Signs of beaver activity from left to right: Recently chewed willow stems. A beave lodge made of sticks and mud. An active beaver dam. A food cache of aspen stems in the water. NPS Photo. Food cache photo courtesy of J. Sueltenfuss

by Scott Rashid,
Director of Colorado Avian Research and Rehabilitation Institute (CARRI)

There are four species of small owls that reside in and around Rocky Mountain National Park (RMNP). The Boreal Owl, Northern Saw-whet Owl, Flammulated Owl and the Northern Pygmy-Owl. All these owls are secondary cavity nesting species, which means that they need to nest in a cavity but cannot create one themselves. Therefore, they need to use an abandoned woodpecker cavity or a nest box that has been provided for them.

Apart from the Flammulated Owl, these owls can be found in the area year-round. The Boreal Owl is often found in the Boreal Forest above 9000 feet, the Northern Saw-whet can be found in a multitude of habitats form just below tree line to the foothills. The Northern Pygmy-Owl has a bit more preferred habitat, as they prefer a mixed forest type that consists of aspen, fir, spruce, juniper downed logs, small openings within the forests and a water source.
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The diminutive Flammulated Owls winter in Mexico and nest up here where they feed primarily on insects, including moths, beetles, and crickets. The Boreal Owl feeds upon voles, mice, small birds and large insects. The Northern Saw-whet prefers deer mice but will also take a few voles and occasionally a bird or two. The Northern Pygmy-Owls have a more varied diet and consume voles, chipmunks, small to medium-sized birds, and nestlings.

The Northern Flicker, the largest woodpecker in the area and is the bird that constructs the cavity that these owls prefer. Northern Flickers create a cavity that has a roughly three-inch entrance hole and is about a foot deep. That appears to be sufficient for each species to raise their families.

Northern Pygmy-Owls and Northern Saw-whet Owls prefer a nest cavity that is close to water. In many cases, these birds will choose a nest that is within a few yards of a water source, which could be a creek, stream or pond. This is because both species often capture creatures as large if not larger than themselves, and often get bloody. Having a water source near their nests affords them the luxury of bathing when dirty. Clean feathers help keep the owls warm and dry.
 
Northern Saw-whet Owls have a territory that is about 400 yards, where the Northern Pygmy-Owl has a territory that is about ¾ of a square mile. The Boreal Owl seems only to defend the nest tree and not a territory. The Flammulated Owl has a rather tiny territory as they feed upon insects that are often much more numerous and easier to capture than small birds and mammals.

Male Northern Saw-whet Owls begin soliciting a female in January, and begin nesting in March. Boreal Owls often begin calling for a female in February and being nesting in March or April. The Northern Pygmy-Owl begins courtship in mid-February and start nesting in late April, early May. The Flammulated Owls Begin arriving here in Late April and begin nesting in May or June.
 
All the owls raise between two and seven owlets. If they nest in a natural cavity, they usually raise two to three owlets, because a natural cavity frequently is so small it cannot fit more than two owlets and the adult female. If they use a nest box, which is much larger than the natural cavity, they can raise as many as seven.

The young of these owls remain in their cavities for about four weeks before they fledge. After fledging they remain with their parents for about a month before moving out on their own. This movement often occurs in July or August depending upon when they hatched.
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Each fall, after dark, researchers around the country broadcast the calls of the owls and set up a series of mist nets to capture the owls as they move in their wintering grounds. We operate one of those research stations in RMNP where we capture and band both Northern Saw-whet Owls and Boreal Owls.

The reason for banding the birds is to gain insight into where the birds move to and how long they live. Due to the birds being nomadic, we have only had three Northern Saw-whet Owls recaptured. One Northern Saw-whet Owl was banded in Pinewood Springs, about 15 miles east of Estes Park and recaptured in Estes Park two years later. Another bird was recaptured where it was banded in Estes and the third was banded in Estes and recaptured in Eastern Pennsylvania.
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Except for the Flammulated Owls, the owls are vocalizing now and can be heard calling for mates. The Northern Pygmy-Owl is active during the day, and the others are active after dark. Hopefully you can get out this spring and hear/see one or more of these wonderful creatures.

by Scott Rashid
To see and read more from Scott visit his website Colorado Avian Research and Rehabilitation Institute 

There are birds that spend the winter in Rocky Mountain National Park (RMNP), including Townsend’s Solitaires, Black-billed Magpies, Pygmy Nuthatches, Clark’s Nutcrackers, American Robins, Canada Jays, rosy-finches, and Common Ravens. Several species leave the park to spend the winter in Estes Park to find bird feeders, often staying near them feeding until spring.
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As Spring arrives, many avian species begin arriving in the area. Over the years, there have been more than 300 species documented either passing through Estes Park and RMNP, or nesting there. We are very familiar with many of these including Black-Billed Magpies, Steller’s Jays, House Finches, Cassin’s Finches, Cooper’s Hawks, Pine Siskins, Lesser Goldfinches and more.

There are many areas in and around the park where multiple species can be seen. One of the best locations to see birds is Lake Estes and the surrounding area. On the west end of Lake Estes is a bird sanctuary where more than 305 species have been documented.  Many of those use the sanctuary for resting and feeding before moving off to their nesting grounds, others will nest there.

The list of birds that simply pass through in the spring includes Tundra and Trumpeter Swans, Blue-winged Teal, Rudy Duck, Redhead, Killdeer, Bobolink, American Dipper, Sharp-shinned Hawk, MacGillivray’s Warbler, Orange-crowned Warbler, Franklin’s Gull, Ring-billed Gull, California Gull, Wilson’s Snipe, Peregrine Falcon, Prairie Falcon,  Eastern and Western Kingbird, Roug-winged Swallow, and many more.
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Lake Estes and the surrounding area including the dog park, golf course and the marina are great places to search for birds of different species. For example, species including Sandhill Cranes, Killdeer, Long-billed Curlews, Prairie Falcons, Red-tailed Hawks, Savanah, Lincoln’s, White crowned and White-throated Sparrows, are frequently seen on the golf course. Common Loons, Western Grebes, Clark’s Grebes, Wilson’s Phalaropes, Spotted Sandpipers, White-faced Ibis’ and Canvasbacks have been seen from the marina swimming in the lake.

The baseball field, playground, and dog park are good for sparrows, including Lark Buntings, Clay-colored Sparrows, Brewer’s Sparrows, Painted Buntings, Lazuli Buntings, Western Meadowlarks, Gray Catbirds, Brewer’s Blackbirds, Yellow-headed Blackbirds and Mockingbirds.

The species that nest in the sanctuary include Cedar Waxwings, American Robins, Canada Geese, Mallards, Pygmy Nuthatches, Common Grackles, Pine Siskins, Warbling Vireos, and Spotted Sandpipers.  The waterfowl (ducks and geese) often nest on the ground near the water, the waxwings nest along the river, the nuthatches construct their cavities in the trees along the creek and the American Robins and Warbling Vireos construct new nests yearly in different locations.

Within RMNP, many species of raptors migrate through. These include Swainson’s Hawks, Ferruginous Hawks, Golden Eagles, Bald Eagles, Broad-winged Hawks Merlins, and American Kestrels. Other species that move through the park include warblers like the Bay-breasted Warbler, Palm Warbler, Blackpoll Warbler, Magnolia Warbler and more. 

Other species that have been documented passing through include American White Pelicans, Double-crested Cormorants, Franklin’s Gulls, Marbled Godwits, Bonaparte’s Gulls, Common Goldeneye, Lazuli Buntings, Lark Buntings, Harris’s Sparrows, and Gray Catbirds.

The area has had multiple rarities seen including the Baltimore Oriole, Black-throated Sparrow, Black Phoebe, Hooded Warbler, Prothonotary Warbler, Great-crested Flycatcher, Common Redpoll, Summer Tanager, Rusty Blackbird, Painted Bunting, Eastern Bluebird, Yellow-billed Cuckoo, Lesser Nighthawk and the Golden-crowned Sparrow.
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Birds have wings and fly very well, which often means that a rare species can show up almost anywhere. As many rare birds have been seen in and around Estes and RMNP. It is a good idea to get out and search for birds, you may find something rare.

by Murray Selleck

Snow is the lifeblood of Colorado. It is the surface of our winter playground and it is the source of our springtime and summer water. Without snow, Colorado itself (and lots of other western states) would be impossible!

All snow is good and there are all kinds of it. No matter how it falls, or floats, or gets blown from the sky we need every flake. However, just because all snow is good doesn’t mean all snow is easy. Some snow is difficult if not outright dangerous. Heavy wet spring snow is tough to shovel and when snow layers pile up on top of one another avalanches are a constant hazard, especially in Colorado.

