jamie Palmesano Ansel Adams, America’s most famous photographer said, “You don’t take a photograph, you make it.” Making photos is one of the most delightful parts of hiking Rocky Mountain National Park. We live in an age where nearly everyone now carries a camera in their pocket. Whether you have a DSLR or an iPhone, a few tricks of the trade can help you create outstanding photos to commemorate your hiking adventures. These are my favorite five tips for creating powerful scenic images and capturing the grandeur of the Rocky Mountains. With each tip, there is a photograph to demonstrate how that photography rule looks in real life. RULE OF THIRDS The Rule of Thirds can help you compose a well-balanced photograph. Imagine that your image is divided into nine equal parts by two vertical and two horizontal lines. You want to position the most important elements of your image along these lines or at the points where these lines meet. This will create a wonderful balance to your scene and highlight the key features of your image. LINES LEADING TO INTEREST When we look at a photo, our eyes are naturally dawn along lines. It’s how we see. There are lines everywhere around us, whether they are fences or sidewalks or trails or trees. If you place these naturally created lines within your photograph to lead to a point of interest, it will pull the viewer into your image. Leading lines can take you toward a subject or even move you through a scene. POINT OF VIEW The point of view or perspective may be the most influential tool used to create a powerful image. Just like in life, how we see a situation will determine our success or failure. Often, if we simply change our perspective, we see a situation through a totally different lens and find treasures, even in difficult situations. In photography, the point of view has a significant impact on the composition of our photo. It truly determines the message we convey with each image. Rather than just standing there and pointing your camera in front of you and shooting at eye level, change your perspective. Consider laying on the ground, climb a high rock, move to the side, get close up or zoom way out. Play around with different angles. Make your photograph tell a story by showing the object from a different vantage point. FRAMING There are natural frames everywhere we look. Trees, archways, branches, holes in rocks all create natural frames by placing them around the edge of a composition to isolate the subject from the rest of the image. A more focused image will naturally draw your eye to the point of interest. The frame will highlight the main subject in a photograph. This tip works in tandem with point of view because oftentimes you will need to change your position to locate these natural frames. BACKGROUND Our human eyes can seamlessly distinguish between different elements in a scene, but the camera struggles to do this. A camera has a tendency to flatten both the foreground and background, unless you are intentional about preventing this. Look for a background that is unobtrusive, especially if you have people in the picture. Be sure a branch isn’t sticking out from behind someone’s head. If you are photographing flowers, make sure there aren’t limbs or weeds distracting from the flower. Always be sure to consciously check your background before clicking the photo. Another trick is to blur the background by either changing the depth of field or using portrait mode on your camera. Blurring the background isolates the main subject and allows it to fully encapsulate the frame. When photographing wildlife, it is tempting to zoom in as close as you can and only frame the animal. But, oftentimes, if you look carefully at the background, you can use the animal to tell a bigger story. By utilizing these five techniques, you will be able to create photographs that capture the essence of Rocky Mountain National Park. We often forget that the word photography inherently puts you, the photographer, as the author and creator of an image. The Greek root words, “photo” meaning light and “graph” meaning to write, give us the very definition of the word, photography. Photography means “to write with light.”
The next time you lace up your hiking boots and sling your backpack over your shoulder, remember that an adventure awaits where you can write with light and make photographs that will last a lifetime. By Murray Selleck There’s not much you can do when you’re inside a thunderstorm cloud with lightning flashing and thunder pounding simultaneously. The crack and flash of lightning hurt our eyes so harshly that even with them closed the light penetrated through eyelids squeezed closed tight. Being inside the belly of a timpani drum while the drummer pounds out a rhythm might give you an idea of the ear punishing thunder but it wouldn’t describe the anxiety of being caught out and exposed in such a mountain storm. That was our luck camped way above timberline on a snowfield up in the North Cascades. We were a group of climbers on a month’s long mountaineering course with the National Outdoor Leadership School and we were just about as exposed as a person could be. The day had been overcast, not unusual for the North Cascades. Across a deep valley from us was Mount Johannesburg with a strange lenticular cloud silently smothering its summit. The sun was setting and an eerie orange, green and yellowish glow was coloring the clouds. It was such an unusual color it created a feeling of unease in all of us. And what felt like a heartbeat, the cloud shifted and moved onto us and let loose its maelstrom. We did what we could taking all our ice axes and planting them in a cluster above camp to create a lightning rod. Or so we hoped. We grabbed a couple tents and raced down the snowy slope loosing as much elevation as possible before rain, thunder, and lightning told us far enough. We crammed as many of us that would fit into a few two person tents and waited it out, each of us silent with our own thoughts of adrenalin enhanced doom. Never again is the take away lesson of that experience. One hopes to never again be so susceptible to good or bad luck or whims of a mythological Zeus. But for those of us who love the mountains, love being among the highest peaks, we take precautions, plan, pack, minimize the risks as much as possible and return again and again. There are about 25 million lightning strikes pre year in the United States according to the Lightning Safety Council. Each one has the potential to cause damage or even kill. Colorado ranks 19th in the USA among the 50 states in the number of lightning strikes. On average we receive about 500,000 lightning flashes a year. Lightning can travel up towards 25 miles away from a storm cloud. “Out of the blue” is not unrealistic when it comes to lightning. There’s a saying “when thunder roars go indoors.” What is the best thing to do when even when despite your best planning has you caught out in nasty storm? Hunker down by making yourself as small as possible? Get cozy under a tree? Group up and call for Mr. Wizard to come save the day? Here are some basic lightning precautions do’s and don’ts while on a day hike or backpacking.
