Old Fall River Road: a classic summer driving tour of Rocky

Photos and story by Barb Boyer Buck

Right around July 4 every year, Old Fall River Road opens for the season. It's a very short season for this “motor nature trail,” so I encourage everyone to try it at least once before it closes in early October. It's my favorite driving tour in Rocky and every visitor I've hosted has accompanied me on this drive.
 
Old Fall River Road starts in Endovalley, just west of the Alluvial Fan. It's 11 miles of gravel road going up a 16% grade with many switchbacks to reach the back parking lot of the Alpine Visitor's Center on Trail Ridge Road.
Thus, this is a very slow drive, especially if you take advantage of the many opportunities to pull off the road and explore (which I do). This tour is perfect for those with low mobility who would nevertheless like to see the best of what Rocky Mountain National Park has to offer. Wildlife, waterfalls, wildflowers, and stunning scenery greet you the entire way driving up this road.

View from the first pull-out on Old Fall River Road

Since this is a one-way one-lane road, going up (you'll have to come back down via Trail Ridge Road), there are several things to keep in mind. First, be sure you have a full tank of gas. You'll not be able to go any faster than 10 mph (the speed limit is 15, but I've never achieved that), and many times, you will be stuck when motorists in front of you stop to take pictures or view wildlife. Secondly, make sure your vehicle can handle rough terrain during changing weather conditions. The road is maintained, but often has large ruts, can be icy and/or wet, and is quite narrow. Vehicles over 25 feet long and/or those pulling trailers are not allowed to travel this road. I have personally seen very large vehicles have trouble with the winding nature of Old Fall River Road.
 
You'll need to conquer any fear of heights you may have – there are no guardrails on this road and several, very steep drop-offs – the driver needs to pay close attention and not be distracted by the sights and sounds of this beautiful drive. Along the way, you will gain more than 3,000 feet in elevation before you end up at the Alpine Visitor's Center which sits at 11,796 feet above sea level. Doing anything at this elevation may be dangerous for those with heart conditions and everyone needs to be aware of other dangers such as elevation sickness, lightening, sunburn, and dehydration. Be sure to visit RMNP's safety page before heading out with anyone who may be affected by the elevation and conditions. The good news is, with proper preparation most people will be able to see some of the highest reaches and most beautiful mountainous terrain in the entire state!

Wildflowers along Old Fall River Road

The first stop for me is always at the pull-out during the first switchbacks along the road. From here, you can look back to Horseshoe Park. Next comes the pull-out for Chasm Falls. This involves a very short – but steep – walk down to the bottom of this glorious waterfall to properly view it. When Fall River Road is closed, you can hike up and back to this beautiful feature in less than three miles; just park in Endovalley and hike up.
 
From there, continue on up and take advantage of the many pull-outs to explore the immediate surroundings. You will be moving through the montane, sub-alpine, and alpine life zones in Rocky and with the elevation gain you can witness the changing ecology of this vibrant mountainous terrain. The road is so narrow that even if you don't want to (or are unable to) leave the car, you can roll down the windows and be close enough to brush the leaves as you drive by!

Wildflowers near Fall River

One of the many waterfalls caused by melting snow off Old Fall River Road

For avid hikers, this road gives access to the Chapin Creek Trail, 3.9 miles through wetlands and meadows, with stunning views of the Continental Divide. There is also an option to continue on to “all summits”: Chapin, Ypsilon, and Chiquita, which is a much more difficult hike (and one I've yet to attempt!).

Chasm Falls off Old Fall River Road

Soon after the trailhead pullout, Old Fall River Road emerges into alpine tundra. Ahead, you begin to see the back side of the visitor's center and all around you, you see a thriving ecosystem boasting of tiny wildflowers, numerous wildlife, and rolling hills of treeless expanse. This landscape is extremely delicate and walking on the tundra is expressly forbidden. The drop-offs along this stretch are even more steep than what was encountered previously on this road, so don't pull out of traffic unless you are sure it's a designated spot to do so!

​After reaching the Alpine Visitor’s Center, you have several choices. You can stop and get lunch there (but no gas, but that's OK because you filled up before you left, right?), shop for some souvenirs, and original Native American art, or visit the interpretive center to learn more about Rocky's tundra ecosystem. This is also a popular bathroom stop.

The Alpine Visitor's Center looms above bull elk grazing off Old Fall River Road

When you leave the Alpine Visitor’s Center parking lot to access Trail Ridge Road, you can turn left to descend into the east side of Rocky and back to Estes Park, or, you can turn right to continue to its west side and the remarkable Kawuneeche Valley. Through this valley runs the Colorado River, its headwaters originating in the high reaches of Rocky. Several trails, including handicapped-accessible ones, picnic spots, and pull- outs offer great views of the markedly different landscape on this side of the Park. The west side of the Continental Divide tends to be more lush and boasts of a stunning variety of wildflowers you may not find on the east side. There's also a good chance you will see moose in this habitat, especially in the late afternoon.

​If you continue on Trail Ridge Road through the Kawuneeche Valley toward Grand Lake, you will witness the devastating destruction caused by the East Troublesome Fire in October, 2020. In places, the soil became activated and wildflowers proliferate. But you will also see areas where the top soil was completely destroyed by the raging inferno and nothing remains except tree trunks, bare of all branches and needles.

A marmot as seen from the vehicle while driving on Old Fall River Road

I always continue into Grand Lake, a quaint small town on the shores of Colorado's largest natural lake. Some reservoirs, like Lake Granby, are much larger, but this was a sacred place for the Native Americans who first traveled up what is now Old Fall River Road to hunt in the area.

Old Fall River Road was completed in 1920 and ushered in the motorizing era of visitation. The grand old lodges where people came to spend the summer and recreate in the lower reaches of Rocky were eventually torn ​down and replaced with parking lots, pull-outs, campsites, and picnic tables. The communities of Estes Park and Grand Lake opted for more motels as Rocky began to cater to the road-trip traveler.
 
Pro tips:

• Didn't get a reservation to get into the Park? That's OK – just get in the gates before 9 a.m. and leave Grand Lake after 3 p.m. The longer trip into the west side I described above can be accessed during these times without a reservation. However, a NPS pass, or a daily/weekly pass, is required.

 

• Bring lots of layers: it could be hot at 8,500 feet but when you get to the top, it could be snowing! Layers allow you to put on and shed clothing as needed.

 

• Water, food, and electrolytes are all things you'll want to bring with you as well as a hat, sunglasses, bug spray, and sun screen.

 

• Take your time up Old Fall River Road and roll down all your windows, it's a glorious experience!

Barb Boyer Buck is the managing editor of HIKE ROCKY magazine. She is a professional journalist, photographer, editor and playwright. In 2014 and 2015, she wrote and directed two original plays about Estes Park and Rocky Mountain National Park, to honor the Park’s 100th anniversary. Barb lives in Estes Park with her cat, Percy.

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The publication of this work of independent and local journalism was made possible by McGregor Mountain Lodge and Backbone Adventures, both in Estes Park.