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Notes from the Trail

A Cross-country Hike to Frozen Lake in Rocky Mountain National Park

10/15/2020

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by Marlene Borneman
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I began at the Glacier Gorge trailhead around 6:30a.m as it was getting light. I was greeted by Colorado’s golden aspen trees. I followed the well marked trail up about a quarter of a mile to the Glacier Gorge Junction.
I revel in the subalpine and alpine environments in Rocky Mountain National Park.  So with the perfect autumn weather this past week my husband and I headed out for Frozen Lake.

I note this is a cross-country hike. I would recommend be familiar with Leave No Trace ethics, be prepared with the ten essentials, have experienced hiking in uneven terrain, boulder/scree slopes, slabs, route finding and lastly do not hike off trail alone. 

Trailhead:  Glacier Gorge                                       
Round trip miles: 12
Destination elevation:  11,580  feet                                              
Trailhead elevation:  9,180 feet
 Elevation gain:  2,400 feet  ​
I headed south passing Alberta Falls, Mills Lake, Jewel Lake and about at mile five arrived at Black Lake. Right before Black Lake came into view I enjoyed a snack at Ribbon Falls. 
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Shimmering willows
Then, I headed east up a use trail along the outlet stream with shimmering willows in the sunlight. I was careful not to slip on the slab rocks guiding the stream.  I soon topped out to a glorious view that made me dizzy… (from left going right) Longs Peak, Pagoda, Spearhead, Chiefs Head, McHenrys and Arrowhead.
There are many cairns going in different directions. But I avoided the krummholz and headed around a small tarn;  then, I skirted the north side of Spearhead following sparsely-spaced cairns. The terrain was steep, so again I paid close attention to my footing.  I found a use trail at the base of Spearhead and followed it on loose rock to the west side.  I then found myself on a little easier ground heading southwest crossing large slabs to Frozen Lake.
A white-tailed ptarmigan changing into its winter coat.
A white-tailed ptarmigan changing into its winter coat.
McHenrys Peak and Stone Man Pass make a stunning setting for Frozen Lake.
McHenrys Peak and Stone Man Pass make a stunning setting for Frozen Lake.

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    "The wild requires that we learn the terrain, nod to all the plants and animals and birds, ford the streams and cross the ridges, and tell a good story when we get back home." ~ Gary Snyder

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    I don’t like either​ the word or the thing. People ought to saunter in the mountains - not hike! Do you know the origin of the word ‘saunter?’ It’s a beautiful word. Away back in the Middle Ages people used to go on pilgrimages to the Holy Land, and when people in the villages through which they passed asked where they were going, they would reply, A la sainte terre,’ ‘To the Holy Land.’ And so they became known as sainte-terre-ers or saunterers. Now these mountains are our Holy Land, and we ought to saunter through them reverently, not ‘hike’ through them.” ~ John Muir

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  • Home
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    • Hike Rocky magazine
    • RMNP Updates
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    • Culture and Arts in the Park
    • The Continental Divide Story, 1977 by Kip Rusk
  • Trail Guide to RMNP
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