There is no good reason not to go hiking or backpacking in RMNP but there are plenty of reasons to be prudent by making a plan and sticking to it. Check the weather forecast. Tell a friend or family member where you will hiking and when you will be home. Pack your pack accordingly and plan for the unexpected. Lightning FYI: Lightning Safety Council UC Health Lightning Safety 7 Lightning Safety Tips - AccuWeather Elevation defines Rocky Mountain National Park, with the world of the Alpine being an exciting place to be during the month of July. This Land-Above-the-Trees is the last place winter holds its grip in the spring and the first place it descends upon in the fall. That makes summer in the alpine zone short but spectacular. The burst of little tiny flowers can change almost daily. To truly appreciate these little gems, you really need to get on your belly. Now is the time to hike some high-elevation trails. Here are three hikes in Rocky Mountain National Park to enjoy this July. Note: As spectacular as alpine hikes are in July, it is also a time for thunder and lightening storms. So know before you go, start super early, and always be prepared to decend! For more on lightening safety tips, read more here. A Rocky Mountain National Park classic, this hike will take you right up to the east face of Longs Peak, known as The Diamond. Waterfalls and wildflowers greet the hiker with a little bit of rock scramble on the final push to the lake. For more on this trail, visit: Chasm Lake trail Starting at Milner Pass on Trail Ridge road, this trail quickly gains in elevation and most of the hike is spent rolling across the open tundra before making a final push for the Mt Ida summit. The views are 360 with the Never Summer Range to the west. For more on this trail, visit: Mt Ida trail Accessing this trail involves driving up the one-way Fall River Road to the Chapin Pass trailhead. The trail up these three summits is not maintained by the Park, so pay attention to where you are while you enjoy the thrill of tagging multiple summits. For more on this trail, visit: Chapin, Chiquita, Ypsilon trail Hiking in the rarefied air of the alpine is truly a rarefied experience, and July is prime time to be there. You won't want to miss this!
by Scott Rashid, Colorado Avian Research and Rehabilitation Institute Now that summer is here, birds are singing, nesting and raising their young. In the winter, the common birds include Common Ravens, American Crows, Northern Pygmy-Owl, Black-billed Magpies, Mountain and Black-capped Chickadees, all three rosy-finches, the three species of nuthatches and more. However, when the migrants begin arriving from their wintering grounds the number of bird species exponentially increase. Most of the birds that spend the winter here, also remain here year-round. There are a few species that migrate north to nest. These northern migrants include the Northern Shrike, Gray-crowned Rosy-finch, Common Redpoll, Lapland Longspur, and the Snow Bunting. When summer arrives, birders search out species including Western Tanagers, Black-headed Grosbeaks, Olive-sided Flycatchers, Dusky Grouses, Western Wood pewees, Broad-tailed Hummingbirds, Band-tailed Pigeons, Lesser Goldfinches, and the cliff, barn, violet-green and Tree Swallows. Many of the species that nest here can be seen when you’re hiking. Birds are usually more prevalent at the trailheads than they are in the middle of the trail or the final destination. The trails that seem to have the most species are those that have the most varied habitat. For example, when hiking Upper Beaver Meadows, birds including Olive-sided Flycatchers, Western Wood Pewees, Williamson’s Sapsuckers, Pine Siskins, House Wrens, Warbling Vireos, Green-tailed Towhees, and Chipping Sparrows can be heard and seen with relative ease. Another good birding location is the Alluvial Fan area and the road to the Endo Valley Picnic area. This is a good spot to find Red-napped Sapsuckers, Pine Siskins, Hairy Woodpeckers, Dusky Grouse, Western Wood Pewees, and Wilson’s Snipe. Many of these species can be seen simply by walking along the road and both listening and searching for the birds as they frequently fly over the road. If you venture higher in elevation and hike the area around Bear Lake, and other higher mountain trails, you may find Canada Jays, Pine Grosbeaks, Red-breasted Nuthatches, Black Swifts, Northern Goshawks, Hermit Thrushes, Three-toed Woodpeckers, Hairy Woodpeckers, and Red Crossbills. If you’re on the tundra there are usually fewer species of birds but larger numbers of individual birds. For example, when on the tundra, keep your eyes open for White-tailed Ptarmigan, American Pipits, Horned Larks, Brown-capped Rosy-finches, White-crowned Sparrows, and Common Ravens. All of which are frequently seen with ease. Oddly enough when on the tundra, you may see birds that appear to be out of place. These include Red-tailed Hawks Prairie Falcons, Mountain Bluebirds, American Robins, and even Broad-tailed Hummingbirds. After the fourth of July, very special avian species arrive in the area. These are the Calliope Hummingbirds and the Rufous Hummingbirds. These diminutive dynamos remain here for a few weeks before making their way to their wintering grounds in Mexico. Male Rufous Hummingbird, as their name suggests are rufous colored and stand out at your feeders, as they are brightly colored and aggressive.
