Elevation defines Rocky Mountain National Park, with the world of the Alpine being an exciting place to be during the month of July. This Land-Above-the-Trees is the last place winter holds its grip in the spring and the first place it descends upon in the fall. That makes summer in the alpine zone short but spectacular. The burst of little tiny flowers can change almost daily. To truly appreciate these little gems, you really need to get on your belly. 

​Now is the time to hike some high-elevation trails. Here are three hikes in Rocky Mountain National Park to enjoy this July. 

Note: As spectacular as alpine hikes are in July, it is also a time for thunder and lightening storms. So know before you go, start super early, and always be prepared to decend! For more on lightening safety tips, read more here.

A Rocky Mountain National Park classic, this hike will take you right up to the east face of Longs Peak, known as The Diamond. Waterfalls and wildflowers greet the hiker with a little bit of rock scramble on the final push to the lake.
 
For more on this trail, visit:  Chasm Lake trail

Starting at Milner Pass on Trail Ridge road, this trail quickly gains in elevation and most of the hike is spent rolling across the open tundra before making a final push for the Mt Ida summit. The views are 360 with the Never Summer Range to the west.

For more on this trail, visit: Mt Ida trail

Accessing this trail involves driving up the one-way Fall River Road to the Chapin Pass trailhead. The trail up these three summits is not maintained by the Park, so pay attention to where you are while you enjoy the thrill of tagging multiple summits. 

For more on this trail, visit: Chapin, Chiquita, Ypsilon trail

Hiking in the rarefied air of the alpine is truly a rarefied experience, and July is prime time to be there. You won't want to miss this!

by Scott Rashid, Colorado Avian Research and Rehabilitation Institute
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Now that summer is here, birds are singing, nesting and raising their young. In the winter, the common birds include Common Ravens, American Crows, Northern Pygmy-Owl, Black-billed Magpies, Mountain and Black-capped Chickadees, all three rosy-finches, the three species of nuthatches and more.

However, when the migrants begin arriving from their wintering grounds the number of bird species exponentially increase. Most of the birds that spend the winter here, also remain here year-round. There are a few species that migrate north to nest. These northern migrants include the Northern Shrike, Gray-crowned Rosy-finch, Common Redpoll, Lapland Longspur, and the Snow Bunting.

Collecting trail tags is a rocky mountain tradition.
by Jamie Palmesano, Brownfield’s
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Nicolette Sowder once said, “Children deserve to grow and learn in a place, and alongside a force, that is as wild and alive as they are.” Wild and alive is a perfect description of Rocky Mountain National Park! There is almost nothing as precious as watching the little feet of a child hike these rugged Rocky Mountain trails, outfitted with a tiny backpack, a cute ball cap, cool sunglasses, and their special water bottle.

They skip and jump, climb on rocks, talk incessantly, look for treasures, and remind us of true childhood wonder. The trails of Rocky Mountain National Park are filled with children of all ages experiencing the joy of nature and a sense of adventure. Though the journey itself is satisfying, there is something powerful about a small incentive to help those little legs reach the destination. The reward is called Trail Tags.

In 1972, Lyle and Marge from Lincoln, Nebraska, founded the company called LYMA and began creating Trail Tags, which are commemorative patches, to give hikers the perfect souvenir. Out of a sincere love for hiking the Rockies, they started a business to give hikers a literal badge of honor. Trail Tags are high quality, custom designed, hand-sewn embroidered patches for popular hiking trails. Each patch features a special graphic as well as a border color that signifies the distance of the hike.

Lyle and Marge fell in love with Estes Park and became passionate about hiking.  They believed hiking was a great way to create life long memories for yourself, your family and friends. The Trail Tags gained in popularity over the years. In the 1990’s, they sold their business to Mary Conway who continued the tradition. In 2005, Brian and Mary Shaw moved from California to Nebraska and bought the business. They have been hiking the trails of RMNP ever since and have brought many new Trail Tags to the collection.

The Shaws have updated numerous tags as well as continually added new destinations based upon customer feedback and requests. Mary said, “We love reading emails from customers who have been buying tags for years and are now passing down that tradition to their kids.”

Earning Trail Tags for Rocky Mountain National Park and surrounding destinations has become quite a hobby for many people. One local mom has used Trail Tags as a great incentive to get her little hikers on big hikes. Laura Reese grew up earning Trail Tags sporadically when they vacationed to Estes Park and wanted to make sure her kids got a Trail Tag for each hike they completed.

Their family became serious about earning and collecting Trail Tags when they moved to Estes Park six years ago. The kids love the colors around the edges of the tags to indicate the length of the trail.  The Reese family has pretty strict rules about earning Trail Tags. Laura said, “In our family, to earn a Trail Tag, you have to walk to the destination and back on your own two feet. You can hold a parent’s hand, take as many “breathers” as you want, and fuel yourself on lollipops, but you can’t be carried.”

With the incentive of badges, these kids have become great little hikers.  “Our oldest two kids did Flattop and Hallett at the ages of six and eight, which is almost a 10-mile round trip hike. The longest hike our now 6-year-old has done was Sandbeach Lake, which is almost 9 miles round trip. Our youngest just turned 2, and her longest hike was Alberta Falls, which is 1.6 miles round trip. Our oldest two hope to earn their first gold Trail Tag this summer,” said Reese.

Collecting Trail Tags isn’t just for kids, though. Adults love the challenge as well.  Charlie Garcia became passionate about earning Trail Tags at the age of 22 when he started working at the YMCA of the Rockies. Today, Charlie has earned 113 of the 124 currently available.  Just last week, Charlie walked into Brownfield’s with a big smile on his face and headed straight for the Trail Tag wall.  He completed the last of the blue and gold hikes, which of course, are the most strenuous. When asked, Charlie said the Trail Tag that was the hardest to earn was by far “Mummy Kill.” In order to earn the Mummy Kill patch, the hiker traverses six peaks in the Mummy Range, which is roughly 16 miles and over 5,600 feet of elevation gain.
 
Trail Tags range in price from $1.00 - $2.00 each, depending on where you purchase them. There are numerous establishments selling these wonderful RMNP souvenirs throughout Estes Park and Grand Lake. If you want to start a fun tradition for your family, consider collecting Trail Tags. They are a small, inexpensive way to tell a big story about your Rocky Mountain adventures.  Happy hiking!

​You can purchase RMNP Trail Tags from these retailers:
Brownfield's, Estes Park Mountain Shop, Kirk's Fly Shop, Estes Village, Never Summer Mtn Products, Outdoor World, Rams Horn Village, Scot's Sporting Goods, Village Store, and YMCA of the Rockies.

Trail Tag Display Ideas:
https://shopbrownfields.com/pages/trail-tag-ideas

by Murray Selleck

Summer Solstice: Thursday, June 20, 2024 at 2:50 pm Mountain Time.
Sunrise 5:32 am. Sunset 8:31pm (depending on where you are in Colorado)
Nearly 15 hours of daylight.

I’m not sure where I read the idea of celebrating the summer solstice by sitting quietly, watching, and listening to this day transition from overnight dark skies to morning light. However, once I took the idea to heart I plan my Summer Solstice to do just that… to bear witness to the day’s beginning sunrise and its slow return to darkness at sunset.

Certainly I could do this “ritual” any day of the year and I know it to be a good thing. It is a way to acknowledge our Earth and all its creatures and recognize our true place within the most relevant world wide web.

The subtleness of light and sound are a wonder. The sound of the main creek running through our valley is always the first dominating sound we hear. The sound of flowing water is comforting knowing that drought can easily arrive in a matter of days at anytime.

Robins are the first to add their voices to this current of sound. Stellar jays are quick to follow with their bird song version of a rusty gate hinge opening. You can’t hold a grudge against a bird for who they are or what they sound like but we are grateful when the jays move along.

Woodpeckers take up the beat of the day by drumming their concussion resistant heads against our nearby forest trees. It’s easy to hear the different densities of the trees they hammer on with the pitch of their staccato rhythm.

Not to be drummed out come the honks of a pair of Canada geese as they compare the virtues of the several ponds they can choose to float on. But my favorite soon follows with the jurassic sound of sandhill cranes. Even from a distance their prehistoric sound carries loud enough to make you think they are nearby standing on their stick thin legs or flying leisurely on the flaps of long slow motion wings.