The good news is more times than not snow is fun, beautiful, and inspiring. Fun with all its options to go out and play in it. Beautiful in the way it changes color when its surface reflects the light from our sunrises and sunsets. And inspiring in the way that your imagination can run with possibilities. Snowmen, snow caves, snow forts, igloos, and snow sculptures all show how creative and malleable snow can be.
 
Snow is not monolithic. There is not one kind of snow and it is constantly changing as it falls, as the wind blows, or as temperatures rise and fall. With those thoughts in mind here is a list of snow types, conditions, and a bit of winter time slang that you may encounter in Rocky Mountain National Park. What follows is our best attempt at naming all the different kinds of snow we could think of and a brief sentence on how to use it in a conversation.

The food group of defined snow:
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Corn snow is typically found in springtime after a few freeze/thaw cycles. Clear starry nights with bone cold temperatures followed by warm spring-like temperatures will form corn snow. Early in the morning the snow will be crusty hard but as the sun works its magic the crust layer loosens. It is this thin loose layer on top that is corn snow. It becomes easy to ski since it is so carvy and the firm crust underneath supports your weight so you won’t break through.
“We harvested that corn like it was nobody’s business!”
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Sugar snow is found deep within the snowpack often right at ground level. The earth gives off heat even in the dead of winter and the first few snowfalls of the season often transform into an incredibly weak, sugary layer that will not bond to itself or anything else for that matter. It may also be referred to as rotten snow due to its loose nature. You’ll sink right through it if you find a pocket of it close enough to the surface.
“This sugar snow ain’t sweet.” 

Chowder is a mixed bag of wet, clumpy, and really thick snow. Homemade chowder is good eating but chowder snow is nasty skiing. You have to show a great deal of determination to keep your skis going the direction you want them to. Skis tend to deflect off chowder snow sending you and your skis in different directions!
“This chowda sucks!” (Say it like you’re from Maine).

Mashed potatoes snow is similar to chowder in that both snow types are thick and heavy. The only good news is mashed potatoe snow is a bit more consistent but no less energy draining.
“Nothing but mashed potatoes and no gravy today.”

Butter snow is dreamy. Think of a hot knife slicing through butter in your kitchen. Then think of a pair of skis slicing through a layer of snow so easy all you can imagine is carving butter. As with skiing and French cooking butter is an essential ingredient.
“It was sooo good. It was butter!”
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Champagne snow is synonymous with the Steamboat Ski Resort. Champagne snow is some of the driest fluffiest snow on earth. Other definitions of this type of snow are listed below including blower. Snow so light all you have to do to clean your windshield is blow and viola, your done!
“Champagne don’t make me crazy.”

 The Soft Stuff:

Powder snow is the friendliest. Light and soft and the deeper the better. Easy to ski through, easy to break trail through whether on skis or snowshoes, easy to shovel, and easy to exaggerate its depth.
“36 inches easy. In places I bet the powder was up to here!” (Lift your hand up as far up as you can above your head).

Fluff is powder snow… so fluffy it almost doesn’t fall from the sky it is so light.

Blower snow is mentioned above with champagne snow. Blower snow can leave a snowy airborne contrail behind a skier as he or she is making turns. So light and blower it becomes airborne a second or third or fourth time!
“I sneezed and my windshield cleaned itself… it was blower.”

Der is short for powder.
“There's der in those woods!”

Freshies is slang for fresh snow that has fallen overnight.
“Freshies are the best!”
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Pow Pow is when you just can’t think of another description for powder snow.
"Nothing’s greater than rippin’ (making turns in) pow pow!”

The Tough Snow Conditions. Mean snow. Unforgiving snow:

Crud snow is just as it sounds. Cruddy, chopped, inconsistent, and windblown all together at once.
“I can’t ski this crud. I’m going home.”

Mank is another name for cruddy snow. Mank has a wetter and heavier element to it beyond just cruddy. Mank is thick and not funny snow.
“I can’t ski this mank. No joke. I’m going home.”

Sierra cement could be used for home construction right up until the sun shines. Before then sierra cement is the most humid, wet, and thick snow to fall from the sky. While the Sierra Mountains made this snow type infamous it can fall just about anywhere in the mountains if the conditions are right. Three feet of sierra cement could fall overnight and you would still only ski the top few inches of it because of how thick it is.
“This sierra cement is a poor man’s champagne.”
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Suncupped snow is amazing to look at and tough to ski tour or snowshoe over. Think of an empty egg carton… the side that holds the eggs. The deep depressions with curved upped peaks defines suncupped snow nicely. Suncups form in the spring and typically are found on large snowfields. They are a challenge to hike through or ski over since the uneven surface with potentially deep pockets and substantial ridges inhibit an easy stride or surface to balance on.
“Suncups suck but they’re amazing to look at.”

Snow on the Surface:

Hoarfrost are some of the most beautiful snow crystals to be seen. It is worth one's while to look at hoarfrost crystals closely. They occur in an intricate variety of forms. Some of the most beautiful hoarfrost appears like leaves of a fern or feathers from a bird. Hoarfrost can develop on the snowpack surface, tree branches, ski poles left outside, pretty much anywhere. It forms on the ground by direct condensation at temperatures below freezing. See photo above.
"A hoarfrost is beautiful to see but it is also the next weakest layer once new snow buries it."
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Crust forms after sunny warm days followed by freezing nights. Crusts are typically found on south facing slopes, or certainly, where the sun shines brightest including open meadows. Crust snow is very loud snow as you travel over it. If a strong enough crust forms that will support your weight it can be quite fun to ski. Nordic skate skiers will ski a backcountry crust for miles on end and have a blast. Timing is everything since once the day warms up your solid crust may become thick like a slushy.
“Nothing beats a great spring crust day.”
 
Breakable or Fry-able crust is a nasty crust. The crust layer may support you up to a moment, typically just as your confidence builds, only to have it give way underneath you. You may rasp your shin against the crust that remains as it rakes into your legs. It can hurt. It’s worse than snow snakes in powder because of the painful element to your lower legs. Once you have broken through a crust it is tough to regain your balance and get back on top because it will only giveaway again.
“This breakable crust is like the worst *&^#{!!  yuck I've ever tried to ski!”

Dust on crust is when a light snow has fallen overnight on a crusty snow layer. There really isn’t enough snow to make it carvable or to quiet the loud crunch underneath your skis or snowshoes. Dust on crust considered a why bother snow?
“Coma se coma saw… it’s just dust on crust.”
 
Windblown and Spindrift are just as the name suggests. Windblown snow races along the surface creating solid drifts and filling in snowshoe and ski trails until they completely disappear. Windblown snow and spindrift can hurt when it hits you in the face. Little stinging shards of icy snow will have you trying to moonwalk to keep your face out of the wind. On the other hand spindrift can beautiful as it catches sunlight and become tiny airborne rainbows.
1st skier - “This spindrift hurts my face!” 2nd skier - "Your face hurts my face, too!"
 
Bullet proof is similar to a crust snow only this snow is so hard it feels like it could stop a bullet. Bullet proof snow can be formed by freeze/thaw cycles or a hard wind or a long duration between snowstorms. It is so hard you can’t even kick step your way up a slope and climbing skins on your skis are borderline ineffective.
“Ice axes and crampons are the way to go when its bullet proof.”

Falling Snow:

Charlie Brown Snow. There is a scene in a Charlie Brown Christmas when Charlie and Linus and walking to the Christmas tree lot. Snow is falling so lightly you can practically count the snowflakes as they descend. This kind of snow falls with no trace of wind and falls gracefully, smoothly, slowly, magically.
“I love that scene in a Charlie Brown Christmas with the snow falling and a nice mellow jazzy riff as a background soundtrack."

Wind driven, stinging, white out, or blizzard snow can be horrible to be out in. These kind of snows are horizontal snow. It is blowing so hard the snow has zero chance of landing. Of course, it will accumulate somewhere and that will typically be in your ears, nose, eyes, against your back and legs pretty much everywhere you don’t want it to be.
1st person, “I can’t hear or see you!” 2nd person, “What did you say? I can’t even see you!”

Silver dollar snow are snowflakes that are as big or bigger than silver dollars. They’re huge. Typically silver dollar snow falls in the spring as remnants as a storm is on its way out.
“If I had a silver dollar for each of those flakes I could _____ (fill in the blank).”

Graupel is a kind of styrofoamy hail but it is softer than hail and never becomes as big as hail can become. I once had the pleasure of skiing in the backcountry down a slope with practically a foot of graupel. Very unusual to see that much accumulation but really fun to ski. Graupel is a mix of snow crystals and ice but softer and styrofoamy.
"I usually don't grovel about graupel but today I'll make an exception."
 