The Calliope Hummingbirds are the smallest nesting birds in North America. These birds are often less numerous than the other two species, as they seemingly get pushed around by the larger birds when at the feeders. If you’re out and about after dark, listen for Common Poorwills, Common Nighthawks, Northern Saw-whet Owls, Flammulated Owls and Great Horned Owls. When you’re outside this summer keep your eyes and ears peeled for the many species of birds that can be both seen and heard, you may even see something that you have never seen before. Collecting trail tags is a rocky mountain tradition. by Jamie Palmesano, Brownfield’s Nicolette Sowder once said, “Children deserve to grow and learn in a place, and alongside a force, that is as wild and alive as they are.” Wild and alive is a perfect description of Rocky Mountain National Park! There is almost nothing as precious as watching the little feet of a child hike these rugged Rocky Mountain trails, outfitted with a tiny backpack, a cute ball cap, cool sunglasses, and their special water bottle. They skip and jump, climb on rocks, talk incessantly, look for treasures, and remind us of true childhood wonder. The trails of Rocky Mountain National Park are filled with children of all ages experiencing the joy of nature and a sense of adventure. Though the journey itself is satisfying, there is something powerful about a small incentive to help those little legs reach the destination. The reward is called Trail Tags. In 1972, Lyle and Marge from Lincoln, Nebraska, founded the company called LYMA and began creating Trail Tags, which are commemorative patches, to give hikers the perfect souvenir. Out of a sincere love for hiking the Rockies, they started a business to give hikers a literal badge of honor. Trail Tags are high quality, custom designed, hand-sewn embroidered patches for popular hiking trails. Each patch features a special graphic as well as a border color that signifies the distance of the hike. Lyle and Marge fell in love with Estes Park and became passionate about hiking. They believed hiking was a great way to create life long memories for yourself, your family and friends. The Trail Tags gained in popularity over the years. In the 1990’s, they sold their business to Mary Conway who continued the tradition. In 2005, Brian and Mary Shaw moved from California to Nebraska and bought the business. They have been hiking the trails of RMNP ever since and have brought many new Trail Tags to the collection. The Shaws have updated numerous tags as well as continually added new destinations based upon customer feedback and requests. Mary said, “We love reading emails from customers who have been buying tags for years and are now passing down that tradition to their kids.” Earning Trail Tags for Rocky Mountain National Park and surrounding destinations has become quite a hobby for many people. One local mom has used Trail Tags as a great incentive to get her little hikers on big hikes. Laura Reese grew up earning Trail Tags sporadically when they vacationed to Estes Park and wanted to make sure her kids got a Trail Tag for each hike they completed. Their family became serious about earning and collecting Trail Tags when they moved to Estes Park six years ago. The kids love the colors around the edges of the tags to indicate the length of the trail. The Reese family has pretty strict rules about earning Trail Tags. Laura said, “In our family, to earn a Trail Tag, you have to walk to the destination and back on your own two feet. You can hold a parent’s hand, take as many “breathers” as you want, and fuel yourself on lollipops, but you can’t be carried.” With the incentive of badges, these kids have become great little hikers. “Our oldest two kids did Flattop and Hallett at the ages of six and eight, which is almost a 10-mile round trip hike. The longest hike our now 6-year-old has done was Sandbeach Lake, which is almost 9 miles round trip. Our youngest just turned 2, and her longest hike was Alberta Falls, which is 1.6 miles round trip. Our oldest two hope to earn their first gold Trail Tag this summer,” said Reese. Ways for displaying trail tags is almost as diverse as the hikes themselves. For the Reese family, each kid has his or her own bulletin board. Eventually, Reese hopes to sew them on a Rocky Mountain National Park Pendleton blanket for each child so they become a keepsake that is not outgrown. From bulletin boards, to backpacks, to bucket hats, jackets, picture frames, and pillows, countless people proudly display their Trail Tags. There is a lot that goes into planning hiking adventures, especially with little ones, so earning a patch is a reward for the whole family. Good shoes are necessary to keep kids safe while hiking. Camelbak backpacks or fun water bottles are a great way to encourage good hydration. Sunscreen and lip balm are essential in these Rocky Mountains. Bug spray is recommended, especially if a lake is your destination. A ball cap or bucket hat and jacket are always a great idea, as weather can change rapidly in the mountains. Be sure to be weather wise, always checking the forecast and finishing a hike before the threat of a storm. Keep in mind, the temperatures drop as you increase in elevation. This is known as the lapse rate, and you can expect an average of 3.5 degrees drop in temperature for every 1,000 feet of elevation gained. Collecting Trail Tags isn’t just for kids, though. Adults love the challenge as well. Charlie Garcia became passionate about earning Trail Tags at the age of 22 when he started working at the YMCA of the Rockies. Today, Charlie has earned 113 of the 124 currently available. Just last week, Charlie walked into Brownfield’s with a big smile on his face and headed straight for the Trail Tag wall. He completed the last of the blue and gold hikes, which of course, are the most strenuous. When asked, Charlie said the Trail Tag that was the hardest to earn was by far “Mummy Kill.” In order to earn the Mummy Kill patch, the hiker traverses six peaks in the Mummy Range, which is roughly 16 miles and over 5,600 feet of elevation gain.