Our morning dark sky and few lingering stars fade to a dull sky the color of mourning doves. The sky’s deep blue color will appear as a whisper until we recognize its sudden appearance. Morning clouds catch the first hint of sunrise color and high along the ridge line across the valley sunlight hits the very top limbs of the spruce and pine forest. Sunshine arrives and the contours of the valley’s hills and dales define themselves in shadows where side creeks and springs carve their downhill watery courses.

However, towards the end of the day as the sun sets in the west our pause in life’s daily responsibilities will again stop as we settle back into our patio garden chairs to watch and listen. The colors of the sunset becomes lowlight alpenglow and this shadowless light slowly fades into darkness. The sounds of the day become quieter. Deer slowly climb the hill to our east. A few elk dash for cover across the meadow to our south. A fox slowly one steps it nearby as she pauses and listens for any tell-tale burrowing underground. Coyotes sing-song and yip their excitement for the day’s end.

Slowly, almost one by one, until there are too many to count, stars appear above and this longest day of light comes to a close. The named constellations take form and begin to trace the short summer season towards autumn and the cold and dark days of winter to come.
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So we give our thanks to a Summer Solstice day and remind ourselves to remember that every day is special and unique and worthy of our acknowledgement, our witness, and gratitude, if only for a moment…

by Dave Rusk
​It's almost the Summer Solstice, also known as the First Day of Summer. If you haven’t been out hiking by this time it’s time to get started! The daylight hours are long, the high trails in Rocky Mountain National Park are free of snow with prolific alpine flowers blooming. 

​Here are four hikes from short and easy to long and challenging to get you out on this spectacular day of prolonged daylight.

Tundra Communities Trail - 0.6 miles

Want to watch the sunrise from the top of the world? Head up Trail Ridge Road to the Rock Cut parking area and get on the Tundra Communities Trail. You will need to get there early, sunrise is at 5:32am on June 20th, and you will need to be there even earlier if you want to join the picas and watch the first light hit the summit of Longs Peak. A great way to celebrate the start the summer. Be sure to bring warm clothes though, temperatures can often drop to near freezing overnight on the tundra.
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After watching the sunrise, head down to Grand Lake for the day. And then end your solstice day by coming back to the Tundra Communities Trail for sunset at 8:36pm.
For more on this trail visit: tundra-communities-trail

Mill Lake - 2.8 miles

While Mills Lake is one of the very popular hikes in the Bear Lake corridor you can make it a special summer solstice evening hike after 6 pm when most visitors have gone home. Bring a thermos of tea, find a spot to settle in, and enjoy a spectacular sunset on the surrounding peaks. Plan to stay after dark and watch the full moon rise over Longs Peak (the actual full moon is on June 21 at 7:07pm). Plan to wrap up in something warm after the sun goes down and be sure to bring your headlamp for the hike out!

Reminder: A timed-entry reservation is required for the Bear Lake corridor if you hike between the hours of 5am and 6pm.
For more information on this trail visit: mills-lake-trail

Lion Lakes Basin - 7 miles

A hike to Lion Lake Basin requires a lot of day light, not just for the 14 miles out and back, but because you will want to have time to explore once you get there. The trail proper ends at Lion Lake No. 1. This is a spectacular destination on its own but after that there is Trio Falls, Lion Lake No. 2, and Snowbank Lake. Chiefs Head Peak and Mt. Alice serve as a spectacular scenic backdrop. There are no established trails to the upper lakes so travel carefully across these sensitive areas, and as always, watch the weather. All of these lakes are in the subalpine and alpine so plan and pack accordingly.
For more information on this trail, visit: lion-lake-basin-trail

Flattop Mtn-North Inlet Trail - 17.7 miles

For the ultimate all day hike follow a trail that leads to dinner in Grand Lake. This thru-hike starts at Bear Lake and follows the Flattop trail to its broad summit before connecting with the trail to North Inlet. Be sure you have your hat, sunglasses and sunscreen as you will be traversing across the Continental Divide for a while. The trail then drops into the North Inlet drainage and eventually takes you right into downtown Grand Lake! Don't forget to make transportation arrangements to get back to Estes Park!

​Reminder: A timed-entry reservation is required for the Bear Lake corridor if you hike between the hours of 5am and 6pm. 
For more information on this trail, visit: Flattop-N.Inlet-trail

Middle school, high school, college students, and young adults from Brownfield’s team are doing the same thing in the wee hours of the morning. A group of dedicated and devoted hikers meet at 4:30am to pile into a couple of cars and head into Rocky Mountain National Park before the 5am reservations are required.

Without knowing their work schedules a month or more in advance nor being able to plan for weather, this group of committed hikers needed to adjust to the new reservation system. Before the reservation system, they could freely enter the RMNP and make hiking plans based upon their work schedules and the weather forecast.  Rather than give up their special hiking tradition together, they opted to start their hikes before the break of dawn.
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In a digital world filled with distractions, it's remarkable to think that young people from 14 years old to their late-twenties would get up hours before most alarms sound and venture into RMNP to embrace all the glory of nature. If this weren’t impressive enough, the number of miles they log is mind-blowing. The hiking group will often hike upwards of 15 miles before they put in a full day of work at Brownfield’s.

Once we turned onto the last portion of the trail, it is a downhill grade all the way. Gentle switchbacks make it an easy walk down. We had a group of 6 people including two nine-year-old boys and completed the entire adventure in just over an hour.

Total Distance - 1.6 miles
Elevation Gain - 416 feet
Average Time - 54 minutes
Trail Rating - Easy to Moderate

Lily Lake Trail
Our second hike is one that I have always called a walk. Being a .8-mile flat loop with only 40 feet of elevation gain around a beautiful lake, most would not consider this as a worthy hike. Because of its expansive views of Longs Peek and Mount Meeker with this quaint lake in the front, we are placing it on our short list of must do hikes! Lily Lake Trailhead is located outside Estes Park on Highway 7 across the street from Twin Sisters Mountain.

Breath Book Review by Murray Selleck

Breathing is a pretty natural thing. We humans average 25,000 breaths a day without even thinking about it. How would it feel, though, if we did think about each individual breath and reap the benefits of more efficient breathing? This is what I’ve been trying to practice for awhile since reading the book, BREATH - The New Science of a Lost Art, by author James Nestor.

I wouldn’t call this book a scientific study or even place it in the genre of self help. However, I do find the ideas presented to be compelling and the book is an intriguing read. I should also say that the ideas presented are controversial to some, not wholly based as accepted or proven science, and the ideas regarding the healing benefits or reversing chronic illness just by changing how a person breathes are mostly anecdotal.

One benefit that I have realized through circular breathing is I can maintain a very consistent pace whether backcountry skiing or hiking summer trails. My new  breathing pattern controls the pace and not the pace controlling my breathing (gasp)! When I start out I am less likely to start fast and try to get away from the trailhead as quickly as I can. Part of that way-too-fast pace at the start is the excitement of getting out on a trail. With better breathing I can be more “in the moment” from the very start, be more aware of my surroundings, and feel more calm and less inclined to “cover some distance.”

Another benefit dawned on me this past winter. I consistently came home saying I was overdressed and overheated. I didn’t realize until later in the winter that by breathing “circular” I was changing my metabolism. My new breathing was making me warmer even on the coldest of winter days while I was layering up in my usual old way. I adjusted my clothing layering system and finally towards mid-winter I once again maintained a comfortable temperature during my outings.

Other benefits of better breathing are reduced stress, lower blood pressure, reduced lactic acid build-up in your muscles, increased energy, improved immune system, and increase the feeling of being in the moment, present, and calm.

I do recommend reading BREATH - The New Science of a Lost Art by James Nestor for those who are interested. In the Appendix of Breath, Nester offers several different breathing techniques from the basic to pretty involved. It’s all interesting and worth experimenting.

So as you begin a new hiking season in Rocky Mountain National Park think about each breath you take. Are you gulping for air? Are you short of breath? Are your legs tired soon after starting? Change your breathing. Practice breathing more efficiently. All you might risk is better well being!

Signs of beaver activity from left to right: Recently chewed willow stems. A beave lodge made of sticks and mud. An active beaver dam. A food cache of aspen stems in the water. NPS Photo. Food cache photo courtesy of J. Sueltenfuss

by Scott Rashid,
Director of Colorado Avian Research and Rehabilitation Institute (CARRI)

There are four species of small owls that reside in and around Rocky Mountain National Park (RMNP). The Boreal Owl, Northern Saw-whet Owl, Flammulated Owl and the Northern Pygmy-Owl. All these owls are secondary cavity nesting species, which means that they need to nest in a cavity but cannot create one themselves. Therefore, they need to use an abandoned woodpecker cavity or a nest box that has been provided for them.

