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Notes from the
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Trail

Waterfall Season in Rocky Mountain National Park

5/29/2019

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While I am always excited to see a place for the first time, attain a new summit or fish in a lake I’ve never visited, spring is the time of year to find comfort in the familiar; to return to the trails we’ve hiked dozens, if not hundreds of times.  What a gift it is to revisit a favorite tree or boulder, to note the ever-melting snow drifts and enjoy the spring wildflowers as they begin to bloom seemingly one species at a time.
Wild Basin is my favorite place on the planet, and I’m not shy about my love for this magical spot.  My first visit to Ouzel Falls this season almost brought me to tears.  In the summer, I tend to skip the waterfall altogether, opting for the shortcut campsite trail on my way to some obscure peak above Thunder Lake.  Ouzel Falls is certainly a worthy destination any time of year, but it is especially spectacular in the ​spring and early summer, or as I like to call it, ‘Waterfall Season.’  ​
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After the flood of 2013, the NPS put in a beautiful new bridge below the falls to replace the one that was washed away.  I see a lot of folks admiring Ouzel Falls from this vantage point.  It’s a lovely view, but an extra couple of minutes of rock-hopping and ducking under tree limbs will take you right up to the base of the falls. Regardless of what else may be going on in my life, any day I get to feel the spray of a waterfall is a pretty good day.

Once the snow melts out, hikers can continue on an unmarked trail up to the big beautiful valley through which Ouzel Creek meanders before plummeting 40 feet and joining the North Saint Vrain Creek.  This valley, which lies within the scar of the Ouzel Burn of 1978, is a lovely place to spend an afternoon fly fishing for small brook trout or simply enjoying the sounds of the gurgling creek while Ouzel Peak towers above you in the distance.  Like me, the young aspens and fireweed in this area got their start on this beautiful planet during the summer of 1979.

Nature presents us with many silent metaphors.  The juxtaposition of charred trees and wildflowers reminds us that what appears completely void of life can be reborn.  Calypso Orchids alongside a trail carpeted in last year’s dead aspen leaves give hope that that which appears to be completely void of life may be just moments from blooming.  May we embrace this season of renewal and awakening with gratitude for the quiet lessons from Mother Earth.

This is the season to return to return to the places that have greeted us year after year.  Spring is a wonderful time to rediscover the lower elevation hikes in RMNP while reflecting on the past year and looking forward to the one that lies ahead.  In addition to Ouzel Falls, my favorite spring hikes include Fern Falls, Bridal Veil Falls, West Creek Falls and MacGregor Falls.  Mount Lady Washington is a lovely (although much more strenuous) springtime favorite at 13,281’.

While the high peaks remain guarded by the lingering snow, I choose to embrace the springtime and its gifts, knowing that the season to stand atop summit after summit is just around the corner.
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“Hope is not born on mountain tops, but in valleys when you’re looking to the heights and peaks that you’ve yet to climb.”

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The Trail to the Pool/Fern Falls in Rocky Mountain National Park

5/17/2019

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Alpine Spring Beauty
It's time for Ask Dr. Day Hikes:
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Dear RMDH,
Hi! Do you know if flowers are starting to bloom along the Fern Lake Trail?
ML KD

Thanks for the question ML KD!

The trail is definitely hike ready to The Pool and up to Fern Falls. Flowers are just starting to bloom along the lower section of the Fern Lake trail. I saw a few patches of Alpine Spring Beauties and the yellow Hollygrape mostly (and dandelions). And the aspens are starting to leaf out. 

As I drove into Moraine Park, I could see that the upper Big Thompson River had swelled to the top of the river banks from spring runoff, but has yet to flood the meadow. I also noticed that the parking at the Cub Lake trailhead was full at mid-day. mid-week in mid-May. The road to the Fern Lake trailhead was open and the parking lot there was full as well. 

As the photos below show, the trail to The Pool was snow free and dry, though not entirely runoff free. There were only a few snow patches of snow approaching Fern Falls and the Falls only had snow along the edges.