Trail Tags range in price from $1.00 - $2.00 each, depending on where you purchase them. There are numerous establishments selling these wonderful RMNP souvenirs throughout Estes Park and Grand Lake. If you want to start a fun tradition for your family, consider collecting Trail Tags. They are a small, inexpensive way to tell a big story about your Rocky Mountain adventures. Happy hiking! You can purchase RMNP Trail Tags from these retailers: Brownfield's, Estes Park Mountain Shop, Kirk's Fly Shop, Estes Village, Never Summer Mtn Products, Outdoor World, Rams Horn Village, Scot's Sporting Goods, Village Store, and YMCA of the Rockies. Trail Tag Display Ideas: https://shopbrownfields.com/pages/trail-tag-ideas by Murray Selleck Summer Solstice: Thursday, June 20, 2024 at 2:50 pm Mountain Time. Sunrise 5:32 am. Sunset 8:31pm (depending on where you are in Colorado) Nearly 15 hours of daylight. I’m not sure where I read the idea of celebrating the summer solstice by sitting quietly, watching, and listening to this day transition from overnight dark skies to morning light. However, once I took the idea to heart I plan my Summer Solstice to do just that… to bear witness to the day’s beginning sunrise and its slow return to darkness at sunset. Certainly I could do this “ritual” any day of the year and I know it to be a good thing. It is a way to acknowledge our Earth and all its creatures and recognize our true place within the most relevant world wide web. I am one of the lucky ones. My wife and I live in a fairly remote valley with little development other than several large ranches and national forest surrounding our tiny holding. We are the outliers when it comes to acreage. No matter, it’s quiet and peaceful. And we enjoy a dark sky at night with little to no light pollution with the Milky Way spanning the night sky from horizon to horizon. We watch the constellations trace the seasons across this increasingly rare dark sky. Spring is slow to reach us. On our trips to town we watch as lower elevation aspen and cottonwood trees leaf out and we admire the new spring green these trees display only to know the aspen trees near us will barely show a hint of green for several more weeks. Snow lingers in deep drifts well into June up along the ridge lines of our valley. Summer is equally tardy to arrive as we anticipate its warmth after months of short and cold winter days. The Summer Solstice is not something we care to casually dismiss as another day on the calendar. So every June 20th or 21st we wake up and go outside while the sky is dark and there is barely a hint of visible horizon. We brew up some coffee, fill a thermos, put on a few extra layers of warm clothing, and settle into our homemade chairs in our patio rock garden to watch and listen as the day wakes up around us. The subtleness of light and sound are a wonder. The sound of the main creek running through our valley is always the first dominating sound we hear. The sound of flowing water is comforting knowing that drought can easily arrive in a matter of days at anytime. Robins are the first to add their voices to this current of sound. Stellar jays are quick to follow with their bird song version of a rusty gate hinge opening. You can’t hold a grudge against a bird for who they are or what they sound like but we are grateful when the jays move along. Woodpeckers take up the beat of the day by drumming their concussion resistant heads against our nearby forest trees. It’s easy to hear the different densities of the trees they hammer on with the pitch of their staccato rhythm. Not to be drummed out come the honks of a pair of Canada geese as they compare the virtues of the several ponds they can choose to float on. But my favorite soon follows with the jurassic sound of sandhill cranes. Even from a distance their prehistoric sound carries loud enough to make you think they are nearby standing on their stick thin legs or flying leisurely on the flaps of long slow motion wings. Our morning dark sky and few lingering stars fade to a dull sky the color of mourning doves. The sky’s deep blue color will appear as a whisper until we recognize its sudden appearance. Morning clouds catch the first hint of sunrise color and high along the ridge line across the valley sunlight hits the very top limbs of the spruce and pine forest. Sunshine arrives and the contours of the valley’s hills and dales define themselves in shadows where side creeks and springs carve their downhill watery courses. Time is slowly acknowledged as the sun continues to rise and its distinct line of light descends down the ridge towards the valley bottom. With the slow warming of the morning there is a subtle shift as the flow of air changes from humid cold air descending down a nearby creek from the north to a surprising puff of warm dry air briefly passing us arriving from the south. The change of air direction is felt on our exposed skin as lightly as the lift of bird wings moving air underneath its own flight. The first ruby throated hummingbirds buzz by at such speed we can only recognize the sound as our eyes try to keep up with their speed of flight. I do get up and bring out the sugar water feeders for them since they are so demanding. Hummingbird feeders are not kept out overnight so as to not attract black bears to our home. The day brightens. Temperatures warm. Hawks take flight. A ranch truck or two head down towards town. There is too much to do to continue this solstice awakening and the get-it-done list is always too long to be neglected. Life can get in the way of these special moments if we let it and so we find ourselves guilty of this very thing and get up and begin our work day. However, towards the end of the day as the sun sets in the west our pause in life’s daily responsibilities will again stop as we settle back into our patio garden chairs to watch and listen. The colors of the sunset becomes lowlight alpenglow and this shadowless light slowly fades into darkness. The sounds of the day become quieter. Deer slowly climb the hill to our east. A few elk dash for cover across the meadow to our south. A fox slowly one steps it nearby as she pauses and listens for any tell-tale burrowing underground. Coyotes sing-song and yip their excitement for the day’s end.
