Photos and story by Marlene M. Borneman “Autumn is a second spring when every leaf is a flower”---Albert Camus Every year I make the trek over the Continental Divide, 42 miles of which snakes through Rocky Mountain National park. There are several trails used to accomplish this mission but on Sunday of Labor Day weekend I chose to hike with three friends from Bear Lake to the Green Mountain Trailhead via the Tonahutu Trail, 15 miles one way. My husband was designated to pick us up at the destination trailhead.  Autumn along the Tonanutu Trail On a brisk, clear morning wearing headlamps, we started up Flattop Mountain Trail that connects with the Tonahutu. I started scouting for Blue Grouse, also called Dusky Grouse. These chicken-like birds live in subalpine areas this time of year. We were blessed with seeing several grouse foraging for seeds. The trail switchbacks in the subalpine forest gaining altitude above timberline to the alpine ecosystem. The trail becomes more rocky and steeper.  Dusky, or blue grouse.  Ptarmigan Pass The summit of Flattop, 12,324 feet, is always perfect for a second breakfast. Sweeping views of the Never Summer Range to the west were striking, but also melancholic as no winter snow was left, due to drought conditions.
Soon, we approached the intersection of the Tonahutu Trail and North Inlet Trail. We headed down the Tonahutu to the north and west over Ptarmigan Pass. Sightings of marmots, ptarmigans, and watching for elk and bighorn sheep absorbed us.  Colorful aspens  Broom Huckleberry shrubs in autumn color on the Tonahutu trail to Grand Lake Sweeping views appeared on a long switchback before dropping down. This section is wet and mossy as the beginnings of Tonahutu Creek; earlier in the season it is packed with wildflowers. I stopped to check on the vegetation and found a few star gentians still in bloom along with the tall and robust dense-flowered dock. Ah, the noise of Granite Falls can be heard before you see it. The water spilling over giant boulders with an invigorating spray makes for a picturesque spot for a break.  On a previous trip through Big Meadows, we saw this moose There are many stream crossings on this portion of the trail and we stopped to soak our feet. I also wanted to photograph the seed heads of flowers which I find as attractive as the flowers in bloom. About two miles from our destination we came to Big Meadows from which the Tonahutu Creek snakes down all the way to Grand Lake and beyond. Tonahutu is an Arapaho word meaning “Big Meadow." There were no moose sightings that day, but they are often spotted here.  Fireweed in seed on the Tonanutu Trail The junction for Green Mountain Trail head came into view, we were only 1.9 miles to the awaiting car. But wait, what? Right then we got a text that the Park will be closing Trail Ridge Road at 3:00p.m due to heavy smoke from the Cameron Fire to the north. This was to be our route on the drive back to Estes Park! I checked the time - 2:45p.m. - and we hiked out a little unsettled thinking about the four-hour ride back, which usually takes 45-minutes when Trail Ridge Road is open (it has since reopened). We happily agreed to relish our day, including the long ride home. BE PREPARED you never know what will happen in the mountains. OPTIONS If you still feel ambitious after hiking over from Bear Lake instead of heading to the Green Mountain Trail Head, you can continue south along Big Meadows on the well maintained Tonahutu trail to Grand Lake. Here the Tonahutu Creek snakes down all the way to Grand Lake and beyond. This adds another 4.5 miles. This section is very showy in autumn with golden grasses, shrubs in red colors, lodgepole pine forests, gold aspens, and the chance of wildlife sightings. Encounter a little history by passing the Harbison Ditch as it no doubt helped irrigate the Harbison sisters homestead in 1895. Another option I have taken for a mellow day hike, not involving crossing the Continental Divide, is to hike this section as a 5.8-mile one-way hike with a car shuttle starting at Green Mountain Trail Head ending at either the Kaweeneche Visitor Center or Grand Lake. Or approximately 12 miles round trip. The entire way hiking is in rhythm with Tonahutu creek. The possibilities in Rocky are endless. NOTE: Last week I hiked Tonaahutu Creek./Big Meadows trail to Grand lake from Green Mountain Trailhead and back. Earlier in the week there was an “wind event” resulting in MANY down trees across the trail. The downfall increases the difficulty of hiking this section. Be sure to appreciate trail crews as they are working on clearing these trails. 
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"The wild requires that we learn the terrain, nod to all the plants and animals and birds, ford the streams and cross the ridges, and tell a good story when we get back home." ~ Gary Snyder
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“Hiking -I don’t like either the word or the thing. People ought to saunter in the mountains - not hike! Do you know the origin of the word ‘saunter?’ It’s a beautiful word. Away back in the Middle Ages people used to go on pilgrimages to the Holy Land, and when people in the villages through which they passed asked where they were going, they would reply, A la sainte terre,’ ‘To the Holy Land.’ And so they became known as sainte-terre-ers or saunterers. Now these mountains are our Holy Land, and we ought to saunter through them reverently, not ‘hike’ through them.” ~ John Muir |