Snirt and Snain. Are these even real snowflakes? Snirt is snow mixed with dirt. In Colorado the dirty snow that falls can come from the Utah desert or even as far as the Gobi desert. The unfortunate fact about snirt is come springtime dirty snow melts faster than clean snow. Dirty snow can shorten the spring runoff time reducing the amount of moisture that soaks into the ground versus just running off downstream. Snain is snow mixed with rain. Talk about yuck. It is neither snow or rain it is just wet and miserable.
"Snirt, snain, burp, snort, poop... It kinda is all the same thing."

This sums up our snow effort. March can be a banner month for adding to our snowpack. Typically, it is a warmer month so the snow that falls is wetter and heavier. But as we said at the outset... All snow is good snow so the more snow the better. No matter what you call it!

by Marlene Borneman

​"Go to the winter woods: listen there, look, watch, and “the dead months” will give you a subtler secret than any you have yet found in the forest." Fiona Macleod, Where the Forest Murmurs

The name Wild Basin dates back to the early days of Enos and Joe Mills. Wild Basin is the southeastern section of Rocky Mountain National Park and designated as wilderness. It holds the headwaters of the North St. Vrain River and is filled with many lakes, creeks, and waterfalls. It is also home to a number of the most remote and rugged high peaks in the park. Wild Basin is indeed wild!
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Sandbeach Trail January  4, 2024 - Little to no snow describes the beginning of the Sandbeach Lake trail early this year. In fact, there was no need for snowshoes or even microspikes until about 1.5 miles up the trail. Icy spots were manageable and in many places the trail was bare. The start of the trail is on the south facing slopes of a moraine exposing it to the sun. Nonetheless, I found the lack of snow very unusual for January. 

Meeker Park Junction
Approximately 1.5 miles up the trail we reach the Meeker Park Junction. At this point we hiked west where the trail follows a north facing slope.  Here the snow became significant in the trees; however, the trail was well packed requiring only microspikes to be worn. It was very pleasant hiking along this section traveling through a thick conifer forest and aspen groves. Soon, we cross Campers Creek on a short foot bridge.  
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Hunters Creek at 3.2 miles
At 3.2 miles we cross Hunters Creek over another foot bridge. Hunters Creek is a dazzling stream in any season. The winter snows and frigid temperatures transform this creek to a magical scene adorned with dramatic ice crystals and snow sculptures. In summer months its banks are decorated with spectacular wildflowers! At this point the trail becomes steeper and we begin the climb toward the Sandbeach Lake.

 Sandbeach Lake
Sandbeach Lake sits at 10,283 feet. This destination is very popular in summer months as it hosts four individual campsites and one group site. The shoreline is just as its namesake implies. A beautiful serene setting surrounded by fine sand and large boulders complete with spectacular views. To the south St. Vrain and Meadow Mountains with massive Copeland Mountain capturing the scene. To the north there are views of Mount Meeker and Longs Peak. Be cautious about walking out on the lake even on the coldest of days as it is often not completely frozen.

The author enjoying lunch at Sandbeach Lake
A Snickers  bar is a favorite for lunch. Easy and light to carry with little trash to pack out. Winter months offer solitude in Wild Basin. Moose are often seen at the lake and wandering the trail. On this day we did not see any wildlife including no birds. This is rare as the Gray Jay aka “camp robber” is typically all over the place or rather all over your lunch!

Sandbeach Lake:
Sandbeach Lake elevation:  10,283
Round trip from Sandbeach Lake Trailhead:  8.4 miles
​Elevation gain:  1,943

 "A National Park is a fountain of life. It is a matchless potential factor for good in national life. It holds within in its magic realm benefits that are health giving, educational, economic, that further efficiency and ethical relations and are inspirational. Without parks and outdoor life, all that is best will be smothered. Within National Parks is room, glorious room, room in which to think and hope, to dream and plan, to rest and resolve. This is the proudest moment of my life. I have lived to see the realization of a great dream come true. The day is at hand when these wonderful hills and matchless valleys are to be the playground of the world." Enos Mills. Founding Father of Rocky Mountain National Park. Quote from the Day of Dedication establishing RMNP. 1915

​I fell in love with Rocky Mountain National Park in 1971 when I worked a summer at Cheley Colorado Camps. I spent the next 47 years trying to make the Estes Park area my permanent residence. During those years, Rocky was always "home" to me in my heart. For the past 10 years, I have been able to call Rocky not only the home of my heart but the home of my daily life. Helping to preserve beautiful landscapes and wildlife habitat as a steward of the park is my true love. Karla H - NSCU Education

I remember being 6 years old. My family drove to Rocky Mountain National Park each summer when we were kids. We would set up a tent at Glacier Basin campground in the late 1950s and early 1960s. No reservation needed. We would spend 2 weeks each summer hiking the same trails that I now enjoy as a retired, 71-year-old. I moved to Estes Park in 2016. I hike every day that it is safe for hiking. I have every trail tag I can get except for summiting Longs Peak and the hikes that require ropes and/or an overnight on the trail. I get goose bumps every day I drive in to the park. - Kathy Granas, Estes Park resident and hiker.

 Rocky Mountain National Park is like the partner you constantly can't believe you're lucky enough to be with. Its stunning beauty is the backdrop to our lives, and its recreational opportunities feed our souls and make us feel complete. We're so fortunate to have Rocky in our big backyard and we're thankful every day! Rachel Ward Oppermann - Director of Advocacy and Sustainability at Visit Estes Park.

My Beloved Rocky Mountain National Park

Why I’m in love with Rocky.  In 1974 Rocky changed my lifestyle forever!  From 1974-1976 I hiked, climbed, skied, snowshoed in Rocky more days than not. Then came a career, however I always made time to spend in Rocky Mountain National Park.  This Park defines who I am from wildflowers to summits and the  best thing Rocky Mountain National Park gave me was life-long friendships. Marlene Borneman, Author, Mountaineer, Naturalist, Backcountry Skier, and Estes Park resident.

I've written before how I had lost interest in national parks for a very long time. The news reports of visitors behaving badly with wildlife, long lines of traffic, and packed parking lots only confirmed I wanted no part of that scene. However, it was reconnecting with a friend, and going on a multi-day backpacking trip into Rocky Mountain National Park that made me realize how mistaken I had been. Seeing and feeling the grandeur and beauty of RMNP's backcountry after such a long time was overwhelming. How could I have stayed away for so long?

My Valentine thoughts go out to all of RMNP's Rangers, staff, volunteers, and visitors that love RMNP as much as each of us do. Thank you for caring for our national treasure. Thank you for  acknowledging its importance to our world and all that this park offers: beauty beyond measure, solitude and sanctuary, peace and quiet, reflection, and inspiration. Murray Selleck - Rocky Mountain Day Hikes contributor, skier, snowshoer, hiker, and backpacker. 

​Oh Rocky, My Rocky (with apologies to the Bard)

Oh Rocky, my Rocky
How do I embrace thee?

I love thy terrain and elevation
Thy montane, subalpine, and alpine

I roam beneath your budding aspen in springtime,
Their quaking leaves of summertime,
Their illumination of brilliant yellow, rich gold, and
Autumn shades of orange.

I meander beneath your towering Ponderosa Pines of the montane,
Your snow-laden Engelmann Spruce glens of the the subalpine,
Your gnarled and twisted Limber Pines 
Clinging to the rock outcrops in the windswept terrain

I close my eyes and soak in the radiant rays of sunlight
beside your icy lakes, your glassy lakes, your Lake of Glass, 
Your Lion Lakes and Spectacle Lakes, Your Odessa and Spirit Lakes.

I long to rest along your clear and cold, babbling Boulder Brook, 
Your Icy Brook, your Roaring Fork and Roaring River,
To feel the exhilaration and force of your Grace Falls, 
Your Timberline Falls, Your Cascade Falls, Your Thousand Falls

I love to listen to the spring song of the Green-tailed Towhee
To dream of the Dark-eyed Junco, 
To marvel at the agility of the Pygmy Nuthatch, and
To gaze at the sharp eyed Mountain Chikadee-dee-dee,

With adoration I outstare the Stellers Jay and the Clark’s Nutcraker, 
I soar aloft with Birds of Prey and dance to the rhythm of the American Dipper,
I spy the hidden White-tailed Ptarmigan in summer and winter, 
I follow the fluttering Mountain Bluebird in the early spring and
Ruby-throated Hummingbird appraising the mid-summer flowers.
I am over-joyed to give ear to the solitary song of the White-crowned Sparrow 
As I approach the hushed sound of Crystal Lake lying beneath Fairchild Mtn.