Apart from the Flammulated Owl, these owls can be found in the area year-round. The Boreal Owl is often found in the Boreal Forest above 9000 feet, the Northern Saw-whet can be found in a multitude of habitats form just below tree line to the foothills. The Northern Pygmy-Owl has a bit more preferred habitat, as they prefer a mixed forest type that consists of aspen, fir, spruce, juniper downed logs, small openings within the forests and a water source.
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The diminutive Flammulated Owls winter in Mexico and nest up here where they feed primarily on insects, including moths, beetles, and crickets. The Boreal Owl feeds upon voles, mice, small birds and large insects. The Northern Saw-whet prefers deer mice but will also take a few voles and occasionally a bird or two. The Northern Pygmy-Owls have a more varied diet and consume voles, chipmunks, small to medium-sized birds, and nestlings.

The Northern Flicker, the largest woodpecker in the area and is the bird that constructs the cavity that these owls prefer. Northern Flickers create a cavity that has a roughly three-inch entrance hole and is about a foot deep. That appears to be sufficient for each species to raise their families.

Northern Pygmy-Owls and Northern Saw-whet Owls prefer a nest cavity that is close to water. In many cases, these birds will choose a nest that is within a few yards of a water source, which could be a creek, stream or pond. This is because both species often capture creatures as large if not larger than themselves, and often get bloody. Having a water source near their nests affords them the luxury of bathing when dirty. Clean feathers help keep the owls warm and dry.
 
Northern Saw-whet Owls have a territory that is about 400 yards, where the Northern Pygmy-Owl has a territory that is about ¾ of a square mile. The Boreal Owl seems only to defend the nest tree and not a territory. The Flammulated Owl has a rather tiny territory as they feed upon insects that are often much more numerous and easier to capture than small birds and mammals.

Male Northern Saw-whet Owls begin soliciting a female in January, and begin nesting in March. Boreal Owls often begin calling for a female in February and being nesting in March or April. The Northern Pygmy-Owl begins courtship in mid-February and start nesting in late April, early May. The Flammulated Owls Begin arriving here in Late April and begin nesting in May or June.
 
All the owls raise between two and seven owlets. If they nest in a natural cavity, they usually raise two to three owlets, because a natural cavity frequently is so small it cannot fit more than two owlets and the adult female. If they use a nest box, which is much larger than the natural cavity, they can raise as many as seven.

The young of these owls remain in their cavities for about four weeks before they fledge. After fledging they remain with their parents for about a month before moving out on their own. This movement often occurs in July or August depending upon when they hatched.
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Each fall, after dark, researchers around the country broadcast the calls of the owls and set up a series of mist nets to capture the owls as they move in their wintering grounds. We operate one of those research stations in RMNP where we capture and band both Northern Saw-whet Owls and Boreal Owls.

The reason for banding the birds is to gain insight into where the birds move to and how long they live. Due to the birds being nomadic, we have only had three Northern Saw-whet Owls recaptured. One Northern Saw-whet Owl was banded in Pinewood Springs, about 15 miles east of Estes Park and recaptured in Estes Park two years later. Another bird was recaptured where it was banded in Estes and the third was banded in Estes and recaptured in Eastern Pennsylvania.
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Except for the Flammulated Owls, the owls are vocalizing now and can be heard calling for mates. The Northern Pygmy-Owl is active during the day, and the others are active after dark. Hopefully you can get out this spring and hear/see one or more of these wonderful creatures.

by Scott Rashid
To see and read more from Scott visit his website Colorado Avian Research and Rehabilitation Institute 

There are birds that spend the winter in Rocky Mountain National Park (RMNP), including Townsend’s Solitaires, Black-billed Magpies, Pygmy Nuthatches, Clark’s Nutcrackers, American Robins, Canada Jays, rosy-finches, and Common Ravens. Several species leave the park to spend the winter in Estes Park to find bird feeders, often staying near them feeding until spring.
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As Spring arrives, many avian species begin arriving in the area. Over the years, there have been more than 300 species documented either passing through Estes Park and RMNP, or nesting there. We are very familiar with many of these including Black-Billed Magpies, Steller’s Jays, House Finches, Cassin’s Finches, Cooper’s Hawks, Pine Siskins, Lesser Goldfinches and more.

There are many areas in and around the park where multiple species can be seen. One of the best locations to see birds is Lake Estes and the surrounding area. On the west end of Lake Estes is a bird sanctuary where more than 305 species have been documented.  Many of those use the sanctuary for resting and feeding before moving off to their nesting grounds, others will nest there.

The list of birds that simply pass through in the spring includes Tundra and Trumpeter Swans, Blue-winged Teal, Rudy Duck, Redhead, Killdeer, Bobolink, American Dipper, Sharp-shinned Hawk, MacGillivray’s Warbler, Orange-crowned Warbler, Franklin’s Gull, Ring-billed Gull, California Gull, Wilson’s Snipe, Peregrine Falcon, Prairie Falcon,  Eastern and Western Kingbird, Roug-winged Swallow, and many more.
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Lake Estes and the surrounding area including the dog park, golf course and the marina are great places to search for birds of different species. For example, species including Sandhill Cranes, Killdeer, Long-billed Curlews, Prairie Falcons, Red-tailed Hawks, Savanah, Lincoln’s, White crowned and White-throated Sparrows, are frequently seen on the golf course. Common Loons, Western Grebes, Clark’s Grebes, Wilson’s Phalaropes, Spotted Sandpipers, White-faced Ibis’ and Canvasbacks have been seen from the marina swimming in the lake.

The baseball field, playground, and dog park are good for sparrows, including Lark Buntings, Clay-colored Sparrows, Brewer’s Sparrows, Painted Buntings, Lazuli Buntings, Western Meadowlarks, Gray Catbirds, Brewer’s Blackbirds, Yellow-headed Blackbirds and Mockingbirds.

The species that nest in the sanctuary include Cedar Waxwings, American Robins, Canada Geese, Mallards, Pygmy Nuthatches, Common Grackles, Pine Siskins, Warbling Vireos, and Spotted Sandpipers.  The waterfowl (ducks and geese) often nest on the ground near the water, the waxwings nest along the river, the nuthatches construct their cavities in the trees along the creek and the American Robins and Warbling Vireos construct new nests yearly in different locations.

Within RMNP, many species of raptors migrate through. These include Swainson’s Hawks, Ferruginous Hawks, Golden Eagles, Bald Eagles, Broad-winged Hawks Merlins, and American Kestrels. Other species that move through the park include warblers like the Bay-breasted Warbler, Palm Warbler, Blackpoll Warbler, Magnolia Warbler and more. 

Other species that have been documented passing through include American White Pelicans, Double-crested Cormorants, Franklin’s Gulls, Marbled Godwits, Bonaparte’s Gulls, Common Goldeneye, Lazuli Buntings, Lark Buntings, Harris’s Sparrows, and Gray Catbirds.

The area has had multiple rarities seen including the Baltimore Oriole, Black-throated Sparrow, Black Phoebe, Hooded Warbler, Prothonotary Warbler, Great-crested Flycatcher, Common Redpoll, Summer Tanager, Rusty Blackbird, Painted Bunting, Eastern Bluebird, Yellow-billed Cuckoo, Lesser Nighthawk and the Golden-crowned Sparrow.
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Birds have wings and fly very well, which often means that a rare species can show up almost anywhere. As many rare birds have been seen in and around Estes and RMNP. It is a good idea to get out and search for birds, you may find something rare.

by Murray Selleck

Snow is the lifeblood of Colorado. It is the surface of our winter playground and it is the source of our springtime and summer water. Without snow, Colorado itself (and lots of other western states) would be impossible!

All snow is good and there are all kinds of it. No matter how it falls, or floats, or gets blown from the sky we need every flake. However, just because all snow is good doesn’t mean all snow is easy. Some snow is difficult if not outright dangerous. Heavy wet spring snow is tough to shovel and when snow layers pile up on top of one another avalanches are a constant hazard, especially in Colorado.

The good news is more times than not snow is fun, beautiful, and inspiring. Fun with all its options to go out and play in it. Beautiful in the way it changes color when its surface reflects the light from our sunrises and sunsets. And inspiring in the way that your imagination can run with possibilities. Snowmen, snow caves, snow forts, igloos, and snow sculptures all show how creative and malleable snow can be.
 
