To Gem Lake via the Cow Creek Trail

Gem Lake on November 9, 2021

story, photos, and video by Jason Miller

I have hiked up to Gem Lake via Lumpy Ridge Trailhead many times in the past years and highly recommend doing it. This time, we started deep within the McGraw Ranch and ended up at this iconic spot atop of Lumpy Ridge. We came across grasslands, rivers, forest, mountains, but very few people. This hike is a MUST DO!
 
We began the morning with my son driving his car and me following behind him. We parked his car at the parking lot of Twin Owls and Gem Lake Trailheads. We then took a picture of our beginning point and jumped in my car to head toward McGraw Ranch. We got

mentally prepared for our adventure of the day with a little coffee, breakfast snack, and some good music.
Music, It does the soul some good. When pulling onto McGraw Ranch Road, realize that this is a residential area and that these are private homes. Drive slowly and respect the area residents that call this home. The parking area is located 2 miles from Devils Gulch Road. and is located at the end of the road alongside in designated areas. Once parked, we were on our way.

Access to the Cow Creek Trail is at the end of a private residential road.

The old McGraw Guest Ranch is located at the trailhead. There used to be 25 buildings and five of those dated back to 1884. This opened as a dude ranch

in 1936 for the enthusiastic adventurist. It specialized in trail rides, fishing, cookouts, and even square dancing. We walked past a few old buildings where all the fun used to be had and started down the trail.

On the Cow Creek Trail.

It starts off as an easygoing, flat hike. Vast, grassy meadows all around you remind you of the fall wildflower beauty. After walking through 1.2 miles of the grasslands you come to a fork in the trail. If you would go right, it takes you to Bridal Veil Falls (2 mi) or Lawn Lake (8 mi).
 
We chose to go left. Gem Lake is 2.8 miles ahead. Jakob's car is 4.5 miles. From here it gets a little more challenging. We traversed downhill a little and crossed a river. I love crossing on the cut logs, makes me feel like a kid. Crossing the river means that the incline begins. Heart pumping and legs burning are normal for me. I have hiked up to Gem Lake many times but not on this trail.

During this awesome time in the wilderness, you will experience all sorts of terrain from large meadows to heavily populated forest areas. I have always wanted to go on this trail, and it is super serene. There is not ​major rock scrambling on this hike, but the listed elevation gains and losses do not do it justice. There are a lot of ups and downs.

​After 1.5 hours of speed walking, we made it to Gem Lake. This is the first time we have seen people today. It is a small lake at the top of Lumpy Ridge surrounded by large boulders and rocks. I could not see any fish in it but if you are going to fish in the RMNP, make sure to read up on rules: have a fishing license and catch and release. Please help our fish population.

​There are great shady areas all around the lake to find a nice resting area. We sat down to eat lunch and drink some water. After 15 minutes, we continued down the mountain. It is 1.8 miles to the parking lot. Not too long after we started our descent, we came across a privy. If you need to use the toilet in the wilderness this is one of the best views out there. Traversing down a little farther and we came to Paul Bunyan's Boot: a large rock feature that looks like a boot with a hole in it. A polaroid moment. Many different spots on the way down proved to be great photo spots. Views of the snowcapped Rockies and the Estes Valley in the distance make for another spectacular photo. Some people enjoy hiking in silence, others find it enjoyable to wear headphones; whatever you like just make sure that you do not create noise pollution. Please don't carry in a boom box.

At Gem Lake

We made it down to the Gem Lake trailhead within 3 hours of starting the hike. When I hike with my son, he tends to walk faster as we go farther. I highly recommend getting outside with family and friends. It is a great time to catch up on life challenges and reconnect with your loved ones.
 
Sometimes just being together in silence is one of the best feelings in the world. Remember this time of year to dress in layers. It may start off cold but could turn warm and end up cold again. GET OUTSIDE!

Views of the Estes Valley on the way down from Gem Lake

Jason Miller, 49, is a resident of Glen Haven and is married with two children. Before moving to the area, he used to work as broker for Nestle USA and H.P. Hood milk company. Today, he is the owner of The Rustic Acre (vacation rentals in Estes Park) and co-owner of Lightbrush Projections.

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Snowy Peaks Winery of Estes Park made possible the publication of this article.