Slowly, almost one by one, until there are too many to count, stars appear above and this longest day of light comes to a close. The named constellations take form and begin to trace the short summer season towards autumn and the cold and dark days of winter to come. So we give our thanks to a Summer Solstice day and remind ourselves to remember that every day is special and unique and worthy of our acknowledgement, our witness, and gratitude, if only for a moment… by Dave Rusk It's almost the Summer Solstice, also known as the First Day of Summer. If you haven’t been out hiking by this time it’s time to get started! The daylight hours are long, the high trails in Rocky Mountain National Park are free of snow with prolific alpine flowers blooming. Here are four hikes from short and easy to long and challenging to get you out on this spectacular day of prolonged daylight. Tundra Communities Trail - 0.6 miles Want to watch the sunrise from the top of the world? Head up Trail Ridge Road to the Rock Cut parking area and get on the Tundra Communities Trail. You will need to get there early, sunrise is at 5:32am on June 20th, and you will need to be there even earlier if you want to join the picas and watch the first light hit the summit of Longs Peak. A great way to celebrate the start the summer. Be sure to bring warm clothes though, temperatures can often drop to near freezing overnight on the tundra. After watching the sunrise, head down to Grand Lake for the day. And then end your solstice day by coming back to the Tundra Communities Trail for sunset at 8:36pm. For more on this trail visit: tundra-communities-trail Mill Lake - 2.8 miles While Mills Lake is one of the very popular hikes in the Bear Lake corridor you can make it a special summer solstice evening hike after 6 pm when most visitors have gone home. Bring a thermos of tea, find a spot to settle in, and enjoy a spectacular sunset on the surrounding peaks. Plan to stay after dark and watch the full moon rise over Longs Peak (the actual full moon is on June 21 at 7:07pm). Plan to wrap up in something warm after the sun goes down and be sure to bring your headlamp for the hike out! Reminder: A timed-entry reservation is required for the Bear Lake corridor if you hike between the hours of 5am and 6pm. For more information on this trail visit: mills-lake-trail Lion Lakes Basin - 7 miles A hike to Lion Lake Basin requires a lot of day light, not just for the 14 miles out and back, but because you will want to have time to explore once you get there. The trail proper ends at Lion Lake No. 1. This is a spectacular destination on its own but after that there is Trio Falls, Lion Lake No. 2, and Snowbank Lake. Chiefs Head Peak and Mt. Alice serve as a spectacular scenic backdrop. There are no established trails to the upper lakes so travel carefully across these sensitive areas, and as always, watch the weather. All of these lakes are in the subalpine and alpine so plan and pack accordingly. For more information on this trail, visit: lion-lake-basin-trail Flattop Mtn-North Inlet Trail - 17.7 miles For the ultimate all day hike follow a trail that leads to dinner in Grand Lake. This thru-hike starts at Bear Lake and follows the Flattop trail to its broad summit before connecting with the trail to North Inlet. Be sure you have your hat, sunglasses and sunscreen as you will be traversing across the Continental Divide for a while. The trail then drops into the North Inlet drainage and eventually takes you right into downtown Grand Lake! Don't forget to make transportation arrangements to get back to Estes Park! Reminder: A timed-entry reservation is required for the Bear Lake corridor if you hike between the hours of 5am and 6pm. For more information on this trail, visit: Flattop-N.Inlet-trail Celebrate summer solstice with a sunrise or sunset hike. Wander down a mid-summer trail and find your path to be rejuvenated and re-connected with the magic of the longest day of the year. Then, make a commitment to keep wandering all summer long!
"I do wander everywhere, Swifter than the moon's sphere"~ The Bard By Jamie Palmesano from Brownfields The friendly 3:45am alarm sounds, as Brownfield’s store manager, Anne Brader, rises for another adventure in Rocky Mountain National Park with her team. Still dark and crisp outside, she fills her Nalgene bottle, loads her Camelbak backpack, and laces up her favorite pair of Salomon hiking shoes. Middle school, high school, college students, and young adults from Brownfield’s team are doing the same thing in the wee hours of the morning. A group of dedicated and devoted hikers meet at 4:30am to pile into a couple of cars and head into Rocky Mountain National Park before the 5am reservations are required. Without knowing their work schedules a month or more in advance nor being able to plan for weather, this group of committed hikers needed to adjust to the new reservation system. Before the reservation system, they could freely enter the RMNP and make hiking plans based upon their work schedules and the weather forecast. Rather than give up their special hiking tradition together, they opted to start their hikes before the break of dawn. In a digital world filled with distractions, it's remarkable to think that young people from 14 years old to their late-twenties would get up hours before most alarms sound and venture into RMNP to embrace all the glory of nature. If this weren’t impressive enough, the number of miles they log is mind-blowing. The hiking group will often hike upwards of 15 miles before they put in a full day of work at Brownfield’s. From Sky Pond, to Crystal Lake, to Sandbeach Lake, to Hallett Peak, these co-workers have forged deep friendships as they have journeyed through the forest together. They have jumped in freezing cold mountain lakes, beheld breathtaking sunrises, encountered majestic wildlife, savored rich conversations, endured a few minor injuries, and made memories that will last a lifetime. They relish in the great wilderness, hurry home to clean up and eat lunch, then start the late shift at the store helping customers, folding shirts, and happily sharing the best hiking advice around. Anne leads this group with laughter and love. Each hike embodies different experiences and represents diverse members of the team, with Anne being the perpetual constant. Every once in a while, another seasoned adult from our staff will dare to wake up before dawn and join the youthful bunch. During the 2023 season, Anne hiked 192 miles and many staff members were close behind in racking up that many miles on the trails. The pinnacle of the group’s adventures so far occurred on Sunday, July 16, 2023. Summiting Hallett Peak has become an annual tradition for our crew. Standing at 12,720 ft., Hallett Peak is an iconic mountain that provides a distinguished backdrop for Estes Park. The hike is over 10 miles round trip complete with over 3,000 feet of elevation gain. For weeks, one of our teammates, Brayden, had been planning to surprise another teammate, Meila, with a marriage proposal on top of Hallett Peak, both of them having worked and hiked together for years. With the dramatic backdrop of Longs Peak and his friends by his side, Brayden dropped to one knee and professed his commitment and love to Meila. The ring was placed on her finger with shouts of acclamation and joy ringing from the mountaintop. Snacks and drinks were served and in true Brownfield’s fashion, celebratory matching t-shirts were put on. It was a glorious moment, years in the making.