I knell to honor your Fairyslipper, your Snow-lily, and your Elephantella,
I sing praise to your Colorado Columbine, your Parry Primrose, and your Mountain Iris, 
I bow bedazzled before your Alpine Forget-me-not, your Old-Man-of-the-Mountain, and 
Your Arctic Gentian, 
I wish to be the buzzing Bumble bee probing the depths of the glorious Golden Banner.

How can I not be astonished by the bugling bull Elk, and the head-butting bighorn,
How can I not wonder about the elusive black bear and the stealthy mountain lion,
How can I not grin at the spectacle of the Least Chipmunk, the Chickaree, and the Abert’s Squirrel.
How can I not adore the hairy feet of the Snowshoe hare and the rounded ears of the Pika.

My eyes lift upward in spiritual wonderment at your jagged peaks that divide a continent,
With awe I am inspired by the Ypsilon Mtn, the Pagoda Mtn, and the Notchtop Mtn.
I ponder the miraculous centuries of creation of the Little Matterhorn, the Spearhead, and the Hayden Spire,
I long for Longs Peak giving its Diamond to Mt Lady Washington.

Oh Rocky, my Rocky,
Rocky of the masses,
Rocky of the ages,
What a rogue and peasant slave am I.
I am that merry wanderer of the trail.
A merrier hour was never wasted.

Dave Rusk, rockymountaindayhikes.com & Hike Rocky Magazine publisher, hiker, backpacker, photographer, Estes Park resident, RMNP volunteer and philosopher. 

by Marlene Bornean
(Editor's Note: This article compares winters from 2020 through 2023 with photos showing a variety of conditions and what you can encounter while hiking up to and summiting Flat Top Mountain in Rocky Mountain National Park.

Rocky Mountain National Park provides year round recreational opportunities. In winter months back-country skiing, snowshoeing, ice skating and trekking on spikes are popular activities. With increasing winter visitation in Rocky the trails are often packed down enough spikes are the only equipment needed on popular trails. I prefer to ski the trails when the snow conditions are prime. My husband, Walt, and I are out in all weather and all conditions since Rocky is our backyard.

One must be equipped and prepared in any season but particularity in winter months.  Being familiar with the Ten Essentials as well as packing layers is the key to having a safe and fun winter experience. Knowing when to turn back is a “must” skill.

November 3, 2021 was very cold with extreme winds on the Flattop trail. We hiked above treeline but did not make the summit due to the harsh conditions. A frigid day with an unforeseen surprise, spotting a covey of white-tailed Ptarmigans on the snow covered tundra. I heard them before seeing them. Their clucking, soft hoots caused me to stop and search for tiny black eyes and bills in the pure white snow. I saw one, then two, then over a dozen in the deep snow.

White-tail ptarmigans are the only birds to live on the alpine tundra year round with white plumage in winter and gray-brown in summer. Breeding males have a red eye comb. In winter months they use snow drifts for shelter and sustained themselves on willow buds. White-tailed ptarmigans have a thick layer of feathers on their legs, feet and toes not only adding warmth but acting like snowshoes. The day reminded me of a quote by John Muir, “…the blessings of one mountain day; whatever his fate, long life, short life, stormy or calm, his is rich forever.”
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This is me (Marlene) at the summit of Flat Top Mountain. What a contrast in weather conditions compared to one year earlier! This is a comparatively warm windless day on the summit. Nearly one year earlier, on the same mountain, we experienced significant cold and challenging wind (see the very top photo of this article). And isn't that why we keep coming back? Our mountain experiences, even on the same summit, are never the same but always wonderful. 

December 2023. Another very cold winter day on the Flattop Mountain trail.  However, we did not have much wind until we reached treeline. No sightings of ptarmigans but their tracks where everywhere!  

December 21, 2023. This day did not reveal ptarmigans, but another creature known to the alpine tundra: the fascinating pika. Even though they belong to the rabbit family they appear more like a guinea pig! Pikas live in colonies on talus slopes making their homes among the rocks. They do not hibernate. They simply tolerate the harsh winters.

In summer months you may see them harvesting their favorite food, alpine avens. Pikas store avens and other plants in “hay” piles deep in their rocky homes. They feed on these “hay” piles all winter. Sharp squeaks are their way of  communicating to other pikas and alerting to danger. On this day we observed a pika quietly sheltering against a large boulder from the fierce strong winds.

Dusty grouse are often seen in the subalpine forest on the Flattop Mountain Trail. Grouse are rather large birds weighing up to three pounds. They have a pale gray band on a rounded tail. Dusky grouse enjoy the high country in winter and in spring move down slightly to lower meadows for nesting.

Every winter season is different as is every day is in the high country of RMNP. So far, this 2023/2024 winter season has been lacking snow. Here the trail has a thin covering of packed snow. No need for snowshoes just spikes for traction.

These two photos show arctic conditions and strong gale force winds sculpturing snow into fine art during the winters of 2021 and 2023..

This overlook makes for a great second breakfast or snack stop. It provides shelter before reaching treeline with a stunning view of Emerald Lake below, Mills Lake in the distance and the striking Longs Peak massif. During the winter of 2020, as soon as I stopped at  Emerald Lake Overlook, a curious and rather bold pika came right up to my boot!

Flat Top Mountain and Flat Top Mountain Trail
Flattop elevation:  12,324
Round Trip from Bear Lake:  8.8 miles
Elevation gain:  2,874 

Winter is magical. It is awe inspiring and... mythical. Some of the mythical part comes from people believing in lots of misconceptions about winter. These wintertime myths keep far too many people cooped up indoors. Repeated often enough folks believe these myths to be true and they wind up resenting winter or worse, hating it. Their misery only intensifies as the days become shorter and the snow deeper. Symptoms like seasonal affective disorder (sad), boredom, depression, and lethargy are no way to live. The cure is to not believe everything you hear about winter.

At Rocky Mountain Day Hikes we love winter and all it has to offer. So as we debunk as many of these myths we can think of put on your warm clothes, hat, jacket and gloves. Grab your snowshoes or skis and lets get outside and enjoy winter for all its worth!  ​

​Myth: XC skiing and snowshoeing are boring. False. “We just went for a snowshoe tour.” I use to hear this disparaging remark often when I worked retail in a mountain shop. This phrase, with the emphasis on "just" discounts these activities as if the only worthy winter sport is downhill skiing. In fact, xc skiing and snowshoeing are equally as exciting or even more so. Hands down these two winter activities provide a major boost to your overall physical and mental health. They provide a great cardiovascular workout increasing heart and lung health. And, arguably, they allow you to connect with nature in a more significant way by slowing down and acknowledging the beauty surrounding you.

​Myth: If avalanche risk is rated at low or moderate you can ski or ride anywhere. False. Always keep your guard up when traveling through the backcountry whether you are snowshoeing, skiing, snowboarding, or hiking. Avalanches can occur year round. A reduced risk does not eliminate risk. Take avalanche awareness courses to educate yourself and your backcountry partners. Be aware of the overall avalanche danger by checking the CAIC website. And always play it smart.
​
Myth: If avalanche risk is rated at high or extreme stay out of the backcountry no matter what. False. There are many places that are safe to travel in the backcountry when conditions are ripe for avalanches. It is easy to avoid avalanche terrain. Stay on flat or very low angle terrain. Tour through wide open meadows. Avoid all suspicious slopes. Be aware of potential avalanche terrain above you. You may be on flat terrain but what do the slopes and ridges above you look like? Avoid terrain traps where an avalanche (big or small) might trap you. Do not take unnecessary risks, stay off all slopes that look suspicious. Typically when avalanche risk is at its highest the winter weather is at its stormiest. While it can be fun to ski or snowshoe during a winter storm take all precautions to stay safe and warm so you can and enjoy many winter days to come!

I walked up the slope in silence, overcome by how barren the landscape looked. Charred trees stood with bare branches, devoid of life. The morning sun blasted through, baking the ground. The ground lacked any cover, excepting for occasional patches of blooming Arnica, their happy yellow flowers loving the sun but seemingly out of place. ​

The Lodge closed for good the following year and sat vacant except by vandals before the Park finally removed it in 1976. Only the 1925 Patrol Cabin remained, and now that too is gone, one of the many casualties the Park endured from the East Troublesome Fire last October. 

Finally having reached the lake and standing in the very place where the Lodge once stood, I could see how the path of the fire split and pushed around the lake with one leg of the fire coming in from the northwest, engulfing the Patrol Cabin, and then skirting the western shoreline before racing east across the hillside that separated Fern Lake from Odessa Lake and heading up Mt Wuh, leaving the south and east shoreline mostly untouched. ​

I wandered down to the footbridge that crosses the outlet stream. Standing in the middle, I gazed into the clear mountain water of the little outlet pool surrounded by green vegetation and reflecting Notchtop Mtn above. The view across the lake was a mix of green and brown/black, but still an inspiring view. 

