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Notes from the Trail

Two RMNP Easy Hikes to Get You Outside!

5/6/2024

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by Jason Miller

This month we wanted to go on two different hikes that are EASY. After a long winter of sitting on the couch watching TV, it is best to ease back into the hiking season. We chose two hikes that are located outside the gates of Rocky Mountain National Park. You will still need to acquire a RMNP Entry Reservation (entry reservations begin May 24, 2024). The Lumpy Ridge Loop is only 1.6 miles but has some vertical gain which will get your blood pumping. Lily Lake Trail is just under one mile but is also a wonderful spot to begin your summer hiking season.

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Twin Owls via Lumpy Ridge Loop
Located at the Gem Lake and Twin Owls parking lot you will find restrooms and the trailhead to this first hike. Scattered around the parking lot there are enormous boulders and rock features. This can provide your first photo opportunity if so desired. To begin the hike, you need to look for the sign that points to “Twin Owls Black Canyon Trail .6 miles."  I suggest taking a picture of the trail map at the beginning of the hike and at the end. This gives you a time stamp and you can calculate your time on the trail.
The trail starts off as a gentle climb on a pebble walkway. A few minutes into the walk we come to a sign. This sign informs us that we were crossing onto private property and that no pets are allowed on the trail. At this point you are on the MacGregor Ranch. This 3,600-acre ranch is nestled up against Rocky Mountain National Park. There are 41 structures including  the ranch house, chicken house, milk shed, and “loafing shed."  Be sure to stay on the trail and do not explore private buildings.
Continuing, you will travel past the base of Twin Owls. Rock climber’s routes branch out in different spots along this section of The Black Canyon Trail. There are many signs along the way, but NONE have our trail name on them. Stay on the trail that points toward Gem Lake. We hugged the mountain side with fascinating views of the Rocky Mountains. When we came to a fork in the trail and a sign saying that Gem Lake is 1.2 miles away, we went right to continue our clockwise loop. At this juncture we were only .5 miles from the parking lot.
Once we turned onto the last portion of the trail, it is a downhill grade all the way. Gentle switchbacks make it an easy walk down. We had a group of 6 people including two nine-year-old boys and completed the entire adventure in just over an hour.

Total Distance - 1.6 miles
Elevation Gain - 416 feet
Average Time - 54 minutes
Trail Rating - Easy to Moderate

Lily Lake Trail
Our second hike is one that I have always called a walk. Being a .8-mile flat loop with only 40 feet of elevation gain around a beautiful lake, most would not consider this as a worthy hike. Because of its expansive views of Longs Peek and Mount Meeker with this quaint lake in the front, we are placing it on our short list of must do hikes! Lily Lake Trailhead is located outside Estes Park on Highway 7 across the street from Twin Sisters Mountain.
It was a clear day to start off and by the time we got to the trailhead the wind was blowing and temperature dropped 15 degrees. Dressing in layers ensured that we would be warm. We chose to walk around the lake counterclockwise which gave us the option of Lily Ridge Trail. If you are looking for a little harder hike, you can try this one. The entrance is only 75-100 yards up on the main trail. Look where you cross the river and there is a section of fencing. The trail is in front of the fence. This adds on .5 miles to the total route and changes the difficulty from easy to moderate. Choosing this route gives you views of Lily Lake from halfway up the side of Lily Mountain.

Lily Lake Trail is a wide trail that is easily traveled no matter your ability. Strollers and wheelchair users are welcome. Today the trail is snow packed, so we needed to walk slowly and watch our footing. Walking along the north side of the lake gives you spectacular views of Longs Peak and Mount Meeker. There are a few benches sprinkled along the way that provide you with great resting opportunities and picture taking.
At the far end of the lake, the landscape opens and mountains in the distance come into view. Moose sightings are rare, but they do occur in this area. Looking back across the lake toward the parking lot we could see Twin Sisters. Another massive mountain within the RMNP. Our trail continued alongside the water which gave us an opportunity to see numerous ducks. Wildlife is never far away from these great watering holes. On this side of the lake there are picnic tables so you can come, sit, and have dinner watching the sunset. Beautiful.