I did not hike to Fern Lake but hikers coming sown said there was still a packed snow trail to the Lake and about knee deep snow if you stepped off the snow trail. 
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Lower Fern Lake trail
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Lower Fern Lake trail
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Mourning Cloak Butterfly
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Big Thompson River along the lower Fern Lake trail
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Gabletop Mtn viewed from the lower Fern Lake trail
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Spring runoff on the lower Fern Lake trail
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Flowering Creeping Hollygrape
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Windy Gulch Cascades along the lower Fern Lake trail
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Flowering willows along the lower Fern Lake trail
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Signs of bouldering along the lower Fern Lake trail
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Signs of the 2012 Fern Lake fire
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Fern lake trail approaching Fern Falls
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Fern Falls
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MY BEGINNING OF THE FINAL THREE

5/15/2019

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Here is my introduction to Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado’s Crown Jewel.  Spending time in Rocky has brought to me not only the world of climbing but the world of wildflowers.  I have immensely enjoyed learning and expanding my knowledge of Rocky Mountain Wildflowers and had the honor of the Colorado Mountain Club to publish three pack guides I authored. The Alpine Flowers pack guide will be available in March, 2019.  You never know how spending time in Rocky Mountain National Park will change your life forever!  

MY BEGINNING OF THE FINAL THREE  
​      

It began innocently enough in 1974.  That is when I came to Colorado for a summer job at the YMCA of The Rockies in Estes Park.   I arrived from New Orleans, yes below sea level, in mid-May that year.   Being a proper southern young lady I wanted to make a good impression on my new employer.  I had worn a sleeveless silk dress, rather short as I recall, stockings and the cutest little heeled sandals you ever laid eyes on.  It was approximately 30 degrees and spitting snow. I must tell you, my arrival ended up to be one of the scariest days of my young life.  I recall saying to myself, “I have made a terrible mistake!” ​
Once over the cultural shock, I settled into the rhythm of working and learning about this phenomenon called “hiking”. I was fortunate to meet Dick Chuttke.  He was a retired gentleman, a YMCA member, and a Colorado Mountain Club member who enjoyed hiking with the Y groups.      He became my climbing mentor for the next 20+ years. He taught me how to climb fast and careful at the same time ​and instilled in me the ethics of Leave No Trace before it was a common phrase.
Hayden Spire
Hayden Spire
From a short silk dress to summits, my progression came fast.  By the end of that summer I had climbed most of the major peaks in Rocky Mountain National Park.  Having graduated from college, I decided to stay in Colorado.  You might say the rest is history, but it was not that simple. 
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I lived in Estes Park for twelve years and climbed in Rocky year-round. I found myself focused on the major peaks, different routes with a few new peaks thrown in once in awhile.  Then came a career move away from Colorado and my beloved mountains. To say I began grieving would be an understatement.   I made the effort to spend a lot of my summers back in Rocky with “my” familiar peaks.  In 2001, I returned to live full time again in Estes Park.  Dorothy may have been on to something, “There is no place like home.”

After completing the 54 Fouteeners in 2005, I was hit with a pain of guilt.  I imagine you all know what it’s like to ignore a friendship.  This was worse; it was like neglecting your own husband.   After all, Rocky Mountain National Park was now my backyard!  I began to rekindle my relationship with Rocky, started studying the map with new interest and curiosity.
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Pilot Mountain
Pilot Mountain
When you get down to it, though 35 years had passed, Dick’s  spirit motivated me to complete the 126 named summits in Colorado’s crown jewel.   This was the mission I needed to turn neglect into passion.
​

First, I carefully laid out the list.  There were 35 peaks I hadn’t yet  climbed. By the summer of 2009, I had only three to go.
Then, reality struck me hard.  THE FINAL THREE were The Sharkstooth, Hayden Spire  (both Class 5 technical climbs) and Pilot Mountain a difficult Class 4 climb.   Had I set myself up for this?  Shouldn’t the last peak be easy,  like Estes Cone or Twin Sisters?   I hadn’t climbed anything beyond Class 4 in years.