I decided to hike the additional 0.7 miles to Lake Odessa. Walking through another charred section of the trail, I observed the trail work that the Park described in their Historic Places report as, “some of the largest and most complex rock walls in the park and utilized Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) labor.” 

What a relief when I finally I crossed out of the fire zone and back into beautiful subalpine terrain, walking along a cascading mountain stream with lush green ground cover and green forested hillsides spectacularly framing Notchtop on the path to Odessa Lake. Snacking on the lake shore along with other hikers that had dropped into this paradise on the trail from Bear Lake, I took in the quiet, watching small wispy clouds float along. This was truly Rocky Mountain splendor.

The weekly spring snowstorms rolled in like waves crashing onto the beach and like a surfer watching to ride the crest, I watched the weather to catch the sunny days. It was getting into the latter part of May and while we had been getting a few warm days causing the snow to begin melting off the trails, just as quickly the springs snows were adding inches back on. 

On this day, the trail remained snow-packed in the shade of the trees, but the summer sun was having it's effect and some areas where the sun could reach were snow free. The trail gradually climbs 500ft for the first mile, then drops 250ft the next 1/2 mile, before rising 600ft for another 1/2 mile to Storm Pass. The last seven tenths of a mile climbs 750 before obtaining the summit of Estes Cone at 11,006ft.

​(Continues below)

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Go to the Twin Sister Trail Profile  in the RMNP Trail Guide

Suddenly, we break out of the trees where the trail cuts across a rocky talus slope, snow covered in these spring conditions.   A couple more switchbacks brought us to the saddle between the two “sisters.” ​

Here a stone hut and a radio communication tower stand which are still used today for emergency purposes.  We stay right of the stone hut then turn slightly left up a small gulley.  Scrambling up the rock outcroppings we work our way up to the western summit.   A fire lookout tower used to rest on the summit but now just a bit of history as it was taken out in 1977.
​

We headed down for lunch near the stone hut gazing over to the eastern summit. We decided to forgo the east summit and retrace our steps back in the snow. The snow had softened so much we could easily “boot-ski” to timberline! The snow had also melted considerably at the end of the trail leaving thick, sloppy mud behind.  Mud season 2021 had officially arrived!

Story and photos by Barb Boyer Buck

Back on skis after 20 years!

​I broke my back 21 years ago.  It was a fracture which resulted in spondylolisthesis and it brought on years of physical therapy, chiropractic treatments, loss of mobility, and pain.  It was the time when orthopedic surgery was very much feared, and outcomes were relatively unpredictable.  It was also the time when conservative treatment was recommended and surgery was avoided at all costs.   

I was told to give up skiing altogether, and especially snowboarding.  "One wrong fall and you could be paralyzed," was the doctor's advice.  Pretty scary stuff.  

But by 2018, I could barely walk, had to quit my job waiting tables (which supplemented my writing career) and I had pretty much given up most of the things that gave me pleasure, most notably outdoor recreation in the form of hiking and of course, skiing. 

I finally went to an orthopedic center to have an x-ray.  After seeing the results, the surgeon scheduled me for an emergency 3-level spinal fusion the very next week.  

I can see why people avoid this surgery, recovery was long and extremely painful.  To make a living, I crocheted and sold hats.  It was incredibly boring, to say the least. 

But today, I am almost back to normal!  So, I decided to try cross-country skiing again, something I had enjoyed for many years before my back injury. 

Dave Rusk, the publisher of Hike Rocky Magazine and an extremely patient man, agreed to accompany me and give me a refresher lesson.   Here's a video of that day, which took place on March 1 of this year. 

We rented equipment from the Estes Park Mountain Shop, and I was very pleasantly surprised at how far cross-country skis had come!  I definitely want to get the kind of skis I was using that day. 

In order to get the most out of my "lesson," I needed to start from scratch.  The patience I had developed during my nearly three years of recovery helped with this.  I approached xc skiing as if I had never done it before and thereby, I was able to take advantage of tips that Dave provided.   

First, I want to talk about the equipment.  These days, you can opt for skis that have scaling on the bottom of them,  where your boots clip in on the other side.  This helps you when going up inclines - you can literally walk on the snow with them.  Technically, they are called backcountry skis and you can "walk" up slopes and ski down them, which many people like to do at Hidden Valley.  I'm not ready for that yet, by the way.  Marlene Borneman explains about these type of skis in her piece, "Ski tracks in Rocky," published in the February, 2021, edition of HIKE ROCKY magazine. 

It's so much easier than waxing skis, or even putting on skins when you are doing a cross-country tour on sloped trails (most of the trails in Rocky Mountain National Park are sloped, by the way).  

The bindings on these new skis are so convenient. You can just toe-kick into them, and twist to take them off.  I rented the entire package, which included poles and boots, too, for about $20. 

​The place we chose for my first time back was Endovalley; the road to the picnic grounds is closed for the winter and can be used for skiing, snowshoeing, or when the snow melts off, walking.  It extends past the Fall River Road fork and ends at the picnic grounds.  The road is fairly level. 

I put on my skis just after the "road closed" gate and tried to recapture the feeling of skiing by taking a few tentative kick/glides.   On the newer skis, it felt more stable.  

If I stood straight, putting my full weight on the middle of the skis, they stopped sliding and I could "walk" on them.  In order to ski, I needed to learn forward slightly, bend one knee and kick backward, with the other leg extending out.  Alternating legs, eventually I started to feel a rhythm and began gliding. 

When I started to feel unsteady, I just straightened up again.   This was a big difference from the skis I used to have; my cross country skis from the late 80s were much more narrow with very smooth bottoms.  Stopping was always an adventure on those. 

The poles helped keep me steady, too - these need to fit into your hands while your elbows are bent at a 90-degree angle.  

Skiing on the road was a bit difficult because it was icy in spots and melting while we were on it.  As you learned in the above video, the only time I fell was when I tried to ski off the road to a picnic bench, missing a turn on the slight downhill slope. 

It was a wonderful adventure and even though I'll probably need to wait until next year to do it again, I'm looking forward to it! 

by Dave Rusk

The forecast was billed as clear and mild, but there was a high level of thin clouds screening the sun with a mild breeze. Walking out of the treeline, there was also a dark and somewhat ominous lenticular cloud hovering like a giant UFO off somewhere over Netherland, or maybe Ward.

The tundra above treeline had been swept clear of any deep snow with the only snow accumulations occurring on the leeward side of willow shrubs. The Diamond of Longs came into view, obscured partially by Mt Lady Washington. We also could see our immediate destination, Granite Pass, to the north. 

We had anticipated an increase in wind once on the west side of Granite Pass, but it continued to stay mostly calm with occasional gusts, pretty pleasant for this first day of February. 

Threading through the Boulderfield now, we turned our gaze to the north of Longs Peak along the north ridge to our destination, Storm Peak. Appearing as mostly a knob on the ridge next to the dominating Longs Peak, the summit of Storm is at a very respectful 13,326'. 

Having traveled the 6 miles to get to the base of Storm Peak, the unknown question we had was what kind of snow would we find. It needed to be hard enough to make solid steps in. We had brought crampons if the conditions warranted them.

While there was some soft stuff layered on the surface, there was also some more solid footing underneath, so we continued to work our way up.

The sun made more of an appearance moving into the afternoon and when the wind wasn't blowing, it felt a little balmy. But when those wind gust did come up, picking up and blowing small snow particles into our face, we had to turn away and wait for the gust to blow off.

About three quarters of the way up, the slope angle became too steep for my comfort zone and I perched myself on a rock outcrop, pulled out a thermos, and took a coffee break while Kip completed the ascent to the ridge giving him a commanding view into the Glacier Gorge, with frozen Black Lake below and endless peaks to the west and north.

With shadows starting to grow long in the afternoon light, we descend through the Boulderfield.

Story and photos by Barb Boyer Buck
 
A hike to Emerald Lake, that was the intention.  It had lightly snowed overnight and the sky was a cloudless, cobalt blue.  Most importantly, there wasn’t any wind. If you don’t know about the wind in the eastern foothills of Colorado – most notably in the valleys– well, It’s brutal.  When air is forced over the Continental Divide and combines with Chinook upslope winds, the result is a cacophony of directionless and fierce wind. It’s just as crazy-making as the sound of a symphony warming up. 