We spent a total of 25 minutes on this easy hike. It's good to get outside, no matter the time or distance traveled. Be sure to eat a good breakfast, stretch, and plan well before hiking Rock Mountain National Park. Sunglasses, sunscreen, layers, and lunch are a must. Never forget to bring WATER! There are many options out there when it comes to hikes in the RMNP, but none this close to Estes Park with these kinds of views.

​Get Outside and use 
#HikeRocky when posting pictures on social media!
All photos above by Jason Miller.

Postscript: Mountain weather is tricky to predict at best. Jason went on his Lily Lake hike early May and his photos show a fair amount of snow. Dave Rusk hiked the same trail earlier on April 20th with practically dry conditions and minimal snow around Lily Lake. Proof positive it's important to keep up to date on weather and trail conditions in RMNP!
Photos by Dave Rusk

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A Hike up Estes Cone in Rocky Mountain National Park

5/20/2021

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Go to the Estes Cone Trail Profile page of the RMNP Trail Guide

The weekly spring snowstorms rolled in like waves crashing onto the beach and like a surfer watching to ride the crest, I watched the weather to catch the sunny days. It was getting into the latter part of May and while we had been getting a few warm days causing the snow to begin melting off the trails, just as quickly the springs snows were adding inches back on. 

On this day, the trail remained snow-packed in the shade of the trees, but the summer sun was having it's effect and some areas where the sun could reach were snow free. The trail gradually climbs 500ft for the first mile, then drops 250ft the next 1/2 mile, before rising 600ft for another 1/2 mile to Storm Pass. The last seven tenths of a mile climbs 750 before obtaining the summit of Estes Cone at 11,006ft.

​(Continues below)

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The hike to the Estes Cone begins at the Longs Peak trailhead with a starting elevation of 9,400ft. The first 2/3 of the hike are pleasant, passing by the remains of an old mine and through Moore Park. The trail begins to climb up Storm Pass with the last 1/2 mile best described as steep and rocky with breathtaking views at the top of Estes Cone. ​
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Begin hiking on the Longs Peak trail, but watch for a trail junction at just under a half mile and take the trail to the right.
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Trail sign
The trail continues through high elevation lodgepole pine forest, at first going up hill, then descending down and crossing Inn Brook. At this point, you will have traveled about 1.4 miles and reach the remains of the Eugenia Mine, including remnants of a miner's cabin. According to High Country Names (Arps/Kingery, 1977), this was the home of Carl Norwall in the early 1900's. He lived there with his wife and two young daughters. The home included a piano and was frequently visited by Longs Peak guides from nearby inns. 

The 1905 mine was the work of Norwall and Edward Cudahy. Reportedly, they managed to dig a mine of 1000 ft, but nothing ever came of it and the mine was abandoned.

The mine was sealed in the 1960's, but there are still some signs of the mine in the area. 
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Continue past the mine and through Moore Park before climbing the south shoulder of Estes Cone to Storm Pass. The Storm Pass trail also crosses here which you can follow to the Bear Lake Rd of Lily Lake. You are now at an elevation of about 10,250ft with the last 750 feet to get to the summit, now only 0.7miles away. Carefully follow the steep trail marked by rock cairns up through Limber pines. A brief rock scramble at the end will bring you to the top with views all around.
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Summit of Estes Cone
Summit of Estes Cone with Longs Peak in the distance
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Limber Pine
Limber Pine near the summit of Estes Cone


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A Snowy Hike on Twin Sisters Mountain in Rocky Mountain National Park

5/1/2021

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"Spring is when you feel like whistling even with a shoe full of slush."

-  Doug Larson

Twin Sisters Mountain:  
  East Summit 11,428 feet
  West Summit 11,413 feet
  7.5 miles round trip
  2,253 feet elevation gain
Go to the Twin Sister Trail Profile  in the RMNP Trail Guide

by Trail Correspondent, Marlene Borneman
May 1 is tied to folklore as well as historical significance.  In some countries it is a celebration of laborers similar to our Labor Day in September. I remember May baskets and dancing around the maypole celebrating the return of spring.