Snow is not monolithic. There is not one kind of snow and it is constantly changing as it falls, as the wind blows, or as temperatures rise and fall. With those thoughts in mind here is a list of snow types, conditions, and a bit of winter time slang that you may encounter in Rocky Mountain National Park. What follows is our best attempt at naming all the different kinds of snow we could think of and a brief sentence on how to use it in a conversation.

The food group of defined snow:
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Corn snow is typically found in springtime after a few freeze/thaw cycles. Clear starry nights with bone cold temperatures followed by warm spring-like temperatures will form corn snow. Early in the morning the snow will be crusty hard but as the sun works its magic the crust layer loosens. It is this thin loose layer on top that is corn snow. It becomes easy to ski since it is so carvy and the firm crust underneath supports your weight so you won’t break through.
“We harvested that corn like it was nobody’s business!”
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Sugar snow is found deep within the snowpack often right at ground level. The earth gives off heat even in the dead of winter and the first few snowfalls of the season often transform into an incredibly weak, sugary layer that will not bond to itself or anything else for that matter. It may also be referred to as rotten snow due to its loose nature. You’ll sink right through it if you find a pocket of it close enough to the surface.
“This sugar snow ain’t sweet.” 

Chowder is a mixed bag of wet, clumpy, and really thick snow. Homemade chowder is good eating but chowder snow is nasty skiing. You have to show a great deal of determination to keep your skis going the direction you want them to. Skis tend to deflect off chowder snow sending you and your skis in different directions!
“This chowda sucks!” (Say it like you’re from Maine).

Mashed potatoes snow is similar to chowder in that both snow types are thick and heavy. The only good news is mashed potatoe snow is a bit more consistent but no less energy draining.
“Nothing but mashed potatoes and no gravy today.”

Butter snow is dreamy. Think of a hot knife slicing through butter in your kitchen. Then think of a pair of skis slicing through a layer of snow so easy all you can imagine is carving butter. As with skiing and French cooking butter is an essential ingredient.
“It was sooo good. It was butter!”
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Champagne snow is synonymous with the Steamboat Ski Resort. Champagne snow is some of the driest fluffiest snow on earth. Other definitions of this type of snow are listed below including blower. Snow so light all you have to do to clean your windshield is blow and viola, your done!
“Champagne don’t make me crazy.”

 The Soft Stuff:

Powder snow is the friendliest. Light and soft and the deeper the better. Easy to ski through, easy to break trail through whether on skis or snowshoes, easy to shovel, and easy to exaggerate its depth.
“36 inches easy. In places I bet the powder was up to here!” (Lift your hand up as far up as you can above your head).

Fluff is powder snow… so fluffy it almost doesn’t fall from the sky it is so light.

Blower snow is mentioned above with champagne snow. Blower snow can leave a snowy airborne contrail behind a skier as he or she is making turns. So light and blower it becomes airborne a second or third or fourth time!
“I sneezed and my windshield cleaned itself… it was blower.”

Der is short for powder.
“There's der in those woods!”

Freshies is slang for fresh snow that has fallen overnight.
“Freshies are the best!”
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Pow Pow is when you just can’t think of another description for powder snow.
"Nothing’s greater than rippin’ (making turns in) pow pow!”

The Tough Snow Conditions. Mean snow. Unforgiving snow:

Crud snow is just as it sounds. Cruddy, chopped, inconsistent, and windblown all together at once.
“I can’t ski this crud. I’m going home.”

Mank is another name for cruddy snow. Mank has a wetter and heavier element to it beyond just cruddy. Mank is thick and not funny snow.
“I can’t ski this mank. No joke. I’m going home.”

Sierra cement could be used for home construction right up until the sun shines. Before then sierra cement is the most humid, wet, and thick snow to fall from the sky. While the Sierra Mountains made this snow type infamous it can fall just about anywhere in the mountains if the conditions are right. Three feet of sierra cement could fall overnight and you would still only ski the top few inches of it because of how thick it is.
“This sierra cement is a poor man’s champagne.”
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Suncupped snow is amazing to look at and tough to ski tour or snowshoe over. Think of an empty egg carton… the side that holds the eggs. The deep depressions with curved upped peaks defines suncupped snow nicely. Suncups form in the spring and typically are found on large snowfields. They are a challenge to hike through or ski over since the uneven surface with potentially deep pockets and substantial ridges inhibit an easy stride or surface to balance on.
“Suncups suck but they’re amazing to look at.”

Snow on the Surface:

Hoarfrost are some of the most beautiful snow crystals to be seen. It is worth one's while to look at hoarfrost crystals closely. They occur in an intricate variety of forms. Some of the most beautiful hoarfrost appears like leaves of a fern or feathers from a bird. Hoarfrost can develop on the snowpack surface, tree branches, ski poles left outside, pretty much anywhere. It forms on the ground by direct condensation at temperatures below freezing. See photo above.
"A hoarfrost is beautiful to see but it is also the next weakest layer once new snow buries it."
​
Crust forms after sunny warm days followed by freezing nights. Crusts are typically found on south facing slopes, or certainly, where the sun shines brightest including open meadows. Crust snow is very loud snow as you travel over it. If a strong enough crust forms that will support your weight it can be quite fun to ski. Nordic skate skiers will ski a backcountry crust for miles on end and have a blast. Timing is everything since once the day warms up your solid crust may become thick like a slushy.
“Nothing beats a great spring crust day.”
 
Breakable or Fry-able crust is a nasty crust. The crust layer may support you up to a moment, typically just as your confidence builds, only to have it give way underneath you. You may rasp your shin against the crust that remains as it rakes into your legs. It can hurt. It’s worse than snow snakes in powder because of the painful element to your lower legs. Once you have broken through a crust it is tough to regain your balance and get back on top because it will only giveaway again.
“This breakable crust is like the worst *&^#{!!  yuck I've ever tried to ski!”

Dust on crust is when a light snow has fallen overnight on a crusty snow layer. There really isn’t enough snow to make it carvable or to quiet the loud crunch underneath your skis or snowshoes. Dust on crust considered a why bother snow?
“Coma se coma saw… it’s just dust on crust.”
 
Windblown and Spindrift are just as the name suggests. Windblown snow races along the surface creating solid drifts and filling in snowshoe and ski trails until they completely disappear. Windblown snow and spindrift can hurt when it hits you in the face. Little stinging shards of icy snow will have you trying to moonwalk to keep your face out of the wind. On the other hand spindrift can beautiful as it catches sunlight and become tiny airborne rainbows.
1st skier - “This spindrift hurts my face!” 2nd skier - "Your face hurts my face, too!"
 
Bullet proof is similar to a crust snow only this snow is so hard it feels like it could stop a bullet. Bullet proof snow can be formed by freeze/thaw cycles or a hard wind or a long duration between snowstorms. It is so hard you can’t even kick step your way up a slope and climbing skins on your skis are borderline ineffective.
“Ice axes and crampons are the way to go when its bullet proof.”

Falling Snow:

Charlie Brown Snow. There is a scene in a Charlie Brown Christmas when Charlie and Linus and walking to the Christmas tree lot. Snow is falling so lightly you can practically count the snowflakes as they descend. This kind of snow falls with no trace of wind and falls gracefully, smoothly, slowly, magically.
“I love that scene in a Charlie Brown Christmas with the snow falling and a nice mellow jazzy riff as a background soundtrack."

Wind driven, stinging, white out, or blizzard snow can be horrible to be out in. These kind of snows are horizontal snow. It is blowing so hard the snow has zero chance of landing. Of course, it will accumulate somewhere and that will typically be in your ears, nose, eyes, against your back and legs pretty much everywhere you don’t want it to be.
1st person, “I can’t hear or see you!” 2nd person, “What did you say? I can’t even see you!”

Silver dollar snow are snowflakes that are as big or bigger than silver dollars. They’re huge. Typically silver dollar snow falls in the spring as remnants as a storm is on its way out.
“If I had a silver dollar for each of those flakes I could _____ (fill in the blank).”

Graupel is a kind of styrofoamy hail but it is softer than hail and never becomes as big as hail can become. I once had the pleasure of skiing in the backcountry down a slope with practically a foot of graupel. Very unusual to see that much accumulation but really fun to ski. Graupel is a mix of snow crystals and ice but softer and styrofoamy.
"I usually don't grovel about graupel but today I'll make an exception."
 