When I was the renewable energy manager for the Town of Estes Park, my team thought perhaps wind turbines would be able to harness this crazy wind, but no.  The wind comes from too many directions, is too fast (70-90 mph is not uncommon) and is never consistent.  It’s either windy or it’s not, at least from October through April. 

​I was excited to take a hike in the fresh snow with no wind.  But it was a late start – we probably didn’t reach the Emerald Lake Trailhead until close to 1 p.m.   I brought my snowshoes just in case, but micro-spikes and poles worked just fine.

From its trailhead, Emerald Lake is 1.8 miles, so we figured we’d get there around 3 and have plenty of time to get back down before dark.  It was nearly a month after Winter Solstice and the days were getting a bit longer. 

​But we were stopped quite literally in our tracks with almost every step. 

​Snow doesn’t usually stay on the tress very long in RMNP (again, the wind) but that day, it covered every branch like fluffy icing, it sparkled in the full sun. 

The views along the way were spectacular and even with my cell phone, I was able to capture amazingly clear photos with great detail. 

​This was a function of the afternoon lighting as well, which became increasingly rich as the day wore on.  

​The Emerald Lake Trailhead is by far the most popular one in Rocky Mountain National Park, any time of the year.  This day, a Tuesday in mid-January, was no exception.  There were a lot less people than in the summer months, but the route was still fairly crowded. ​

Here’s the etiquette for passing on the trail: those traveling up have the right-of-way.  This is especially important when the trail is snow packed and/or icy.  Further measures to take during these COVID times is to step aside, pull up your mask (if it’s down), and turn your back to the trail.  Six feet of distance is just not possible on these popular trails. 

​But I found myself stopping many more times than I technically needed to because of the stunning sights, especially of the Keyboard of the Winds formation on the “back” side of Longs Peak.  The wind I was talking about earlier can make some unearthly sounds as it passes through this jagged ridge.
The trail to Emerald Lake is packed full of amazing views and destinations – if you count Bear Lake (which is just a few steps from the trailhead) you see four lakes, amazing views of Longs Peak, many other stunning peaks, and beautiful geologic formations. 

The first destination along the trail is Nymph Lake.  In the winter, when the lakes are frozen over “winter trails” are established at each lake which cross over the frozen waters.  Be very careful when you do this – sometimes the ice is thin in places you cannot see.  Make sure that every lake is completely frozen on all edges before you try to walk across it.
​
Views of Hallet Peak, first seen over Bear Lake, were now joined with the spires of Flattop Mountain. 

A bit further up, and you reach Dream Lake with more  stunning views of  these features.   

​Other things we noticed at Dream Lake were the limber pines (colloquially, twisted pines).  These trees are actually shaped by the wind as they grow, and they are some of the oldest living organisms on earth. 

​Some limber pines in RMNP date back over 1,000 years, according to a report by several federal forestry agencies, “Limber Pine Conservation in Rocky Mountain National Park,” published in 2013.  

​At this point on our hike, the sun was setting – as it sank over the peaks shading Dream Lake, a final alpenglow lit the scene in a spectacular way. ​

Emerald Lake was not to be, not that day.  But it’s days like that which make me glad to be alive. 

​For me, rushing past the gifts of Nature, especially when they were laid out so beautifully for us to experience, is unforgivable.  Emerald Lake isn’t going anywhere, and neither am I.  ​

By Dave Rusk

It was 20 days past the Winter Solstice last week when we ventured up into the Glacier Gorge area. Even though it was still 60 days until the Spring Equinox, the snowpack at the trailhead was very thin and it seemed like it wouldn't take much warmth to melt it away. But on this day, the trail was still snow covered, the skies were blue, and there was hardly a wiff of wind. The morning temperature was still cold.

We quickly moved up the trail to where the mostly snowed over Icy Brook dropping out of the Loch Vale joins with Glacier Creek.  The snow was deeper here where it is sun and wind protected. 

We climbed up out of the drainage heading toward Mills Lake. The lake was frozen solid and there was still a couple of inches of snow on the lake that had fallen a few days before. We trudged across the middle of the lake to the far end.

Once at the south end of Mills Lake, we followed the short drainage that connects Mills Lake to the small Jewell Lake and crossed it. At the south end of that lake, there was an area where Glacier Creek flows into Jewel Lake where the snow did not stick, like maybe the warmth of the water melted the snow, but left these odd puff balls of large flakes. It was kind of an odd phenomenon that was hard to explain.

After Jewel Lake, we returned to the trail and worked through the blowdown area from a Nov 2011 wind event and started to move into the upper part of Glacier Basin with Arrowhead appearing to the west and then finally McHenry's Peak. 

Once at Black Lake, also with a thin layer of of snow on it, we moved up the drainage that leads to the upper hanging valley. Part way up, now at about noon, with the sun at it's zenith for the day, we stopped for a bite to eat and take in the amazing view. The day had been warm and we were casual on our break. In the summer, there are lots of seeps, water that flows out of the cracks on down the rock face. These had turned into ice flows as the winter temperatures settled in.

Up to this point, the trail to Black Lake was pretty well packed from snowshoers the previous day and shoe spikes was all that was needed for travel. But for moving into the upper basin, we decided to go with snowshoes.

We climbed up into the Upper Basin that sits at the western base of Longs Peak. There was only one set of tracks and they were several days old, someone without snowshoes. Despite being mid day, the sun sat low on the horizon and I needed to use my gloved hand to shade the camera lens.

From the upper basin, McHenrys Peak and Arrowhead rise dramatically to the west and turning behind us, we could see all the way across to the Mummy Range in the north. Jet contrails were the only things breaking up the blue sky.

We navigated our way through the boulder fields heading for Green Lake. There was snow coverage over the krumholtz shrubs, but grass, willows and rock cairns were poking through the thin layer of snow.

The sun had now dropped behind Chiefs Head Mtn and the temperature started to drop and the downslope wind picked up. But the Key Board of the Winds rock formation continued to bask in the afternoon light.

Finally at Green Lake at the base of Pagoda Mtn, we stopped for some more food and water before heading back down. We had caught a beautiful day in the Park.

Trails Correspondent Marlene Borneman reports in on her recent trip to the West Side Of Rocky Mountain National Park:

West Side RMNP

This past week my husband and I got to spend time on the west side of RMNP.  Please do not misunderstand when I say we have held the west side of Rocky special in our hearts for many years.  We enjoy every square inch of Rocky from corner to corner.  However, as soon as Trail Ridge Road opens in the spring until it closes in the fall, we hike, climb and backpack as much as possible on the west side of the divide.  There is something about fewer trails, remote lakes/peaks and the sheer ruggedness that is a strong pull. The west side of the divide receives more precipitation resulting in lush, captivating forest, powerful waterfalls, vast meadows and a variety of plant life.

Summer 2020 was no exception.  We did several cross-country hikes and backpacking trips to remote areas.  I’m pleased we took the time and effort to make these trips happen and fully took in all that surrounded us.  Who knew what was to happen in the coming weeks that would dramatically take that away?   

I read reports and have seen a few photos of the trailheads from the fire damage, but nothing prepares you for hiking/snowshoeing the trails that are affected by the Troublesome Creek fire! The blacken sticks on the hillsides, charred lichen on rocks, the private cabin in Summerland Park along the North Inlet Trail destroyed.  I worry about the streams; will they be healthy?  I feel much discomfort,  but strangely also comfort in nature’s healing.

I am thankful for what the fire did not take away.  Much of the Never Summer Range is intact, Timber Lake Trail, Colorado River Trail, Holzwarth Ranch  intact.  I saw bright spots among the destruction; snow on the ground and frozen ice crystals that will nourish plant life, a green ponderosa pine sapling, , the sunset over Mount Craig and Grand Avenue with shops and restaurants open for business.

Thank you Snowy Peaks Winery for sponsoring Notes From the Trail

Visit : www.snowypeakswinery.com

The weather prediction for Estes Park was for sun on this first day of winter, the shortest day of the year, but a blanket of clouds hung low on the mountain peaks as we began our trek up the Flattop Mtn trail from Bear Lake on our way toward Odessa Lake.

The trail was mostly packed, but there was enough soft snow that we decided to put the snowshoes on early, we knew we would eventually. Morning sun filtered through the trees and the temperature was moderate.

Most of the trail along the lower eastern flank of Flattop Mtn was packed and as we looked east into the Estes Valley, we could see that it was sunny, and lacking snow. But where we were, at just over 10,000ft, there was about 1-3 ft of settled snow. A little further on and you can see the fire scar on Mt Wuh.

The trail travels through subalpine spruce and even though we were close to treeline at this point, there are some big spruce trees in this part. This is also a difficult section of trail to route fine in the winter as the trail often gets covered over with blown snow off Flattop Mtn in an area known in the winter as the Flattop Drift.