​My husband and I started the month of May by hiking to the summit of Twin Sisters Mountain. This mountain has two distinct summits giving its name.
  The established trail leads to the west summit, the lower by fifteen feet.
The day was a warm fifty-six degrees with clear skies and only a few cars in the parking lot at 6:30 a.m.  April and May are mud season months as snow is rapidly melting with warmer temperatures; spring conditions. We walk a short distance on the snowy/muddy road leading to the trailhead kiosk.  We found the trail snow-packed with a soft crust so no need for snowshoes or micro-spikes, however trekking poles were helpful.  
We started through lodgepole pine forest where the trail leaves the Park boundary and enters Roosevelt National Forest, then shortly re-enters the Park boundary again. We quickly put several switchbacks behind us. Within a mile or so we come to a spectacular viewpoint showing Longs Peak and the surrounding mountains.  Along a rock wall I also notice several alumroot plants sprouting new bright green leaves. Another sign spring has arrived.
Alumroot sprouting new leaves
Alumroot sprouting new leaves
Transition snow to mud
Transition snow to mud
 Viewpoint along the trail
Viewpoint along the trail
At the end of a long switchback we stopped to take in a substantial landslide.  This landslide is the result of a major flood that occurred in 2013.  It washed out portions of the trail.  The Park service has established a social trail across the slide to the south side.    ​
Landslide
Landslide
Restoration sign at landslide
Restoration sign at landslide
Social trail crossing landslide area
Social trail crossing landslide area
Once across, the route becomes steep and indistinct in places.  It is here we encountered some ice, cautiously take baby steps to avoid slipping.   After a couple of short switchbacks we re-join the original trail.
Icy trail
Icy trail
Snowy start
Snowy start
Near treeline I see a familiar old snag “waving” us to a favorite resting spot;  a smooth, large dead log.  After enjoying a snack and water we return to the trail hiking through a subalpine fir forest.  Subalpine refers to a transition zone between thick forest growth shifting to stunted small trees then to treeless alpine tundra.  Fir trees are commonly seen at this altitude.  They are sometimes called “friendly” firs as their needles are soft to the touch.
The “waving” snag
The “waving” snag
My resting log
My resting log
Suddenly, we break out of the trees where the trail cuts across a rocky talus slope, snow covered in these spring conditions.   A couple more switchbacks brought us to the saddle between the two “sisters.” ​
Above treeline
Above treeline
Here a stone hut and a radio communication tower stand which are still used today for emergency purposes.  We stay right of the stone hut then turn slightly left up a small gulley.  Scrambling up the rock outcroppings we work our way up to the western summit.   A fire lookout tower used to rest on the summit but now just a bit of history as it was taken out in 1977.
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Stone Hut & Radio tower
Stone Hut & Radio tower
Summit ridge
Summit ridge
A commanding 360 view lies before us: Longs Peak, Mummy Range, Continental Divide, Estes Valley, the plains to the east, to the south Mount Evans and Pikes Peak.  The summit was all ours for a brief time, but soon we made room for other hikers to enjoy this spot of earth.
East summit with spectacular view of Longs Peak
East summit with spectacular view of Longs Peak
We headed down for lunch near the stone hut gazing over to the eastern summit. We decided to forgo the east summit and retrace our steps back in the snow. The snow had softened so much we could easily “boot-ski” to timberline! The snow had also melted considerably at the end of the trail leaving thick, sloppy mud behind.  Mud season 2021 had officially arrived!
Mud season
Mud season

RMDH Trail Correspondent Marlene Borneman has climbed Colorado’s 54 14ers, the 126 USGS named peaks in Rocky Mountain National Park and 44 State High Points.  She has been a member of the Colorado Mountain Club since 1979 and is a member of the Colorado Native Plant Society.

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Skiing to Endovalley in Rocky Mountain National Park

4/2/2021

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Dave Rusk accompanied me to Endovalley on my first ski tour in more than 20 years.
Story and photos by Barb Boyer Buck

Back on skis after 20 years!

​
I broke my back 21 years ago.  It was a fracture which resulted in spondylolisthesis and it brought on years of physical therapy, chiropractic treatments, loss of mobility, and pain.  It was the time when orthopedic surgery was very much feared, and outcomes were relatively unpredictable.  It was also the time when conservative treatment was recommended and surgery was avoided at all costs.   