Snirt and Snain. Are these even real snowflakes? Snirt is snow mixed with dirt. In Colorado the dirty snow that falls can come from the Utah desert or even as far as the Gobi desert. The unfortunate fact about snirt is come springtime dirty snow melts faster than clean snow. Dirty snow can shorten the spring runoff time reducing the amount of moisture that soaks into the ground versus just running off downstream. Snain is snow mixed with rain. Talk about yuck. It is neither snow or rain it is just wet and miserable.
"Snirt, snain, burp, snort, poop... It kinda is all the same thing."

This sums up our snow effort. March can be a banner month for adding to our snowpack. Typically, it is a warmer month so the snow that falls is wetter and heavier. But as we said at the outset... All snow is good snow so the more snow the better. No matter what you call it!

by Marlene Borneman

​"Go to the winter woods: listen there, look, watch, and “the dead months” will give you a subtler secret than any you have yet found in the forest." Fiona Macleod, Where the Forest Murmurs

The name Wild Basin dates back to the early days of Enos and Joe Mills. Wild Basin is the southeastern section of Rocky Mountain National Park and designated as wilderness. It holds the headwaters of the North St. Vrain River and is filled with many lakes, creeks, and waterfalls. It is also home to a number of the most remote and rugged high peaks in the park. Wild Basin is indeed wild!
​

Sandbeach Trail January  4, 2024 - Little to no snow describes the beginning of the Sandbeach Lake trail early this year. In fact, there was no need for snowshoes or even microspikes until about 1.5 miles up the trail. Icy spots were manageable and in many places the trail was bare. The start of the trail is on the south facing slopes of a moraine exposing it to the sun. Nonetheless, I found the lack of snow very unusual for January. 

Meeker Park Junction
Approximately 1.5 miles up the trail we reach the Meeker Park Junction. At this point we hiked west where the trail follows a north facing slope.  Here the snow became significant in the trees; however, the trail was well packed requiring only microspikes to be worn. It was very pleasant hiking along this section traveling through a thick conifer forest and aspen groves. Soon, we cross Campers Creek on a short foot bridge.  
​

Hunters Creek at 3.2 miles
At 3.2 miles we cross Hunters Creek over another foot bridge. Hunters Creek is a dazzling stream in any season. The winter snows and frigid temperatures transform this creek to a magical scene adorned with dramatic ice crystals and snow sculptures. In summer months its banks are decorated with spectacular wildflowers! At this point the trail becomes steeper and we begin the climb toward the Sandbeach Lake.

 Sandbeach Lake
Sandbeach Lake sits at 10,283 feet. This destination is very popular in summer months as it hosts four individual campsites and one group site. The shoreline is just as its namesake implies. A beautiful serene setting surrounded by fine sand and large boulders complete with spectacular views. To the south St. Vrain and Meadow Mountains with massive Copeland Mountain capturing the scene. To the north there are views of Mount Meeker and Longs Peak. Be cautious about walking out on the lake even on the coldest of days as it is often not completely frozen.

The author enjoying lunch at Sandbeach Lake
A Snickers  bar is a favorite for lunch. Easy and light to carry with little trash to pack out. Winter months offer solitude in Wild Basin. Moose are often seen at the lake and wandering the trail. On this day we did not see any wildlife including no birds. This is rare as the Gray Jay aka “camp robber” is typically all over the place or rather all over your lunch!

Sandbeach Lake:
Sandbeach Lake elevation:  10,283
Round trip from Sandbeach Lake Trailhead:  8.4 miles
​Elevation gain:  1,943

 "A National Park is a fountain of life. It is a matchless potential factor for good in national life. It holds within in its magic realm benefits that are health giving, educational, economic, that further efficiency and ethical relations and are inspirational. Without parks and outdoor life, all that is best will be smothered. Within National Parks is room, glorious room, room in which to think and hope, to dream and plan, to rest and resolve. This is the proudest moment of my life. I have lived to see the realization of a great dream come true. The day is at hand when these wonderful hills and matchless valleys are to be the playground of the world." Enos Mills. Founding Father of Rocky Mountain National Park. Quote from the Day of Dedication establishing RMNP. 1915

​I fell in love with Rocky Mountain National Park in 1971 when I worked a summer at Cheley Colorado Camps. I spent the next 47 years trying to make the Estes Park area my permanent residence. During those years, Rocky was always "home" to me in my heart. For the past 10 years, I have been able to call Rocky not only the home of my heart but the home of my daily life. Helping to preserve beautiful landscapes and wildlife habitat as a steward of the park is my true love. Karla H - NSCU Education

I remember being 6 years old. My family drove to Rocky Mountain National Park each summer when we were kids. We would set up a tent at Glacier Basin campground in the late 1950s and early 1960s. No reservation needed. We would spend 2 weeks each summer hiking the same trails that I now enjoy as a retired, 71-year-old. I moved to Estes Park in 2016. I hike every day that it is safe for hiking. I have every trail tag I can get except for summiting Longs Peak and the hikes that require ropes and/or an overnight on the trail. I get goose bumps every day I drive in to the park. - Kathy Granas, Estes Park resident and hiker.

 Rocky Mountain National Park is like the partner you constantly can't believe you're lucky enough to be with. Its stunning beauty is the backdrop to our lives, and its recreational opportunities feed our souls and make us feel complete. We're so fortunate to have Rocky in our big backyard and we're thankful every day! Rachel Ward Oppermann - Director of Advocacy and Sustainability at Visit Estes Park.

My Beloved Rocky Mountain National Park

Why I’m in love with Rocky.  In 1974 Rocky changed my lifestyle forever!  From 1974-1976 I hiked, climbed, skied, snowshoed in Rocky more days than not. Then came a career, however I always made time to spend in Rocky Mountain National Park.  This Park defines who I am from wildflowers to summits and the  best thing Rocky Mountain National Park gave me was life-long friendships. Marlene Borneman, Author, Mountaineer, Naturalist, Backcountry Skier, and Estes Park resident.

I've written before how I had lost interest in national parks for a very long time. The news reports of visitors behaving badly with wildlife, long lines of traffic, and packed parking lots only confirmed I wanted no part of that scene. However, it was reconnecting with a friend, and going on a multi-day backpacking trip into Rocky Mountain National Park that made me realize how mistaken I had been. Seeing and feeling the grandeur and beauty of RMNP's backcountry after such a long time was overwhelming. How could I have stayed away for so long?

My Valentine thoughts go out to all of RMNP's Rangers, staff, volunteers, and visitors that love RMNP as much as each of us do. Thank you for caring for our national treasure. Thank you for  acknowledging its importance to our world and all that this park offers: beauty beyond measure, solitude and sanctuary, peace and quiet, reflection, and inspiration. Murray Selleck - Rocky Mountain Day Hikes contributor, skier, snowshoer, hiker, and backpacker. 

​Oh Rocky, My Rocky (with apologies to the Bard)

Oh Rocky, my Rocky
How do I embrace thee?

I love thy terrain and elevation
Thy montane, subalpine, and alpine

I roam beneath your budding aspen in springtime,
Their quaking leaves of summertime,
Their illumination of brilliant yellow, rich gold, and
Autumn shades of orange.

I meander beneath your towering Ponderosa Pines of the montane,
Your snow-laden Engelmann Spruce glens of the the subalpine,
Your gnarled and twisted Limber Pines 
Clinging to the rock outcrops in the windswept terrain

I close my eyes and soak in the radiant rays of sunlight
beside your icy lakes, your glassy lakes, your Lake of Glass, 
Your Lion Lakes and Spectacle Lakes, Your Odessa and Spirit Lakes.

I long to rest along your clear and cold, babbling Boulder Brook, 
Your Icy Brook, your Roaring Fork and Roaring River,
To feel the exhilaration and force of your Grace Falls, 
Your Timberline Falls, Your Cascade Falls, Your Thousand Falls

I love to listen to the spring song of the Green-tailed Towhee
To dream of the Dark-eyed Junco, 
To marvel at the agility of the Pygmy Nuthatch, and
To gaze at the sharp eyed Mountain Chikadee-dee-dee,

With adoration I outstare the Stellers Jay and the Clark’s Nutcraker, 
I soar aloft with Birds of Prey and dance to the rhythm of the American Dipper,
I spy the hidden White-tailed Ptarmigan in summer and winter, 
I follow the fluttering Mountain Bluebird in the early spring and
Ruby-throated Hummingbird appraising the mid-summer flowers.
I am over-joyed to give ear to the solitary song of the White-crowned Sparrow 
As I approach the hushed sound of Crystal Lake lying beneath Fairchild Mtn.