Keeping track of where to go can be difficult if no one has traveled through recently. It can also be a spot where you can follow the tracks of someone who doesn't know where the trail goes and you end up wandering around until you eventually happen upon the trail, or just make your own way.

Once around on the north side of Flattop Mtn, before the trail descends into the Odessa Gorge, there are two smallish ponds, Two Rivers Lake and Lake Helene, that most people pass by in the summertime on their way to Odessa Lake, but become the common destinations in the winter. On a clear day, Notchtop Mtn rises dramatically and there are fabulous views from these two lakes.  But on this day, unless the clouds began to lift off, most of Notchtop Mtn remained hidden from view.

It was very windy at Lake Helene as is usually the case in the winter, and the lake was frozen over but free of snow. We braced ourselves against the wind and crossed over. We could tell we were right at the edge of the clouds, looking north Joe Mills Mtn kept appearing and then disappearing into the clouds. It would be like that all day. We continued past Lake Helene and started up towards Ptarmigan Glacier and into the clouds.

We really didn't have a specific destination at this point. It was a matter of how far could we safely go and leave enough time for the return before dark. Higher up, there is an unnamed tarn that sits roughly at the bottom of Ptarmigan Glacier. 

We crossed over and marveled at the designs of the frozen air bubbles. 

We had switched from snowshoes to spikes at this point and the travel up was slow, but it was easy to pick our way up the hillside. We were getting into some steeper terrain and in certain places there was a lot of debris on the snow that had come down from above. 

We crossed over a snowfield to a rock outcrop and decided we had reached our high point for the day. 

It had been our hope that as the day went on the clouds would begin to lift and give us that magical site of mountains emerging through the clouds. ​But the clouds just hung in there only giving us glimpses of the sunny day beyond. We made our way over to Two Rivers Lake before returning to the trail. 

It had been a great first day of winter!

Yesterday was Winter Solstice. Over the last 48 hours or so, on the last day of Fall, we have been experiencing a winter wind storm with steady nonstop high winds and incredibly forceful gusts. The kind of wind that if you were a pica up in the tundra, you would want to be deep in your little cozy hole, far below the surface, surrounded by lots of dry flowers and grasses, curled up in a tight ball, fast sleep with visions of sugar-plums dancing in your head, while the wind ravaged those poor little tundra plants at the surface. It’s the kind of wind that sculptures bristlecone pine trees into marvelous twisted living art. The kind of wind that is so forceful it inspires awe.  

​Having completed our shakedown trek to Sky Pond two weeks earlier, my brother and I felt ready to take on winter as it is on the east side of the Divide. So, late in the week last week we decided to head to Andrews Glacier, one of the eight named glaciers in Rocky Mountain National Park. Andrews Glacier sits between Taylor Peak to the south and Otis Peak to the north. Andrews Tarn is nestled at the base of the Andrews Glacier which, over the centuries, carved out a very high hanging valley that sits on the other side of The Sharkstooth Ridge from Sky Pond.

Still, it was warm enough that as we worked our way up, I would occasionally pull off my cap off my head to regulate my body temperature. Once I cooled down enough, the cap went back on. We continued up the Sky Pond trail until crossing on the footbridge that spans Andrews Creek, and then branched off the main trail and began heading into the Andrews Creek drainage.  

Once down into the treeline, we did not follow our tracks out, but choose instead to stay in the basin until we reached the Sky Pond trail, completing our loop. Our legs were tired, but we knew darkness was approaching quickly. We barely beat the darkness back to the parking lot and found that we were the last car in the lot. Cheers went up at what had turned into an adventurous day.

It was 17 days before the Winter Solstice and the sun was getting low on the horizon. The temperature above 9,000ft had stayed below freezing, but on this day, the temperature hovered near the freezing mark and the sun felt warm, even spring like. 17 days after Winter Solstice would put us into early January and I would hope by then the temperature would feel considerably colder.

(Click on the photos for a larger image)

In other words, it was a pretty mild day, on top a string of mild days, for our first winter venture out for the season. My hiking partner and I were heading up the four and a half miles to Sky Pond. We found the trail covered with packed snow, but not icy, so we knew there had not been very many days above freezing, which would make the trail icy with the melting and freezing.

Alberta Falls was pretty well frozen over with thick ice for the winter, though we could hear the water flowing below the ice, but snow had not yet covered over the falls. It had been a while since there had been any significant snowfall.

Not far past the falls and a short step off the trail there's an overlook that looks off to the north. To the left, the crags of Flattop Mtn above Emerald Lake are barely visible. In the foreground, the Bear Lake Road switchbacks up, and off in the distance were the snowy Mummy Range. Normally, those would be the notable features to point out at this spot. But this year, sitting in the middle of all of that is Mt Wuh and the burn scar visible on its' western slope from the recent Troublesome fire. That part of the Park is currently closed to hikers.

We continue on, following the windy trail around the east Glacier Knob until, finally around its east flank, the Loch Vale comes into spectacular view. Even though it was near mid-day, the low sun cast bands of sunlight across the scene. But in the far distance, the Taylor Peak massif basked in the midday sun. 

It was quite a stellar day once we reach The Loch. The lake had completely frozen over and there were many tracks that headed across it, which we followed. There was about and inch of snow on top of the ice, which indicated that there had not been even a wiff of wind since whenever the last little bit of snow fell, very unusual. Timberline Falls was, of course, spectacularly frozen over and on the return, we watched as a couple of ice climbers make short work of a one pitch ascent of the right falls.

This was a shake down hike. We had gathered our winter gear and needed to figure out what we had forgotten for future trips. But we felt we scored a pretty good first winter day out with fantastic conditions.
​Now, bring on the snowstorms!! We're ready!!

In 2015 Rocky Mountain National Park celebrated its 100th birthday!  Three weeks ago, I celebrated my sixty-eighth birthday.  I’m learning that with the aging process comes both physical and emotional scars.  I have an appendix scar, back surgery scar, in-situ melanoma scar, scar from childhood slide accident and a few other minor scars.

​The deaths of my parents, my sister, dear friends and a divorce left me with emotional scars.  I have healed and live a rich life in spite of these scars.  Rocky has it share of scars too from beetle kills, floods, fire, and even initials carved  into aspen trees. ​

by Barb Boyer Buck

The fires surrounding my home in Estes Park caused me to evacuate for a time with my parents; experiencing the mass exodus under midday dark-orange skies with suffocating smoke and ash is something I won’t forget soon.
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Wildfire is common in the wilderness of the Rocky Mountains but this ongoing situation is unprecedented. 

The Cameron Peak Fire started in the Arapaho and Roosevelt National Forests, less than 100 miles north of Estes Park, on August 13 when the Pine Gulch Fire, 18 miles north of Grand Junction, had already burned more than 137,000 acres.  Pine Gulch was declared the largest wildfire in Colorado’s history until Cameron Peak grew much larger; today, the Cameron Peak Fire has grown to 208,913 acres with 89% containment.  

​This is the equivalent of nearly half of the acreage contained in Boulder County, or more than twice the size of the City of Denver.  ​

On August 14, the Williams Fork Fire started 10 miles southwest of Fraser, Colorado, and has burned nearly 15,000 acres with 76% containment. 
On October 14, the East Troublesome Fire ignited north of Hot Sulphur Springs, west of the Continental Divide.  High winds pushed the fire more than 100,000 acres overnight, extending north into the west side of Rocky Mountain National Park.   

Grand County Sherriff Brett Schroetlin reported this fire growth as “unheard of. This is the worst of the worst of the worst,” he said, in an interview with NPR.  Today, the East Troublesome Fire’s footprint is 193,804 acres with 37% containment.

On October 17 three miles northwest of Jamestown, the Calwood Fire started.  It is currently 76% contained and has consumed more than 10,000 acres.
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The Lefthand Canyon fire began on October 18, one mile west of Ward and consumed 438 acres of brush and timber before it was 100% contained on Oct. 22. ​

Also on Oct. 22, the East Troublesome Fire experienced another “unheard of” growth, jumping over the Continental Divide in Rocky Mountain National Park, miles of rock and tundra that usually provide a natural fire break.  As of today, this spot fire, named the Thompson Zone, has burned 4,346 acres just west of Estes Park, within the boundaries of the national park. ​

Way back in 1996, the Rocky Mountains experienced a cyclical, natural event: the beginning of a pine-beetle infestation.  Pine beetles are insidious creatures, boring into the bark of lodgepole pines and slowly killing them.  Pine-beetle infestations occur every 30 years or so, but this one was different. 

