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Notes from the Trail
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 Dream Lake on a windless, perfect day in mid-January. Photo by Barb Boyer Buck Story and photos by Barb Boyer Buck A hike to Emerald Lake, that was the intention. It had lightly snowed overnight and the sky was a cloudless, cobalt blue. Most importantly, there wasn’t any wind. If you don’t know about the wind in the eastern foothills of Colorado – most notably in the valleys– well, It’s brutal. When air is forced over the Continental Divide and combines with Chinook upslope winds, the result is a cacophony of directionless and fierce wind. It’s just as crazy-making as the sound of a symphony warming up. When I was the renewable energy manager for the Town of Estes Park, my team thought perhaps wind turbines would be able to harness this crazy wind, but no. The wind comes from too many directions, is too fast (70-90 mph is not uncommon) and is never consistent. It’s either windy or it’s not, at least from October through April. I was excited to take a hike in the fresh snow with no wind. But it was a late start – we probably didn’t reach the Emerald Lake Trailhead until close to 1 p.m. I brought my snowshoes just in case, but micro-spikes and poles worked just fine. From its trailhead, Emerald Lake is 1.8 miles, so we figured we’d get there around 3 and have plenty of time to get back down before dark. It was nearly a month after Winter Solstice and the days were getting a bit longer.  Beautiful lighting, fresh snow, and fresh bunny tracks! But we were stopped quite literally in our tracks with almost every step. Snow doesn’t usually stay on the tress very long in RMNP (again, the wind) but that day, it covered every branch like fluffy icing, it sparkled in the full sun. The views along the way were spectacular and even with my cell phone, I was able to capture amazingly clear photos with great detail. This was a function of the afternoon lighting as well, which became increasingly rich as the day wore on. The Emerald Lake Trailhead is by far the most popular one in Rocky Mountain National Park, any time of the year. This day, a Tuesday in mid-January, was no exception. There were a lot less people than in the summer months, but the route was still fairly crowded.  Longs Peak, Keyboard of the Winds, Pagoda Mountain, and Thatchtop from the Emerald Lake Trail. Here’s the etiquette for passing on the trail: those traveling up have the right-of-way. This is especially important when the trail is snow packed and/or icy. Further measures to take during these COVID times is to step aside, pull up your mask (if it’s down), and turn your back to the trail. Six feet of distance is just not possible on these popular trails.  The Keyboard of the Winds and the top of Longs Peak were visible the entire way. Photo by Barb Boyer Buck But I found myself stopping many more times than I technically needed to because of the stunning sights, especially of the Keyboard of the Winds formation on the “back” side of Longs Peak. The wind I was talking about earlier can make some unearthly sounds as it passes through this jagged ridge. The trail to Emerald Lake is packed full of amazing views and destinations – if you count Bear Lake (which is just a few steps from the trailhead) you see four lakes, amazing views of Longs Peak, many other stunning peaks, and beautiful geologic formations.  A bunny convention in the waning afternoon light. The first destination along the trail is Nymph Lake. In the winter, when the lakes are frozen over “winter trails” are established at each lake which cross over the frozen waters. Be very careful when you do this – sometimes the ice is thin in places you cannot see. Make sure that every lake is completely frozen on all edges before you try to walk across it. Views of Hallet Peak, first seen over Bear Lake, were now joined with the spires of Flattop Mountain.  The trail to Dream Lake A bit further up, and you reach Dream Lake with more stunning views of these features. Other things we noticed at Dream Lake were the limber pines (colloquially, twisted pines). These trees are actually shaped by the wind as they grow, and they are some of the oldest living organisms on earth. Some limber pines in RMNP date back over 1,000 years, according to a report by several federal forestry agencies, “Limber Pine Conservation in Rocky Mountain National Park,” published in 2013. At this point on our hike, the sun was setting – as it sank over the peaks shading Dream Lake, a final alpenglow lit the scene in a spectacular way.  Limber pines are shaped by the fierce winds in exposed areas such as Dream Lake. These are the oldest living organisms in RMNP. Emerald Lake was not to be, not that day. But it’s days like that which make me glad to be alive. For me, rushing past the gifts of Nature, especially when they were laid out so beautifully for us to experience, is unforgivable. Emerald Lake isn’t going anywhere, and neither am I.  This Narnia-like scene was just before we reached Dream Lake.
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"The wild requires that we learn the terrain, nod to all the plants and animals and birds, ford the streams and cross the ridges, and tell a good story when we get back home." ~ Gary Snyder
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“Hiking -I don’t like either the word or the thing. People ought to saunter in the mountains - not hike! Do you know the origin of the word ‘saunter?’ It’s a beautiful word. Away back in the Middle Ages people used to go on pilgrimages to the Holy Land, and when people in the villages through which they passed asked where they were going, they would reply, A la sainte terre,’ ‘To the Holy Land.’ And so they became known as sainte-terre-ers or saunterers. Now these mountains are our Holy Land, and we ought to saunter through them reverently, not ‘hike’ through them.” ~ John Muir 
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