I knell to honor your Fairyslipper, your Snow-lily, and your Elephantella,
I sing praise to your Colorado Columbine, your Parry Primrose, and your Mountain Iris, 
I bow bedazzled before your Alpine Forget-me-not, your Old-Man-of-the-Mountain, and 
Your Arctic Gentian, 
I wish to be the buzzing Bumble bee probing the depths of the glorious Golden Banner.

How can I not be astonished by the bugling bull Elk, and the head-butting bighorn,
How can I not wonder about the elusive black bear and the stealthy mountain lion,
How can I not grin at the spectacle of the Least Chipmunk, the Chickaree, and the Abert’s Squirrel.
How can I not adore the hairy feet of the Snowshoe hare and the rounded ears of the Pika.

My eyes lift upward in spiritual wonderment at your jagged peaks that divide a continent,
With awe I am inspired by the Ypsilon Mtn, the Pagoda Mtn, and the Notchtop Mtn.
I ponder the miraculous centuries of creation of the Little Matterhorn, the Spearhead, and the Hayden Spire,
I long for Longs Peak giving its Diamond to Mt Lady Washington.

Oh Rocky, my Rocky,
Rocky of the masses,
Rocky of the ages,
What a rogue and peasant slave am I.
I am that merry wanderer of the trail.
A merrier hour was never wasted.

Dave Rusk, rockymountaindayhikes.com & Hike Rocky Magazine publisher, hiker, backpacker, photographer, Estes Park resident, RMNP volunteer and philosopher. 

by Marlene Bornean
(Editor's Note: This article compares winters from 2020 through 2023 with photos showing a variety of conditions and what you can encounter while hiking up to and summiting Flat Top Mountain in Rocky Mountain National Park.

Rocky Mountain National Park provides year round recreational opportunities. In winter months back-country skiing, snowshoeing, ice skating and trekking on spikes are popular activities. With increasing winter visitation in Rocky the trails are often packed down enough spikes are the only equipment needed on popular trails. I prefer to ski the trails when the snow conditions are prime. My husband, Walt, and I are out in all weather and all conditions since Rocky is our backyard.

One must be equipped and prepared in any season but particularity in winter months.  Being familiar with the Ten Essentials as well as packing layers is the key to having a safe and fun winter experience. Knowing when to turn back is a “must” skill.

November 3, 2021 was very cold with extreme winds on the Flattop trail. We hiked above treeline but did not make the summit due to the harsh conditions. A frigid day with an unforeseen surprise, spotting a covey of white-tailed Ptarmigans on the snow covered tundra. I heard them before seeing them. Their clucking, soft hoots caused me to stop and search for tiny black eyes and bills in the pure white snow. I saw one, then two, then over a dozen in the deep snow.

White-tail ptarmigans are the only birds to live on the alpine tundra year round with white plumage in winter and gray-brown in summer. Breeding males have a red eye comb. In winter months they use snow drifts for shelter and sustained themselves on willow buds. White-tailed ptarmigans have a thick layer of feathers on their legs, feet and toes not only adding warmth but acting like snowshoes. The day reminded me of a quote by John Muir, “…the blessings of one mountain day; whatever his fate, long life, short life, stormy or calm, his is rich forever.”
​

This is me (Marlene) at the summit of Flat Top Mountain. What a contrast in weather conditions compared to one year earlier! This is a comparatively warm windless day on the summit. Nearly one year earlier, on the same mountain, we experienced significant cold and challenging wind (see the very top photo of this article). And isn't that why we keep coming back? Our mountain experiences, even on the same summit, are never the same but always wonderful. 

December 2023. Another very cold winter day on the Flattop Mountain trail.  However, we did not have much wind until we reached treeline. No sightings of ptarmigans but their tracks where everywhere!  

December 21, 2023. This day did not reveal ptarmigans, but another creature known to the alpine tundra: the fascinating pika. Even though they belong to the rabbit family they appear more like a guinea pig! Pikas live in colonies on talus slopes making their homes among the rocks. They do not hibernate. They simply tolerate the harsh winters.

In summer months you may see them harvesting their favorite food, alpine avens. Pikas store avens and other plants in “hay” piles deep in their rocky homes. They feed on these “hay” piles all winter. Sharp squeaks are their way of  communicating to other pikas and alerting to danger. On this day we observed a pika quietly sheltering against a large boulder from the fierce strong winds.

Dusty grouse are often seen in the subalpine forest on the Flattop Mountain Trail. Grouse are rather large birds weighing up to three pounds. They have a pale gray band on a rounded tail. Dusky grouse enjoy the high country in winter and in spring move down slightly to lower meadows for nesting.

Every winter season is different as is every day is in the high country of RMNP. So far, this 2023/2024 winter season has been lacking snow. Here the trail has a thin covering of packed snow. No need for snowshoes just spikes for traction.

These two photos show arctic conditions and strong gale force winds sculpturing snow into fine art during the winters of 2021 and 2023..

This overlook makes for a great second breakfast or snack stop. It provides shelter before reaching treeline with a stunning view of Emerald Lake below, Mills Lake in the distance and the striking Longs Peak massif. During the winter of 2020, as soon as I stopped at  Emerald Lake Overlook, a curious and rather bold pika came right up to my boot!

Flat Top Mountain and Flat Top Mountain Trail
Flattop elevation:  12,324
Round Trip from Bear Lake:  8.8 miles
Elevation gain:  2,874 

Winter is magical. It is awe inspiring and... mythical. Some of the mythical part comes from people believing in lots of misconceptions about winter. These wintertime myths keep far too many people cooped up indoors. Repeated often enough folks believe these myths to be true and they wind up resenting winter or worse, hating it. Their misery only intensifies as the days become shorter and the snow deeper. Symptoms like seasonal affective disorder (sad), boredom, depression, and lethargy are no way to live. The cure is to not believe everything you hear about winter.

At Rocky Mountain Day Hikes we love winter and all it has to offer. So as we debunk as many of these myths we can think of put on your warm clothes, hat, jacket and gloves. Grab your snowshoes or skis and lets get outside and enjoy winter for all its worth!  ​

​Myth: XC skiing and snowshoeing are boring. False. “We just went for a snowshoe tour.” I use to hear this disparaging remark often when I worked retail in a mountain shop. This phrase, with the emphasis on "just" discounts these activities as if the only worthy winter sport is downhill skiing. In fact, xc skiing and snowshoeing are equally as exciting or even more so. Hands down these two winter activities provide a major boost to your overall physical and mental health. They provide a great cardiovascular workout increasing heart and lung health. And, arguably, they allow you to connect with nature in a more significant way by slowing down and acknowledging the beauty surrounding you.

​Myth: If avalanche risk is rated at low or moderate you can ski or ride anywhere. False. Always keep your guard up when traveling through the backcountry whether you are snowshoeing, skiing, snowboarding, or hiking. Avalanches can occur year round. A reduced risk does not eliminate risk. Take avalanche awareness courses to educate yourself and your backcountry partners. Be aware of the overall avalanche danger by checking the CAIC website. And always play it smart.
​
Myth: If avalanche risk is rated at high or extreme stay out of the backcountry no matter what. False. There are many places that are safe to travel in the backcountry when conditions are ripe for avalanches. It is easy to avoid avalanche terrain. Stay on flat or very low angle terrain. Tour through wide open meadows. Avoid all suspicious slopes. Be aware of potential avalanche terrain above you. You may be on flat terrain but what do the slopes and ridges above you look like? Avoid terrain traps where an avalanche (big or small) might trap you. Do not take unnecessary risks, stay off all slopes that look suspicious. Typically when avalanche risk is at its highest the winter weather is at its stormiest. While it can be fun to ski or snowshoe during a winter storm take all precautions to stay safe and warm so you can and enjoy many winter days to come!

I walked up the slope in silence, overcome by how barren the landscape looked. Charred trees stood with bare branches, devoid of life. The morning sun blasted through, baking the ground. The ground lacked any cover, excepting for occasional patches of blooming Arnica, their happy yellow flowers loving the sun but seemingly out of place. ​

The Lodge closed for good the following year and sat vacant except by vandals before the Park finally removed it in 1976. Only the 1925 Patrol Cabin remained, and now that too is gone, one of the many casualties the Park endured from the East Troublesome Fire last October. 