The adventure continued as these friends scrambled over rocks to get to Andrew’s Glacier. The giant white “Slip and Slide” was the perfect way to celebrate the engagement. Down they slid, one by one, laughing, smiling, screaming, living life to the full. When they arrived at Andrew’s Tarn, the bravest and boldest of the bunch, jumped in that frigid glacial lake. Sun-kissed, exhausted, hearts full, souls happy, they capped their adventure with burgers from “Baba’s,” also known as Burgers on Moraine. It was a wonderfully perfect day in every way. These are the stories of life. These are gifts from above. These are the experiences in Rocky Mountain National Park that will never be forgotten. Happy hiking! by Jason Miller This month we wanted to go on two different hikes that are EASY. After a long winter of sitting on the couch watching TV, it is best to ease back into the hiking season. We chose two hikes that are located outside the gates of Rocky Mountain National Park. You will still need to acquire a RMNP Entry Reservation (entry reservations begin May 24, 2024). The Lumpy Ridge Loop is only 1.6 miles but has some vertical gain which will get your blood pumping. Lily Lake Trail is just under one mile but is also a wonderful spot to begin your summer hiking season. Twin Owls via Lumpy Ridge Loop Located at the Gem Lake and Twin Owls parking lot you will find restrooms and the trailhead to this first hike. Scattered around the parking lot there are enormous boulders and rock features. This can provide your first photo opportunity if so desired. To begin the hike, you need to look for the sign that points to “Twin Owls Black Canyon Trail .6 miles." I suggest taking a picture of the trail map at the beginning of the hike and at the end. This gives you a time stamp and you can calculate your time on the trail. The trail starts off as a gentle climb on a pebble walkway. A few minutes into the walk we come to a sign. This sign informs us that we were crossing onto private property and that no pets are allowed on the trail. At this point you are on the MacGregor Ranch. This 3,600-acre ranch is nestled up against Rocky Mountain National Park. There are 41 structures including the ranch house, chicken house, milk shed, and “loafing shed." Be sure to stay on the trail and do not explore private buildings. Continuing, you will travel past the base of Twin Owls. Rock climber’s routes branch out in different spots along this section of The Black Canyon Trail. There are many signs along the way, but NONE have our trail name on them. Stay on the trail that points toward Gem Lake. We hugged the mountain side with fascinating views of the Rocky Mountains. When we came to a fork in the trail and a sign saying that Gem Lake is 1.2 miles away, we went right to continue our clockwise loop. At this juncture we were only .5 miles from the parking lot. Once we turned onto the last portion of the trail, it is a downhill grade all the way. Gentle switchbacks make it an easy walk down. We had a group of 6 people including two nine-year-old boys and completed the entire adventure in just over an hour. Total Distance - 1.6 miles Elevation Gain - 416 feet Average Time - 54 minutes Trail Rating - Easy to Moderate Lily Lake Trail Our second hike is one that I have always called a walk. Being a .8-mile flat loop with only 40 feet of elevation gain around a beautiful lake, most would not consider this as a worthy hike. Because of its expansive views of Longs Peek and Mount Meeker with this quaint lake in the front, we are placing it on our short list of must do hikes! Lily Lake Trailhead is located outside Estes Park on Highway 7 across the street from Twin Sisters Mountain. It was a clear day to start off and by the time we got to the trailhead the wind was blowing and temperature dropped 15 degrees. Dressing in layers ensured that we would be warm. We chose to walk around the lake counterclockwise which gave us the option of Lily Ridge Trail. If you are looking for a little harder hike, you can try this one. The entrance is only 75-100 yards up on the main trail. Look where you cross the river and there is a section of fencing. The trail is in front of the fence. This adds on .5 miles to the total route and changes the difficulty from easy to moderate. Choosing this route gives you views of Lily Lake from halfway up the side of Lily Mountain. Lily Lake Trail is a wide trail that is easily traveled no matter your ability. Strollers and wheelchair users are welcome. Today the trail is snow packed, so we needed to walk slowly and watch our footing. Walking along the north side of the lake gives you spectacular views of Longs Peak and Mount Meeker. There are a few benches sprinkled along the way that provide you with great resting opportunities and picture taking. At the far end of the lake, the landscape opens and mountains in the distance come into view. Moose sightings are rare, but they do occur in this area. Looking back across the lake toward the parking lot we could see Twin Sisters. Another massive mountain within the RMNP. Our trail continued alongside the water which gave us an opportunity to see numerous ducks. Wildlife is never far away from these great watering holes. On this side of the lake there are picnic tables so you can come, sit, and have dinner watching the sunset. Beautiful. We spent a total of 25 minutes on this easy hike. It's good to get outside, no matter the time or distance traveled. Be sure to eat a good breakfast, stretch, and plan well before hiking Rock Mountain National Park. Sunglasses, sunscreen, layers, and lunch are a must. Never forget to bring WATER! There are many options out there when it comes to hikes in the RMNP, but none this close to Estes Park with these kinds of views. Get Outside and use #HikeRocky when posting pictures on social media! All photos above by Jason Miller. Postscript: Mountain weather is tricky to predict at best. Jason went on his Lily Lake hike early May and his photos show a fair amount of snow. Dave Rusk hiked the same trail earlier on April 20th with practically dry conditions and minimal snow around Lily Lake. Proof positive it's important to keep up to date on weather and trail conditions in RMNP! Photos by Dave Rusk