I was told to give up skiing altogether, and especially snowboarding.  "One wrong fall and you could be paralyzed," was the doctor's advice.  Pretty scary stuff.  

But by 2018, I could barely walk, had to quit my job waiting tables (which supplemented my writing career) and I had pretty much given up most of the things that gave me pleasure, most notably outdoor recreation in the form of hiking and of course, skiing. 

I finally went to an orthopedic center to have an x-ray.  After seeing the results, the surgeon scheduled me for an emergency 3-level spinal fusion the very next week.  

I can see why people avoid this surgery, recovery was long and extremely painful.  To make a living, I crocheted and sold hats.  It was incredibly boring, to say the least. 

But today, I am almost back to normal!  So, I decided to try cross-country skiing again, something I had enjoyed for many years before my back injury. 

Dave Rusk, the publisher of Hike Rocky Magazine and an extremely patient man, agreed to accompany me and give me a refresher lesson.   Here's a video of that day, which took place on March 1 of this year. 
We rented equipment from the Estes Park Mountain Shop, and I was very pleasantly surprised at how far cross-country skis had come!  I definitely want to get the kind of skis I was using that day. 

In order to get the most out of my "lesson," I needed to start from scratch.  The patience I had developed during my nearly three years of recovery helped with this.  I approached xc skiing as if I had never done it before and thereby, I was able to take advantage of tips that Dave provided.   

First, I want to talk about the equipment.  These days, you can opt for skis that have scaling on the bottom of them,  where your boots clip in on the other side.  This helps you when going up inclines - you can literally walk on the snow with them.  Technically, they are called backcountry skis and you can "walk" up slopes and ski down them, which many people like to do at Hidden Valley.  I'm not ready for that yet, by the way.  Marlene Borneman explains about these type of skis in her piece, "Ski tracks in Rocky," published in the February, 2021, edition of HIKE ROCKY magazine. 
It's so much easier than waxing skis, or even putting on skins when you are doing a cross-country tour on sloped trails (most of the trails in Rocky Mountain National Park are sloped, by the way).  

The bindings on these new skis are so convenient. You can just toe-kick into them, and twist to take them off.  I rented the entire package, which included poles and boots, too, for about $20. 

​The place we chose for my first time back was Endovalley; the road to the picnic grounds is closed for the winter and can be used for skiing, snowshoeing, or when the snow melts off, walking.  It extends past the Fall River Road fork and ends at the picnic grounds.  The road is fairly level. 
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March 2, 2021, in Endovalley - a beautiful, still and warm day.
I put on my skis just after the "road closed" gate and tried to recapture the feeling of skiing by taking a few tentative kick/glides.   On the newer skis, it felt more stable.  

If I stood straight, putting my full weight on the middle of the skis, they stopped sliding and I could "walk" on them.  In order to ski, I needed to learn forward slightly, bend one knee and kick backward, with the other leg extending out.  Alternating legs, eventually I started to feel a rhythm and began gliding. 

When I started to feel unsteady, I just straightened up again.   This was a big difference from the skis I used to have; my cross country skis from the late 80s were much more narrow with very smooth bottoms.  Stopping was always an adventure on those. 

The poles helped keep me steady, too - these need to fit into your hands while your elbows are bent at a 90-degree angle.  

Skiing on the road was a bit difficult because it was icy in spots and melting while we were on it.  As you learned in the above video, the only time I fell was when I tried to ski off the road to a picnic bench, missing a turn on the slight downhill slope. 

It was a wonderful adventure and even though I'll probably need to wait until next year to do it again, I'm looking forward to it! 


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    “Hiking - 

    I don’t like either​ the word or the thing. People ought to saunter in the mountains - not hike! Do you know the origin of the word ‘saunter?’ It’s a beautiful word. Away back in the Middle Ages people used to go on pilgrimages to the Holy Land, and when people in the villages through which they passed asked where they were going, they would reply, A la sainte terre,’ ‘To the Holy Land.’ And so they became known as sainte-terre-ers or saunterers. Now these mountains are our Holy Land, and we ought to saunter through them reverently, not ‘hike’ through them.” ~ John Muir

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