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I came to the realization that THE FINAL THREE were meant to be my grand finale. I needed a challenge; I wanted a challenge! I needed to gain my confidence back on the rope; I needed a plan. It sounds like I needed a lot!
​

The Sharkstooth was the first of my FINAL THREE.   My climbing partner and I left the parking lot at 3:45a.m.   I once read that eighty percent of success is just showing up, I liked my chances.
In past years I had gazed upon The Sharkstooth countless times, from various points, and not once contemplated climbing it.  Most anyone that sees this spire knows it is an intimidating presence.  Now, here I was actually moving toward it with the intent to clImb this fang of a rock.  I kept walking.  Things were going smooth until the crux:  a wall of 60 feet, extremely exposed.  I found myself looking at this wall, caught up in my own world, for an endless amount of time.  Finally, I took a deep breath, let it out slowly.  I knew I needed to move quickly; no hesitation, just go.  I stepped out onto the wall and got my fingers into the crack - trusting my climbing shoes to hold on what seemed to be nothing - and scampered up.  By the time we summited I was sweating like a pig.  Good thing I had given up that silk dress!   ​
The Sharkstooth
The Sharkstooth
As I climbed toward the summit tears were in my eyes.  This was what it was about:  I hadn’t gotten here because of a list, but because I had taken on the challenge of exploring the new.   For me this comes with great joy, satisfaction and fulfillment.  

Next was Pilot Mountain, which thinking back, I over rated the difficulty.  It was a fun Class 4 climb in Wild Basin. The ridge out to the summit is awesome and the view of Falcon Lake from the summit breath-taking!

The last of the FINAL THREE was Hayden Spire.  I had admired this peak from afar for decades, now I was coming close to standing on the summit.
Marlene climbing on Hayden Spire
Marlene climbing on Hayden Spire
As it turned out, this was my most challenging climb in Rocky. Hayden Spire is one of the most remote and aesthetic peaks in Rocky.  For the first time I laid eyes on Lonesome Lake and Hayden Lake, had a close up view of  the layers of Hayden Spire  which can only be seen from the face, and got a real sense of place.  The “cave” was most memorable.    I reached the summit with a smile (ear to ear) on my face. ​
Reflecting on THE FINAL THREE, I will forever remember the air beneath my feet, the sudden flight and song of finches above my head, the sense of inner relaxation and burst of excitement at the same moment and the incredible sound of the silence around me.   

THE FINAL THREE was my way of remembering Dick’s 20+ year companionship on these peaks.  In the mountaineering world this is a speck.  But it is my speck in my world and I am grateful for the opportunity to hold it in my heart.

You may ask, is there anything left of that southern girl from 1974? I like to think so. My father was a riverboat captain; he lived with patience, endurance and perseverance. I like to think I gained these traits from him.
 

And, oh yes, I still love wearing silk dresses (a little longer now) and cute heeled sandals. ​

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Marlene Borneman

5/14/2019

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Marlene has been photographing Colorado’s wildflowers while on her hiking and climbing adventures since 1974.  She soon developed a deep interest to learn more about the botany behind their beautiful faces.  She has participated in informal and formal studies and extensive fieldwork to further her knowledge and understanding of Colorado’s rich and diverse flora.  ​She has earned her Native Plant Master Certification. ​
Marlene has climbed Colorado’s 54 14ers, the 126 USGS named peaks in Rocky Mountain National Park and 44 State High Points.  She has been a member of the Colorado Mountain Club since 1979 and is a member of the Colorado Native Plant Society.  She teaches wildflower classes for the Rocky Mountain Conservancy and provides community programs to educate and promote stewardship for Colorado’s wildflowers. Marlene holds a Masters Degree in Social Work and a Certification in  Addiction Counseling.   She guides in Rocky Mountain National Park and enjoys sharing the scenery as well as her knowledge of the plant life and habitats the park has to offer.  She is the author of Rocky Mountain Wildflowers 2Ed. and The Best Front Range Wildflower Hikes, and Rocky Mountain Alpine Flowers,  published by CMC Press.  ​
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Description:  
​Rocky Mountain Alpine Flowers
In summer Colorado’s alpine tundra becomes a dazzling landscape with stunning alpine wildflowers. These fragile, yet hardy plants grow in the harsh environment above treeline, but these wildflowers make the most of the short growing season.  Rocky Mountain Alpine Flowers pack guide covers more than 100 of the most common as well as some rare wildflowers found in the alpine.  Detailed photos are arranged by color for quick and easy reference.   This compact pack guide is a must for hikers and backpackers in the high country for help in identifying these beautiful alpine plants. Order Here
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Description:  
​​Rocky Mountain Wildflowers 2Ed.  
This beautiful pack guide features 180 of the most common wildflowers in Colorado, from the Plains to the Alpine life zones.  Revised with latest scientific classifications, it includes information on life zones, habitats, characteristics of each flower, and blooming times to help with identification. The 220 photos are arranged by color for quick and easy reference.  This is a must-have book on Colorado’s trails and a superb educational tool for all ages.  Order Here
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A Hike to Calypso Cascades and Ouzel Falls in Rocky Mountain National Park