​This one LASTED for nearly 30 years because of the increasingly warm climate.  If it doesn’t get cold enough in the winter, the beetles don’t die and continue their destruction of our forests. ​

A pine tree that has been infested with pine beetles is killed from the inside out.  Their needles turn red and eventually fall off; what’s left become “gray ghosts.”
Since 2009, these gray ghosts have been more and more prevalent in Rocky Mountain National Park; 95 percent of Colorado’s lodgepole pine forests were killed during this infestation which began to abate in about 2015.

These dead, yet standing, trees also create extreme fire danger.
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Now, add the extended drought Colorado has been experiencing and it becomes clear, it would take only a few years to create the tinderbox that is burning all around my town.  According to RMNP’s website, Colorado has been experiencing warmer-than-normal conditions for the past decade.  ​

But those conditions still would not have been enough to cause the situation in and around Estes Park right now.  The second part of Polis’ statement on the wildfire’ intensity must be taken into consideration. 

In 2019, Rocky Mountain National Park hosted 4.7 million visitors, most coming through the community of Estes Park.  The impact of human utilization of our wilderness is a significant threat, especially when regulations in place to limit harm are ignored.   

When COVID19 became a significant threat in the spring of this year, it was essential to limit the number of visitors to the national park and Estes Park’s mayor requested it be closed.   When the Park reopened in late May, NPS soon implemented a timed-entry reservation system to limit vehicles entering to numbers that were last experienced in 1996. 
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But the reservation system ended on October 12 and even before that, thousands of visitors crowded the Park after 5 p.m. (when a reservation was no longer needed) to watch the elk rut season which began in early September.

The National Park, forest service, and Estes Park has had a fire ban since August 15, yet every fire I mentioned above was believed to be caused by human activity except for the Pine Gulch Fire, which was caused by a lightning strike on July 27.  The exact causes for all of the other fires are still under investigation but the blame has been laid squarely on humans.

Estes Park lifted or downgraded evacuations in town last week but Rocky Mountain National Park and all forest service land surrounding town is closed to all access, except for firefighters. There was a caveat to lifting evacuations orders and to visitors coming back into town: “be prepared to leave at a moment’s notice.”

422 structures have been lost in the East Troublesome Fire to date; it is still unknown how many were lost in the Cameron Peak Fire.  Residents in Glen Haven and its surrounding communities were only allowed to return home yesterday. ​

There has been some progress on the containment of the two fire’s edges that directly threaten Estes Park, and visitors are being welcomed back into town. 

But without the National Park or the Forest Service to recreate in, the only choice is to visit the business establishments in town and COVID19 cases are increasing in all communities in Colorado.  

Another spell of dry, warm, and windy conditions is predicted for this coming week.

To date, the East Troublesome and Cameron Peak fires have burned 29,000 acres of RMNP - the most acreage burned in any fire or combination of fires in the same year since the Park was established more than 100 years ago.  
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If 2020 is teaching us one thing, it’s that we must always pay for our actions.  If we don’t take care of our environment, it will take care of itself. No consideration will be given to the fact that humans live here, too.  Wildfire serves to clean out the dead growth in our forests, but the extent of wildfire in northern Colorado this year is more than a warning.  It signals a significant climate shift and we must all take heed or humans will be another casualty of Nature’s wrath. 
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The following slide show features pictures of the destruction caused in RMNP by the East Troublesome Fire between Oct. 23-25. Photos courtesy of RMNP or Larimer County Sheriff (as noted):

I revel in the subalpine and alpine environments in Rocky Mountain National Park.  So with the perfect autumn weather this past week my husband and I headed out for Frozen Lake.

I note this is a cross-country hike. I would recommend be familiar with Leave No Trace ethics, be prepared with the ten essentials, have experienced hiking in uneven terrain, boulder/scree slopes, slabs, route finding and lastly do not hike off trail alone. 

Trailhead:  Glacier Gorge                                       
Round trip miles: 12
Destination elevation:  11,580  feet                                              
Trailhead elevation:  9,180 feet
 Elevation gain:  2,400 feet  ​

At mile 3, we stopped at Chasm Falls.  At this point,  the most notable fall color were much lower to the ground.

The trees were starting to lose their leaves, but the ground cover was spectacular. 

Colors below and above Chasm Falls were the most vibrant. ​

In Willow Park, young Engelman spruce and lodgepole pines thrive against the backdrop of the "grey ghosts," killed by pine beetle.  The last pine beetle infestation was unprecedented.  It began in 1996 and extended well into 2014, killing most of the established lodgepole forests in RMNP. 
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"Hard winters with cold temperatures can kill beetle eggs and larvae wintering under a tree's outer bark. Related to general climate warming, average winter temperatures in the Rocky Mountains have been higher than normal over the past ten years. Trees have also been weakened by a prolonged period of low precipitation. The combination of milder temperatures and low precipitation has aided a vast outbreak of beetles." - NPS/ROMO

After the most recent snow on October 11, both Old Fall River Road and Trail Ridge Road closed.  Trail Ridge reopened today, but it is unclear whether Old Fall River Road will again this season.  Since 2016, Old Fall River Road has closed for the season on the first Monday in October (it used to be Labor Day) but it stayed opened this year five days after that, to give firefighters access to the remote areas in the Park.

I am very grateful for this, because my mother got the birthday present she wished for.  ​

The days are getting shorter and a sunrise start for the dayhiker is much later now. As I met my hiking partner in Grand Lake, there was a definite autumn wind that was rustling the gold aspen leaves around town. A mild cool front had moved into the area the night before and there was more than a little winter nip in the air on this morning. Our destination on this crisp, blue sky day was Lake Verna, and then perhaps to some of the lakes beyond, as the shorter daylight of late September would allow.

This is an excellent trail with a lot of diverse terrain and numerous destinations at different lengths. As with many trails in the Park, this one starts wide and smooth, the short hike to Adams Falls is very popular with many of the visitors to Grand Lake. After taking the short detour off the main trail to check out the falls, the valley opens wide into the East Meadow where the East Inlet Creek meanders through before eventually flowing into the east end of Grand Lake.

We listened to the echoing sound of a bull elk bugling somewhere in the meadow, but he was no where to be seen. At this time of year, the wide creek is moving so slow that the breeze coming from Grand Lake put a ripple on the stream that made it look like it was flowing backwards, I had to give it a double look to figure out what I was seeing. Farther up the hill, we could see fall aspen leaves and pretty soon the trail led us right into the aspen grove.

This is the first of several uphill stretches on the trail. This one leads to a second possible destination 3 miles from the trailhead, some broad rock outcrops that overlooks Grand Lake at the end of the wide, glaciated U-shaped valley. 

These rock outcrops provide a nice place for a snack break or even a picnic if you wish to make this your destination. One of the things that is noticeable from here are the many dead lodgepole pines from the Pine Beetle epidemic. It is hard for me to imagine that the most significant damage occurred over 15 years ago. But I also noticed a healthy stand of trees coming up in their place. For more information, click here, here, and here.

One of the interesting parts of this trail are the pockets of large spruce forests that seem more out of the Pacific Northwest than the rocky mountains. As we walked through these beautiful sections, we were struck by a large number of very recent blow down trees, and these were big trees. 

The trail travels around the southeast shoreline of the lake before dipping briefly back into another deep and beautiful spruce forest. The trail then switchbacks up through the forest before popping out into more familiar rocky mountain terrain.

At this point, most of the elevation has been gained and before too long, the long Lake Verna suddenly comes into into view, 6.9 miles in. Verna was apparently a sweetheart of a member of the US Geological Survey (according to the book, High Country Names, 1977).

Looking up to the eastern ridge line, you can see the Boulder-Grand Pass to the left. The maintained trail ends at the beginning of the lake, but a smaller unimproved trail continues tight along the northern shoreline and on up into the valley. Two more large lakes, Spirit Lake and Fourth Lake can be found following this narrow trail, though we also encountered some new blow down to navigate around.

On our hike, we watched a couple of Bald Eagles soaring over Fourth Lake. There was also an immature Bald Eagle that flew right overhead. On this day, with the shorter days upon us, this was as far as we made it. But I have journeyed up to Fifth Lake on another hike, a beautiful but smaller alpine lake that sits right at treeline at the base of Isolation Peak.

The late day sunlight on our return gave a new look to the territory we had already seen earlier.

Dropping back into the East Meadow at dusk, we watch a young bull moose strolling across the meadow, taking a snack break when he crossed the stream. My wide angle lens didn't do much to bring that moose closer, but what a magnificent scene!

Having covered most of the distance back, we paused to watch the nearly full Harvest moon rise at sunset over Mt Craig. A beautiful hike on a beautiful day!