Breath Book Review by Murray Selleck Breathing is a pretty natural thing. We humans average 25,000 breaths a day without even thinking about it. How would it feel, though, if we did think about each individual breath and reap the benefits of more efficient breathing? This is what I’ve been trying to practice for awhile since reading the book, BREATH - The New Science of a Lost Art, by author James Nestor. I wouldn’t call this book a scientific study or even place it in the genre of self help. However, I do find the ideas presented to be compelling and the book is an intriguing read. I should also say that the ideas presented are controversial to some, not wholly based as accepted or proven science, and the ideas regarding the healing benefits or reversing chronic illness just by changing how a person breathes are mostly anecdotal. "WITH THAT IN MIND I STILL FOUND THE IDEA OF BECOMING A BETTER AND MORE THOUGHTFUL BREATHER CONVINCING..." Nonetheless, with any book a person reads for leisure, self help, or education there will be ideas that resonate and are taken to heart or dismissed with the closing of its cover. With that in mind I still found the idea of becoming a better and more thoughtful breather convincing enough that I do practice a few of the breathing techniques presented in this book. In essence, Nestor’s book Breath, on its most basic level, touts the benefits of inhaling through the nose and exhaling out the mouth (circular breathing). Further, the longer a person inhales with even longer exhales our lung capacity will increase. He writes we have become a world of mouth breathers (inhaling and exhaling through the mouth only) to our health’s detriment. Mouth breathing has brought on a host of ailments that with circular breathing can be corrected. Nestor put himself through many breathing experiments that bordered on the extreme to painful. I admired his tenacity enduring all those self imposed tests and his willingness to travel the world in search of answers from breathing practitioners and scientists studying the subject. I believe that is what has lead me to begin my own attempts at circular breathing. I’m trying to make this change in my breathing intuitive so I don’t have to think about it whether I’m sitting in front of my computer writing or hiking up a steep trail. Another beneficial breathing concept Nestor promotes is breathing solely through the nose. “Keep your mouth shut” is one subtitle in a chapter near the end of the book. This is good advice for many of us these days. Less talking and more listening! There are a few instances in Breath that describe old and bizarre historical experiments on animals that I just as well could have done without reading. If any of those studies were to happen today the people involved would be discredited double quick. However, the inclusion of such a morbid history reinforces the idea of how long breathing has been studied. The fact is many different techniques of breathing have been practiced for centuries throughout history by many different cultures. These techniques have ebbed and flowed in style and out over time but perhaps the current interest in better breathing techniques is on an upswing again. My personal experience with changing my breathing pattern has been met with mixed results. When I am out ski touring, snowshoeing, or hiking up a steep ascent I catch myself gulping air through my mouth. After decades of breathing the way I have new breathing habits are hard to establish. But once I realize I’m gasping for air I quickly resume inhaling through my nose and exhaling through my mouth. I also try to breath only through my nose during these activities but it is a challenge. "MY NEW BREATHING PATTERN CONTROLS THE PACE AND NOT THE PACE CONTROLLING MY BREATHING!" One benefit that I have realized through circular breathing is I can maintain a very consistent pace whether backcountry skiing or hiking summer trails. My new breathing pattern controls the pace and not the pace controlling my breathing (gasp)! When I start out I am less likely to start fast and try to get away from the trailhead as quickly as I can. Part of that way-too-fast pace at the start is the excitement of getting out on a trail. With better breathing I can be more “in the moment” from the very start, be more aware of my surroundings, and feel more calm and less inclined to “cover some distance.”
Another benefit dawned on me this past winter. I consistently came home saying I was overdressed and overheated. I didn’t realize until later in the winter that by breathing “circular” I was changing my metabolism. My new breathing was making me warmer even on the coldest of winter days while I was layering up in my usual old way. I adjusted my clothing layering system and finally towards mid-winter I once again maintained a comfortable temperature during my outings. Other benefits of better breathing are reduced stress, lower blood pressure, reduced lactic acid build-up in your muscles, increased energy, improved immune system, and increase the feeling of being in the moment, present, and calm. I do recommend reading BREATH - The New Science of a Lost Art by James Nestor for those who are interested. In the Appendix of Breath, Nester offers several different breathing techniques from the basic to pretty involved. It’s all interesting and worth experimenting. So as you begin a new hiking season in Rocky Mountain National Park think about each breath you take. Are you gulping for air? Are you short of breath? Are your legs tired soon after starting? Change your breathing. Practice breathing more efficiently. All you might risk is better well being! Where do beaver live in Rocky Mountain National Park? Researchers at Colorado State University conduct occupancy surveys to answer this question. Beaver are keystone species that play a major role in wetland ecosystem health and function. Known as “ecosystem engineers,” beaver help to create and maintain important wetland complexes through dam building and foraging. Beavers were once common throughout Rocky Mountain National Park (RMNP) but their population declined dramatically during the past century due to trapping, removal, and habitat loss. Because of their role as ecosystem engineers, increasing beaver populations is an important part of wetland restoration efforts outlined in the park’s Elk and Vegetation Management Plan and the Kawuneeche Valley Restoration Collaborative (KVRC). Signs of Beaver Occupancy and Activity Current knowledge of the park’s beaver populations is limited to a handful of locations. To increase this understanding, researchers from Colorado State University are surveying the main tributaries of the Colorado River for signs of current and historic beaver activity in the Kawuneeche Valley. These occupancy surveys can help managers understand the density and distribution of both current