5/6/2019

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There's good hiking snow free at Wild Basin for a few miles, but only because the road to the Wild Basin trailhead is closed a mile before. That didn't stop an overflow parking lot of people from getting out on Sunday, people are anxious to get hiking. And the trail is mostly snow free and not terribly muddy up to Lower Copeland Falls. After that, it's a mix but drying out, up to the bridge over the North St. Vrain River. The river if also snow free up to that point, but only starting to swell with spring runoff. However, the final uphill stretch after the bridge quickly becomes snow covered, and it's slick going from there on. 
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Where the hike begins
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Only a few snow patches on the lower portion of the trail
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Wild Basin trailhead
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Snow level at Calypso Cascades
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Slick snow path
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Calypso Cascades
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Ouzel Falls
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A Hike on Deer Mountain in Rocky Mountain National Park

5/5/2019

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The lower portion of the Deer Mtn trail is in great shape. But once in the trees, there was plenty of snow coverage, and it was slick. The legs are tense all the way up and down trying to stay upright. Once on the flat top portion, before the final summit push, the snowshoer from the last snow couldn't find the trail. So there are all kinds of people following the wanderings of this semi lost snowshoer, and as the the snow melts, people are walking over vegetation and postholing at fallen logs. But the wayward snow trail does eventually make it's way to the summit.
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Hikers on the lower portion of the Deer Mtn trail, with part of The Mummy Range in view.
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The snow is quickly melting off the lower portion of this trail and enjoyable for walking.
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This trail offer some great views of the Mummy Range and Horseshoe Park. The weather on this part of the Park looks fantastic.
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There are also fantastic views of The Front Range and Moraine Park. The weather looking this way looks ominous.
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The aspens on the lower part of the trail are mostly done flowering and will soon leaf out. Mt Chapin provides a splendid backdrop.
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The snow trail that everyone follows on the top does not follow the main trail, which remains snow covered.
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Once the trail enters the trees, the trail is snow covered.
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The summit, with Tobias Beer, who has been traveling around North America in a van for the last year.
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The dramatic clouds that was forming on the Continental Divide would occasionally give birth to isolated snow showers which would sweep east.
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Hiking the Cub Lake Trail in Rocky Mountain National Park

5/3/2019

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The Cub Lake trail starts as one of the lower elevation trails and a good one to hike early in the season. The trail yesterday was not really ready for hiking just yet. There were a few hike ready dry spots, but most of the trail was filled with spring run off and it was a trick navigating and rock hopping to stay out of the wet spots.
Please be sure to click on an image to see it larger.
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The trail was almost free of snow, but is now replaced with large mud patches. This is at the start of the trail.
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There were lots of alternative trails being because the main trail was covered with wet stuff.
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Spring streams were flowing everywhere and much of the ground was sopping wet. Just below the beaver ponds.
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Reflection at the Beaver Ponds.
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Sagebrush Buttercup
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The stream cut on the trail in the aspens.
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A switchback in the aspens was still snow covered.
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Cub Lake. With the lack of tree cover due to the 2012 Fern Lake fire, the snow will melt much faster here.
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Moraine Park. Most of the meadow is saturated with spring runoff.
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    "The wild requires that we learn the terrain, nod to all the plants and animals and birds, ford the streams and cross the ridges, and tell a good story when we get back home." ~ Gary Snyder

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    “Hiking - 

    I don’t like either​ the word or the thing. People ought to saunter in the mountains - not hike! Do you know the origin of the word ‘saunter?’ It’s a beautiful word. Away back in the Middle Ages people used to go on pilgrimages to the Holy Land, and when people in the villages through which they passed asked where they were going, they would reply, A la sainte terre,’ ‘To the Holy Land.’ And so they became known as sainte-terre-ers or saunterers. Now these mountains are our Holy Land, and we ought to saunter through them reverently, not ‘hike’ through them.” ~ John Muir

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