Finally having reached the lake and standing in the very place where the Lodge once stood, I could see how the path of the fire split and pushed around the lake with one leg of the fire coming in from the northwest, engulfing the Patrol Cabin, and then skirting the western shoreline before racing east across the hillside that separated Fern Lake from Odessa Lake and heading up Mt Wuh, leaving the south and east shoreline mostly untouched. ​

I wandered down to the footbridge that crosses the outlet stream. Standing in the middle, I gazed into the clear mountain water of the little outlet pool surrounded by green vegetation and reflecting Notchtop Mtn above. The view across the lake was a mix of green and brown/black, but still an inspiring view. 

I decided to hike the additional 0.7 miles to Lake Odessa. Walking through another charred section of the trail, I observed the trail work that the Park described in their Historic Places report as, “some of the largest and most complex rock walls in the park and utilized Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) labor.” 

What a relief when I finally I crossed out of the fire zone and back into beautiful subalpine terrain, walking along a cascading mountain stream with lush green ground cover and green forested hillsides spectacularly framing Notchtop on the path to Odessa Lake. Snacking on the lake shore along with other hikers that had dropped into this paradise on the trail from Bear Lake, I took in the quiet, watching small wispy clouds float along. This was truly Rocky Mountain splendor.

The weekly spring snowstorms rolled in like waves crashing onto the beach and like a surfer watching to ride the crest, I watched the weather to catch the sunny days. It was getting into the latter part of May and while we had been getting a few warm days causing the snow to begin melting off the trails, just as quickly the springs snows were adding inches back on. 

On this day, the trail remained snow-packed in the shade of the trees, but the summer sun was having it's effect and some areas where the sun could reach were snow free. The trail gradually climbs 500ft for the first mile, then drops 250ft the next 1/2 mile, before rising 600ft for another 1/2 mile to Storm Pass. The last seven tenths of a mile climbs 750 before obtaining the summit of Estes Cone at 11,006ft.

​(Continues below)

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Go to the Twin Sister Trail Profile  in the RMNP Trail Guide

Suddenly, we break out of the trees where the trail cuts across a rocky talus slope, snow covered in these spring conditions.   A couple more switchbacks brought us to the saddle between the two “sisters.” ​

Here a stone hut and a radio communication tower stand which are still used today for emergency purposes.  We stay right of the stone hut then turn slightly left up a small gulley.  Scrambling up the rock outcroppings we work our way up to the western summit.   A fire lookout tower used to rest on the summit but now just a bit of history as it was taken out in 1977.
​

We headed down for lunch near the stone hut gazing over to the eastern summit. We decided to forgo the east summit and retrace our steps back in the snow. The snow had softened so much we could easily “boot-ski” to timberline! The snow had also melted considerably at the end of the trail leaving thick, sloppy mud behind.  Mud season 2021 had officially arrived!

Story and photos by Barb Boyer Buck

Back on skis after 20 years!

​I broke my back 21 years ago.  It was a fracture which resulted in spondylolisthesis and it brought on years of physical therapy, chiropractic treatments, loss of mobility, and pain.  It was the time when orthopedic surgery was very much feared, and outcomes were relatively unpredictable.  It was also the time when conservative treatment was recommended and surgery was avoided at all costs.   

I was told to give up skiing altogether, and especially snowboarding.  "One wrong fall and you could be paralyzed," was the doctor's advice.  Pretty scary stuff.  

But by 2018, I could barely walk, had to quit my job waiting tables (which supplemented my writing career) and I had pretty much given up most of the things that gave me pleasure, most notably outdoor recreation in the form of hiking and of course, skiing. 

I finally went to an orthopedic center to have an x-ray.  After seeing the results, the surgeon scheduled me for an emergency 3-level spinal fusion the very next week.  

I can see why people avoid this surgery, recovery was long and extremely painful.  To make a living, I crocheted and sold hats.  It was incredibly boring, to say the least. 

But today, I am almost back to normal!  So, I decided to try cross-country skiing again, something I had enjoyed for many years before my back injury. 

Dave Rusk, the publisher of Hike Rocky Magazine and an extremely patient man, agreed to accompany me and give me a refresher lesson.   Here's a video of that day, which took place on March 1 of this year. 

We rented equipment from the Estes Park Mountain Shop, and I was very pleasantly surprised at how far cross-country skis had come!  I definitely want to get the kind of skis I was using that day. 

In order to get the most out of my "lesson," I needed to start from scratch.  The patience I had developed during my nearly three years of recovery helped with this.  I approached xc skiing as if I had never done it before and thereby, I was able to take advantage of tips that Dave provided.   

First, I want to talk about the equipment.  These days, you can opt for skis that have scaling on the bottom of them,  where your boots clip in on the other side.  This helps you when going up inclines - you can literally walk on the snow with them.  Technically, they are called backcountry skis and you can "walk" up slopes and ski down them, which many people like to do at Hidden Valley.  I'm not ready for that yet, by the way.  Marlene Borneman explains about these type of skis in her piece, "Ski tracks in Rocky," published in the February, 2021, edition of HIKE ROCKY magazine. 

It's so much easier than waxing skis, or even putting on skins when you are doing a cross-country tour on sloped trails (most of the trails in Rocky Mountain National Park are sloped, by the way).  

The bindings on these new skis are so convenient. You can just toe-kick into them, and twist to take them off.  I rented the entire package, which included poles and boots, too, for about $20. 

​The place we chose for my first time back was Endovalley; the road to the picnic grounds is closed for the winter and can be used for skiing, snowshoeing, or when the snow melts off, walking.  It extends past the Fall River Road fork and ends at the picnic grounds.  The road is fairly level. 

I put on my skis just after the "road closed" gate and tried to recapture the feeling of skiing by taking a few tentative kick/glides.   On the newer skis, it felt more stable.  

If I stood straight, putting my full weight on the middle of the skis, they stopped sliding and I could "walk" on them.  In order to ski, I needed to learn forward slightly, bend one knee and kick backward, with the other leg extending out.  Alternating legs, eventually I started to feel a rhythm and began gliding. 

When I started to feel unsteady, I just straightened up again.   This was a big difference from the skis I used to have; my cross country skis from the late 80s were much more narrow with very smooth bottoms.  Stopping was always an adventure on those. 

The poles helped keep me steady, too - these need to fit into your hands while your elbows are bent at a 90-degree angle.  

Skiing on the road was a bit difficult because it was icy in spots and melting while we were on it.  As you learned in the above video, the only time I fell was when I tried to ski off the road to a picnic bench, missing a turn on the slight downhill slope. 

It was a wonderful adventure and even though I'll probably need to wait until next year to do it again, I'm looking forward to it! 

by Dave Rusk

The forecast was billed as clear and mild, but there was a high level of thin clouds screening the sun with a mild breeze. Walking out of the treeline, there was also a dark and somewhat ominous lenticular cloud hovering like a giant UFO off somewhere over Netherland, or maybe Ward.

The tundra above treeline had been swept clear of any deep snow with the only snow accumulations occurring on the leeward side of willow shrubs. The Diamond of Longs came into view, obscured partially by Mt Lady Washington. We also could see our immediate destination, Granite Pass, to the north. 

We had anticipated an increase in wind once on the west side of Granite Pass, but it continued to stay mostly calm with occasional gusts, pretty pleasant for this first day of February. 

Threading through the Boulderfield now, we turned our gaze to the north of Longs Peak along the north ridge to our destination, Storm Peak. Appearing as mostly a knob on the ridge next to the dominating Longs Peak, the summit of Storm is at a very respectful 13,326'. 

Having traveled the 6 miles to get to the base of Storm Peak, the unknown question we had was what kind of snow would we find. It needed to be hard enough to make solid steps in. We had brought crampons if the conditions warranted them.

While there was some soft stuff layered on the surface, there was also some more solid footing underneath, so we continued to work our way up.

The sun made more of an appearance moving into the afternoon and when the wind wasn't blowing, it felt a little balmy. But when those wind gust did come up, picking up and blowing small snow particles into our face, we had to turn away and wait for the gust to blow off.

About three quarters of the way up, the slope angle became too steep for my comfort zone and I perched myself on a rock outcrop, pulled out a thermos, and took a coffee break while Kip completed the ascent to the ridge giving him a commanding view into the Glacier Gorge, with frozen Black Lake below and endless peaks to the west and north.

