Along the Fern Lake Trail in wintery RMNP

Snowshoers enjoying the hike up to Fern Lake, RMNP. Photo: Marlene Borneman

by Marlene Borneman, author of ​Rocky Mountain Wildflowers 2Ed., The Best Front Range Wildflower Hikes, and Rocky Mountain Alpine Flowers.

Hike Rating:  Moderate
Distance:  7.6 miles from Trailhead plus 1.4 miles on road from Shuttle/winter parking. Total 9 miles round trip in winter
Elevation gain:  1,390 feet

Rocky Mountain National Park offers a variety of winter hikes. Wearing winter spikes, snowshoes or skis are the most suitable forms of recreation. A popular destination in this frosty season is Fern Lake when the trail transforms to a carpet of shimmering snow. The trek to Fern Lake begins at the Summer Shuttle Stop 0.7 mile from the Fern Lake Trailhead as the road to the trailhead is closed from end of October through May.

Be prepared for current conditions and weather by checking ahead at the Wilderness Office. Both trail conditions and weather can change rapidly. Rocky is often referred to the Land of Extremes for good reasons!

Early in the season you may be wearing spikes for an icy start, but as you gain elevation you may need to switch to snowshoes. It is good practice to carry snowshoes strapped to your pack to avoid postholing. Postholing is a term used when with each step you are sinking deep into the snow past your knees which makes walking very fatiguing. Best to avoid. If there have been recent heavy snowfalls, you can start from the parking lot in snowshoes.

Top Left: The icy Pool of the Big Thompson River. Top Right: Keep your eyes open for moose! Bottom Left: Spider on the snow. Bottom Right: Moose print. All photos by Marlene Borneman. 

Once at the trailhead it is an easy 1.75 miles hike up to The Pool, a deep collection of swirling water in the Big Thompson River. Hiking in the snow provides opportunities to investigate animal tracks, deer, moose, even field mice. Often these animals are seen along the snow-covered banks of the beautiful Big Thompson River. Spiders of all varieties may be seen on the snow in search of tiny insects.

The "Jaws" icefall with an ice climber. Photo: Marlene Borneman

About a mile and half from the trailhead look to your right (north) “The Jaws” maybe visible.  “The Jaws” is a large ice formation formed from water dripping down steep rock slabs creating a dramatic icefall. Technical ice climbers like to take on this challenge.

Old Forest Inn trail sign and burn scar from the 2020 East Troublesome Fire. Photos: Marlene Borneman

The next feature you reach is a backcountry campsite named The Old Forest Inn. The Forest Inn was one of the early rustic lodges located in Rocky Mountain National Park, built around 1913. The Forest Inn provided peaceful rest for hikers. In 1959, the remains of the Forest Inn were removed by the Park Service.

​The trail now becomes steeper with several switchbacks up to Fern Falls. Here the snow can become very deep. You will see evidence of the 2020 East Troublesome Fire. Stands of black, scarred trees in the glistening snow create a desolate landscape in winter.

Fern Falls encased in winter. Photo: Marlene Borneman

However, Fern Falls creates an intoxicating sparkling spectacle in the cold air. Fern Falls shows many faces in winter months, either completely covered in snow with only sounds of rushing water underneath, frozen water encased by snow sculptures, or cascades roaring down adorned by large sharp icicles or a mosaic combination.

Leaving the falls, continue up a few more switchbacks. Soon you will see a hitch rack for summer horseback riders and just up a short hill Fern Lake comes into view. The shores of Fern Lake have a history of providing a restful spot for fishermen, hikers, and Park Rangers. Here stood Fern Lake Lodge, built in 1910 by Dr. William J. Workman from Kansas. His main interest was fishing and the lodge provided lodging and meals with some fishy stories thrown in. Later there were many others who managed the lodge with Rocky Mountain National Park taking over the property in 1958. Fern Lake Lodge was permanently closed in 1959. Due to the hazards of the deteriorating structure, the Park Service burned the lodge in 1976.

Remains of the Fern Lake Ranger Cabin. Photo: Marlene Borneman

​Look slightly to the north and you will see the remains of the Fern Lake Patrol Cabin that was destroyed in the 2020 East Troublesome fire. This beautifully built sturdy cabin provided Park Rangers shelter when patrolling on official duty. In 1989 this Patrol Cabin was placed on the National Register of Historic Places. Maybe the cabin will be rebuilt one day.

Fern Lake. Your reward for making an excellent winter hike! Photo: Marlene Borneman

Fern Lake lies at 9,540 feet offering a striking vista more days than not with sunny blue skies overhead. Views of 12,129-foot Notchtop Mountain, 11,586-foot Little Matterhorn and 12,331-foot Knobtop Mountain make a picture-perfect backdrop to the shimmering frozen lake.