and historic beaver populations. Signs of beaver activity include chewed stems, lodges, active and historic dams, and food caches. Signs of beaver activity from left to right: Recently chewed willow stems. A beave lodge made of sticks and mud. An active beaver dam. A food cache of aspen stems in the water. NPS Photo. Food cache photo courtesy of J. Sueltenfuss Habitat Quality Assessment Throughout the Kawuneeche Valley, the research team also documents vegetation characteristics and browse to assess the quality of beaver habitat there. Vegetation characteristics include type and proportion of shrubs present (willow, alder, and/or birch), shrub height and canopy cover, and shrub health. The amount and type of browse by beaver, elk, and moose are also documented. By comparing habitat quality data for areas with past, present, and no beaver activity, researchers may be able to predict conditions that do or do not support beaver occupancy. This information can be used by managers to inform the type and location of different wetland restoration strategies. Funding for this research comes from the Rocky Mountain Conservancy. Their support makes projects like this possible. by Scott Rashid, Director of Colorado Avian Research and Rehabilitation Institute (CARRI) There are four species of small owls that reside in and around Rocky Mountain National Park (RMNP). The Boreal Owl, Northern Saw-whet Owl, Flammulated Owl and the Northern Pygmy-Owl. All these owls are secondary cavity nesting species, which means that they need to nest in a cavity but cannot create one themselves. Therefore, they need to use an abandoned woodpecker cavity or a nest box that has been provided for them. Apart from the Flammulated Owl, these owls can be found in the area year-round. The Boreal Owl is often found in the Boreal Forest above 9000 feet, the Northern Saw-whet can be found in a multitude of habitats form just below tree line to the foothills. The Northern Pygmy-Owl has a bit more preferred habitat, as they prefer a mixed forest type that consists of aspen, fir, spruce, juniper downed logs, small openings within the forests and a water source. The diminutive Flammulated Owls winter in Mexico and nest up here where they feed primarily on insects, including moths, beetles, and crickets. The Boreal Owl feeds upon voles, mice, small birds and large insects. The Northern Saw-whet prefers deer mice but will also take a few voles and occasionally a bird or two. The Northern Pygmy-Owls have a more varied diet and consume voles, chipmunks, small to medium-sized birds, and nestlings. The Northern Flicker, the largest woodpecker in the area and is the bird that constructs the cavity that these owls prefer. Northern Flickers create a cavity that has a roughly three-inch entrance hole and is about a foot deep. That appears to be sufficient for each species to raise their families. Northern Pygmy-Owls and Northern Saw-whet Owls prefer a nest cavity that is close to water. In many cases, these birds will choose a nest that is within a few yards of a water source, which could be a creek, stream or pond. This is because both species often capture creatures as large if not larger than themselves, and often get bloody. Having a water source near their nests affords them the luxury of bathing when dirty. Clean feathers help keep the owls warm and dry. Northern Saw-whet Owls have a territory that is about 400 yards, where the Northern Pygmy-Owl has a territory that is about ¾ of a square mile. The Boreal Owl seems only to defend the nest tree and not a territory. The Flammulated Owl has a rather tiny territory as they feed upon insects that are often much more numerous and easier to capture than small birds and mammals. Male Northern Saw-whet Owls begin soliciting a female in January, and begin nesting in March. Boreal Owls often begin calling for a female in February and being nesting in March or April. The Northern Pygmy-Owl begins courtship in mid-February and start nesting in late April, early May. The Flammulated Owls Begin arriving here in Late April and begin nesting in May or June. All the owls raise between two and seven owlets. If they nest in a natural cavity, they usually raise two to three owlets, because a natural cavity frequently is so small it cannot fit more than two owlets and the adult female. If they use a nest box, which is much larger than the natural cavity, they can raise as many as seven. The young of these owls remain in their cavities for about four weeks before they fledge. After fledging they remain with their parents for about a month before moving out on their own. This movement often occurs in July or August depending upon when they hatched. Each fall, after dark, researchers around the country broadcast the calls of the owls and set up a series of mist nets to capture the owls as they move in their wintering grounds. We operate one of those research stations in RMNP where we capture and band both Northern Saw-whet Owls and Boreal Owls. The reason for banding the birds is to gain insight into where the birds move to and how long they live. Due to the birds being nomadic, we have only had three Northern Saw-whet Owls recaptured. One Northern Saw-whet Owl was banded in Pinewood Springs, about 15 miles east of Estes Park and recaptured in Estes Park two years later. Another bird was recaptured where it was banded in Estes and the third was banded in Estes and recaptured in Eastern Pennsylvania.
Except for the Flammulated Owls, the owls are vocalizing now and can be heard calling for mates. The Northern Pygmy-Owl is active during the day, and the others are active after dark. Hopefully you can get out this spring and hear/see one or more of these wonderful creatures. |
"The wild requires that we learn the terrain, nod to all the plants and animals and birds, ford the streams and cross the ridges, and tell a good story when we get back home." ~ Gary Snyder
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“Hiking -I don’t like either the word or the thing. People ought to saunter in the mountains - not hike! Do you know the origin of the word ‘saunter?’ It’s a beautiful word. Away back in the Middle Ages people used to go on pilgrimages to the Holy Land, and when people in the villages through which they passed asked where they were going, they would reply, A la sainte terre,’ ‘To the Holy Land.’ And so they became known as sainte-terre-ers or saunterers. Now these mountains are our Holy Land, and we ought to saunter through them reverently, not ‘hike’ through them.” ~ John Muir |