With shadows starting to grow long in the afternoon light, we descend through the Boulderfield.

Story and photos by Barb Boyer Buck
 
A hike to Emerald Lake, that was the intention.  It had lightly snowed overnight and the sky was a cloudless, cobalt blue.  Most importantly, there wasn’t any wind. If you don’t know about the wind in the eastern foothills of Colorado – most notably in the valleys– well, It’s brutal.  When air is forced over the Continental Divide and combines with Chinook upslope winds, the result is a cacophony of directionless and fierce wind. It’s just as crazy-making as the sound of a symphony warming up. 

When I was the renewable energy manager for the Town of Estes Park, my team thought perhaps wind turbines would be able to harness this crazy wind, but no.  The wind comes from too many directions, is too fast (70-90 mph is not uncommon) and is never consistent.  It’s either windy or it’s not, at least from October through April. 

​I was excited to take a hike in the fresh snow with no wind.  But it was a late start – we probably didn’t reach the Emerald Lake Trailhead until close to 1 p.m.   I brought my snowshoes just in case, but micro-spikes and poles worked just fine.

From its trailhead, Emerald Lake is 1.8 miles, so we figured we’d get there around 3 and have plenty of time to get back down before dark.  It was nearly a month after Winter Solstice and the days were getting a bit longer. 

​But we were stopped quite literally in our tracks with almost every step. 

​Snow doesn’t usually stay on the tress very long in RMNP (again, the wind) but that day, it covered every branch like fluffy icing, it sparkled in the full sun. 

The views along the way were spectacular and even with my cell phone, I was able to capture amazingly clear photos with great detail. 

​This was a function of the afternoon lighting as well, which became increasingly rich as the day wore on.  

​The Emerald Lake Trailhead is by far the most popular one in Rocky Mountain National Park, any time of the year.  This day, a Tuesday in mid-January, was no exception.  There were a lot less people than in the summer months, but the route was still fairly crowded. ​

Here’s the etiquette for passing on the trail: those traveling up have the right-of-way.  This is especially important when the trail is snow packed and/or icy.  Further measures to take during these COVID times is to step aside, pull up your mask (if it’s down), and turn your back to the trail.  Six feet of distance is just not possible on these popular trails. 

​But I found myself stopping many more times than I technically needed to because of the stunning sights, especially of the Keyboard of the Winds formation on the “back” side of Longs Peak.  The wind I was talking about earlier can make some unearthly sounds as it passes through this jagged ridge.
The trail to Emerald Lake is packed full of amazing views and destinations – if you count Bear Lake (which is just a few steps from the trailhead) you see four lakes, amazing views of Longs Peak, many other stunning peaks, and beautiful geologic formations. 

The first destination along the trail is Nymph Lake.  In the winter, when the lakes are frozen over “winter trails” are established at each lake which cross over the frozen waters.  Be very careful when you do this – sometimes the ice is thin in places you cannot see.  Make sure that every lake is completely frozen on all edges before you try to walk across it.
​
Views of Hallet Peak, first seen over Bear Lake, were now joined with the spires of Flattop Mountain. 

A bit further up, and you reach Dream Lake with more  stunning views of  these features.   

​Other things we noticed at Dream Lake were the limber pines (colloquially, twisted pines).  These trees are actually shaped by the wind as they grow, and they are some of the oldest living organisms on earth. 

​Some limber pines in RMNP date back over 1,000 years, according to a report by several federal forestry agencies, “Limber Pine Conservation in Rocky Mountain National Park,” published in 2013.  

​At this point on our hike, the sun was setting – as it sank over the peaks shading Dream Lake, a final alpenglow lit the scene in a spectacular way. ​

Emerald Lake was not to be, not that day.  But it’s days like that which make me glad to be alive. 

​For me, rushing past the gifts of Nature, especially when they were laid out so beautifully for us to experience, is unforgivable.  Emerald Lake isn’t going anywhere, and neither am I.  ​

By Dave Rusk

It was 20 days past the Winter Solstice last week when we ventured up into the Glacier Gorge area. Even though it was still 60 days until the Spring Equinox, the snowpack at the trailhead was very thin and it seemed like it wouldn't take much warmth to melt it away. But on this day, the trail was still snow covered, the skies were blue, and there was hardly a wiff of wind. The morning temperature was still cold.

We quickly moved up the trail to where the mostly snowed over Icy Brook dropping out of the Loch Vale joins with Glacier Creek.  The snow was deeper here where it is sun and wind protected. 

We climbed up out of the drainage heading toward Mills Lake. The lake was frozen solid and there was still a couple of inches of snow on the lake that had fallen a few days before. We trudged across the middle of the lake to the far end.

Once at the south end of Mills Lake, we followed the short drainage that connects Mills Lake to the small Jewell Lake and crossed it. At the south end of that lake, there was an area where Glacier Creek flows into Jewel Lake where the snow did not stick, like maybe the warmth of the water melted the snow, but left these odd puff balls of large flakes. It was kind of an odd phenomenon that was hard to explain.

After Jewel Lake, we returned to the trail and worked through the blowdown area from a Nov 2011 wind event and started to move into the upper part of Glacier Basin with Arrowhead appearing to the west and then finally McHenry's Peak. 

Once at Black Lake, also with a thin layer of of snow on it, we moved up the drainage that leads to the upper hanging valley. Part way up, now at about noon, with the sun at it's zenith for the day, we stopped for a bite to eat and take in the amazing view. The day had been warm and we were casual on our break. In the summer, there are lots of seeps, water that flows out of the cracks on down the rock face. These had turned into ice flows as the winter temperatures settled in.

Up to this point, the trail to Black Lake was pretty well packed from snowshoers the previous day and shoe spikes was all that was needed for travel. But for moving into the upper basin, we decided to go with snowshoes.

We climbed up into the Upper Basin that sits at the western base of Longs Peak. There was only one set of tracks and they were several days old, someone without snowshoes. Despite being mid day, the sun sat low on the horizon and I needed to use my gloved hand to shade the camera lens.

From the upper basin, McHenrys Peak and Arrowhead rise dramatically to the west and turning behind us, we could see all the way across to the Mummy Range in the north. Jet contrails were the only things breaking up the blue sky.

We navigated our way through the boulder fields heading for Green Lake. There was snow coverage over the krumholtz shrubs, but grass, willows and rock cairns were poking through the thin layer of snow.

The sun had now dropped behind Chiefs Head Mtn and the temperature started to drop and the downslope wind picked up. But the Key Board of the Winds rock formation continued to bask in the afternoon light.

Finally at Green Lake at the base of Pagoda Mtn, we stopped for some more food and water before heading back down. We had caught a beautiful day in the Park.

Trails Correspondent Marlene Borneman reports in on her recent trip to the West Side Of Rocky Mountain National Park:

West Side RMNP

This past week my husband and I got to spend time on the west side of RMNP.  Please do not misunderstand when I say we have held the west side of Rocky special in our hearts for many years.  We enjoy every square inch of Rocky from corner to corner.  However, as soon as Trail Ridge Road opens in the spring until it closes in the fall, we hike, climb and backpack as much as possible on the west side of the divide.  There is something about fewer trails, remote lakes/peaks and the sheer ruggedness that is a strong pull. The west side of the divide receives more precipitation resulting in lush, captivating forest, powerful waterfalls, vast meadows and a variety of plant life.

Summer 2020 was no exception.  We did several cross-country hikes and backpacking trips to remote areas.  I’m pleased we took the time and effort to make these trips happen and fully took in all that surrounded us.  Who knew what was to happen in the coming weeks that would dramatically take that away?   

I read reports and have seen a few photos of the trailheads from the fire damage, but nothing prepares you for hiking/snowshoeing the trails that are affected by the Troublesome Creek fire! The blacken sticks on the hillsides, charred lichen on rocks, the private cabin in Summerland Park along the North Inlet Trail destroyed.  I worry about the streams; will they be healthy?  I feel much discomfort,  but strangely also comfort in nature’s healing.

I am thankful for what the fire did not take away.  Much of the Never Summer Range is intact, Timber Lake Trail, Colorado River Trail, Holzwarth Ranch  intact.  I saw bright spots among the destruction; snow on the ground and frozen ice crystals that will nourish plant life, a green ponderosa pine sapling, , the sunset over Mount Craig and Grand Avenue with shops and restaurants open for business.

Thank you Snowy Peaks Winery for sponsoring Notes From the Trail

Visit : www.snowypeakswinery.com